Lanson's 2013 Ford Flex SEL (non Sony) audio build

[Lanson]

I don't have in-progress pics of the next stuff I did, but I do have "before" and "after" shots. The sawdust was flying and I didn't want to damage my dslr.

This is my subwoofer box, transplanted from my 2010 build now to my 2013. Under here is a fair amount of Raammat deadening and some foam to hold it all in place. That vinyl you see there matches the upper interior plastics and the headliner color, to tie in the look. The box build was covered in another thread somewhere in another forum long ago, but I can dig it up if anybody happens to be curious. Basically its just your average spare tire well fiberglass subwoofer box, this one has Exile Audio shallow subs. The box is damn thick and very strong.


I decided build a reinforced grille, something much more robust than my previous one in the 2010, which was damaged by some heavy suitcases during a trip. In that one I used some expanded metal available at Lowes in a 12"x24" rectangle. Despite it being pretty strong stuff and the fact I made a grille with a small opening and reinforcement underneath to hold it, it eventually gave way and bent inward one day, almost damaging the subs underneath. This time I decided to use Lowes again, but I went with 1/2" steel square tubing. This time, the grille will be able to take some weight!

I made a top board to match the contours of the trunk. BTW during this process I had to hack up the back plastic trunk panel up some, but this panel is cheap to replace when I return to stock. The hacking was done below the line visible with the trunk liner installed anyway.

I made the top board in the shape of the trunk, about 24" deep by 41 1/2" wide (with 3/4" MDF) and then used my router with a 1/2" standard bit to create grooves just a tick over 1/2" deep on the underside of this panel, spaced 1 " from each other for a total of 6. These grooves let the 1/2" square steel tubing slip right in. I then beveled the backside of the entire panel so it would sit better against the curved floorboard edges, and carpeted it to match

I spray painted the tubing with primer, then black, then clear to get a decent shine on them. It isn't show car paint quality, but it works well in the trunk. This tubing was then inserted into the grooves, with the carpet carefully cut where the openings are so it all went in securely and completely.

Then I created a back spacer panel to go under this, and beveled it as well. This spacer panel is 3/4" MDF and it was cut in a rectangle (with curved inner edges) to fit right over the subwoofers and grip their edges. Because the spacer panel is just the right height and shape, the top board when attached to the spacer locks itself in position against the subs themselves. It received carpet in a lighter color for contrast, and then was secured with 1 1/4" screws through to the top panel, thereby locking in the tubes so they won't fall out from underneath.

Sorry for all the explanation without pics but my DSLR just is too good to get sawdust in it. I may have to buy a crap camera just for adventures like this. Anyway, here's the finished pics:




You can see the spacer panel is covered in lighter gray carpet. That's the one that grips the edges of the subs top and bottom, and allows a little movement left and right for positioning purposes. This panel makes contact with the sub box and since it is attached to the top board, the top board is secure and won't slide. Overall, I'm happy with this design, and while at first I wanted to cover the subs completely, I feel this open design is more appropriate for its sturdiness. Those bars are incredibly strong. I didn't want to damage the fresh paint on the bars but I would wager I could stand on them and hop in the trunk if I wanted to. I'm sure this time around the only damage I could sustain could be some paint scrapes. For that reason, I made sure the top panel and spacer board could be taken apart to pull the bars and repair their paint, if ever I need to.

Next up, I need to order more deadening supplies and get to the doors and center speakers for upgrades. No rush though, the stock stuff is not bad.

We were at 14 hours before today, and this took 12 hours to get through, so 26 hours now.

[Keele81]

Really like the square steel used as a grill, beefy. It's a nice alternative to expanded steel

[Lanson]

Really like the square steel used as a grill, beefy. It's a nice alternative to expanded steel

I doubt I'll use expanded steel again after my experiences with it. Also, it cuts fingers really bad on the edges. For the money you pay for it, you'd expect it to be stronger I think. Those bars were ~$5 each, and just by the length I needed which was 28", I had to get 6. So that's $30 but at least its there pretty much forever or until I get bored. I also considered aluminum but the U channel and even square tubing like the type I have here in steel, they just couldn't take much weight before bending to a point where I didn't feel comfortable. I would have preferred aluminum for the look, because I could have brushed it and cleared it with a satin. Just not strong enough for this app.



Next up for this build is deadening the doors and stuff, and getting some new speakers in all around.

[astrochex]

How much clearance do you have between the tops of the amps and the seat frames? It looks like a snug fit.

[Lanson]

How much clearance do you have between the tops of the amps and the seat frames? It looks like a snug fit.

Tons of room under there. The seat frame sits really tall on these Flexes. It also doesn't move at all, so there's no chance of crushing or anything. I had to shove the rear vent up and little bit, but that's the only "clearancing" required here.

[Keele81]

I doubt I'll use expanded steel again after my experiences with it. Also, it cuts fingers really bad on the edges. For the money you pay for it, you'd expect it to be stronger I think. Those bars were ~$5 each, and just by the length I needed which was 28", I had to get 6. So that's $30 but at least its there pretty much forever or until I get bored. I also considered aluminum but the U channel and even square tubing like the type I have here in steel, they just couldn't take much weight before bending to a point where I didn't feel comfortable. I would have preferred aluminum for the look, because I could have brushed it and cleared it with a satin. Just not strong enough for this app.



Next up for this build is deadening the doors and stuff, and getting some new speakers in all around.

I'd drawn up a similar idea, only using plexi painted on 3 sides & scuffed on the side facing the subs, end lit with clear leds.