Thanks everyone for the insights and info. It never ceases to amaze me how much info you guys can provide, and how willing you are to share it. I am gaining confidence every time I ask a question.
Thanks everyone for the insights and info. It never ceases to amaze me how much info you guys can provide, and how willing you are to share it. I am gaining confidence every time I ask a question.
My car gets kinda loud, lol. I've got a 60×4 on my mids and tweets......ok, it may be a bit under rated, but the point I'm trying to make is massive overkill power is a luxury, not a requirement. Your 90 watts should be plenty to drive any speaker short of a sub to its mechanical or thermal limits, and still have some left over.
I have found in all 3 of my stock location, for one person, 2 way front setups that I have to apply more power in certain bandwidths to the driver's side due to the dispersion characteristics of the speaker and location. Of course I never really tell people this because it would lead to an argument online but that's the way she blows, and measures.
The midbass is so balled up in the floorboards I rarely can tell a L/R bias unless something is rather wrong.. The wavelength of 80 cycles is 14 feet long.
Balled up, hmm, maybe, the audible part of it wasn't clear......just sounded wonky and caused the lower midbass to want to hover below the dash under the rest of the stage. The mic clearly showed serious discrepancies in levels right at 80hz. Massive cutting of the passenger driver, and some mild boosting of the closer door helped the audible response dramatically, and gave the midbass a better sense of depth, as well as an apparent increase in height of the lower midbass frequencies........
Clay and Chad, are you guys now talking about the midbass cancelling because of aiming, or too many frequencies reflecting around in the cabin of the vehicle? Is that why there are issues at certain frequencies?