5 Attachment(s)
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
The Porsche Macan center channel is a 2.5" driver with a 3.5" oversized flange.
Attachment 10534
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Here is what it looks like both sides
Attachment 10537Attachment 10538
Extracting dimensions I can think of numerous aftermarket replacement drivers. For the time being I am considering the 4 ohm version of the ScanSpeak 10M. Keep following to see how this works.
Other aftermarket solutions by HAT, FROG, BRAX, and others would also work. But at their cost to performance ratio is unacceptable to me. I enjoy this hobby. But have a realistic budget to consider.
Ge0
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
I plan to use the same mid-range drivers for the center channel and doors. Here are a few of the early highly rated contenders that have me interested:
https://www.macanforum.com/attachmen...e36bd2fa0e10f7
https://www.macanforum.com/attachmen...e36bd2fa0e10f7
https://www.macanforum.com/attachmen...e36bd2fa0e10f7
https://www.macanforum.com/attachmen...e36bd2fa0e10f7
https://www.macanforum.com/attachmen...e36bd2fa0e10f7
Shameless plug to a friends website since I snagged a few images from him :)
I'm hoping to order the ScanSpeaks by the end of the week. I'll let you know how this turns out. The Eaton's are an 8 ohm driver. While very efficient they may not draw enough power from an amplifier channel to properly level match with the rest of the system. I may need to hold off on buying these until I have a higher power aftermarket amplifier in place.
Ge0
10 Attachment(s)
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
Time to tear into the front doors. Let's see what we can do with these:
You need to start by removing a few trim pieces to access retention bolts.
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Under these trim pieces you will find 3 Torx head screws you need to remove:
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After you clear this just lift up on the door panel. It will slide up about 1 inch and then pull away.
You will need to make 3 disconnections. The door handle wire pull and two electrical connectors. I could not take pictures of this because it required two hands.
The door handle pull is a little tricky. You need to push two long white retaining clips outwards while pulling the white connector towards the back of the door.
The electrical connectors are easy. The first that plugs into the Continental Door Zone Module has a pink lever. Flip it to the left towards the front of the door and it will release.
The second electrical connector you need to pinch two tabs inwards while pulling the connector left towards the front of the door. The door panel is now free and you can set it aside.
Attachment 10658
Ge0
10 Attachment(s)
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
Midbass investigation!!!
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Midbass front depth is 1-3/4" or 1.75 for you engineers :)
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The cut out diameter is 8"
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Limiting rear depth is another 1-3/4" or 1.75 at the bottom before you hit the window-lift regulator. OUCH!!! Pretty shallow. My last vehicle gave me 3 inches.
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Ge0
9 Attachment(s)
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
Here is the midbass speaker. This has been typical Bose design for the last ten years. Too bad they had to cheapen it up so much. Midbass output is strong but very sloppy / muddy. They must hold a solid patent on this design. Putting $20 more dollars into this driver could make it awesome. Maybe why other aftermarket companies have not replicated it and improved it. Anyway, I can't work with this so I'm going to replace it.
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The magnet extends 1/4" or 0.25" above the speaker frame
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Main speaker frame depth is 1-3/4" or 1.75" above the mounting surface baffle. Just like mounted measurements showed.
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Here is the cut-out template:
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Ge0
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
I think I see where you are going here...
You have 1.75" behind the door, but the speaker really "starts" 1.75" forward of the door structure. That's technically room for an 8" with (got to leave 1/2" or so for flange and surround - maybe more if you have door panel clearance?) about 3" of rear clearance, if you make a 1.25" thick adapter ring?
And on the rear fill topic - it's something I actually am going to explore in my Civic sport hatch in I think the same way you are (L-R?), but I'll be using my rear doors for midbass support. Also, even if I weren't, I think (much like you found with those rear tweets, but probably to a milder degree) those rear doors are just too close - they actually have shorter pathlength distances to your head than your front speakers!
Those C-pillar spots, those to me look like the ticket for rear fill speakers. I'm envious, I have no spot back there. I think I'm going to have to make some little pods, or maybe even in the rear hatch door - probably just use some 2" full range speakers I am sitting on. Curious if you have any speakers pegged for this yet? I'm honestly thinking "any old crap speaker" would work for simulating reflected sound waves in a live environment. Maybe even 'the worse the better' :lol:
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
geolemon
I think I see where you are going here...
You have 1.75" behind the door, but the speaker really "starts" 1.75" forward of the door structure. That's technically room for an 8" with (got to leave 1/2" or so for flange and surround - maybe more if you have door panel clearance?) about 3" of rear clearance, if you make a 1.25" thick adapter ring?
Yep. Pretty much. I'll have 1-5/8" behind the door skin for magnet structure with just enough clearance not to hit the window regulator mechanism. I have 1-7/8 between inner door skin and door card. Now, subtract off space for speaker surround and max cone excursion. You come out to roughly 3" to be safe. Don't want my midbass farting against the inner door card at higher volumes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
geolemon
And on the rear fill topic - it's something I actually am going to explore in my Civic sport hatch in I think the same way you are (L-R?), but I'll be using my rear doors for midbass support. Also, even if I weren't, I think (much like you found with those rear tweets, but probably to a milder degree) those rear doors are just too close - they actually have shorter pathlength distances to your head than your front speakers!
Those C-pillar spots, those to me look like the ticket for rear fill speakers. I'm envious, I have no spot back there. I think I'm going to have to make some little pods, or maybe even in the rear hatch door - probably just use some 2" full range speakers I am sitting on. Curious if you have any speakers pegged for this yet? I'm honestly thinking "any old crap speaker" would work for simulating reflected sound waves in a live environment. Maybe even 'the worse the better' :lol:
To be honest, you don't need a lot of fidelity out of the rear fill speakers. They will be band limited 300Hz up to 2.5Khz and attenuated considerably. However, due to my OCD here is what I am planning.
1.) See if I can shoe horn in my peerless SLS 6's into the factory rear door location to provide mid bass support. Run these midbasses band limited 80Hz-->300Hz.
2.) Put identical midranges from the front stage in the rear D-pillars for the L-R rear fill. Right now I am targeting the Scan 10F for this duty.
If I do this I will need to step up from Helix V Eight to V Twelve because I'll run out of channels. Ughhh...
Ge0
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ge0
To be honest, you don't need a lot of fidelity out of the rear fill speakers. They will be band limited 300Hz up to 2.5Khz and attenuated considerably. However, due to my OCD here is what I am planning.
1.) See if I can shoe horn in my peerless SLS 6's into the factory rear door location to provide mid bass support. Run these midbasses band limited 80Hz-->300Hz.
2.) Put identical midranges from the front stage in the rear D-pillars for the L-R rear fill. Right now I am targeting the Scan 10F for this duty.
If I do this I will need to step up from Helix V Eight to V Twelve because I'll run out of channels. Ughhh...
Ge0
If you do end up stuck and the Helix V Eight does the L-R, let me know - I'm planning on, but still pre-purchase on the miniDSP 6x8. I'm flexible if it does what I want, and especially if the app works better in "landscape" than the miniDSP app does (planning on trying to get slightly slick with an Android box that uses my in-dash touchscreen). Maybe work out a joint deal on that and that Mass 12 if you do decide to let go of both. :lol:
But then again, I might find myself in the same boat as you. I'm sitting on small full-range 2's that would at least be a fun starting point for a 3-way experiment in the future.
And here's another thought - if you had to cut the sub loose and simply not run that through the DSP, that wouldn't really penalize you, unless that Zapco doesn't have a subsonic filter or a steep enough Xover for you. If so, $100 you could employ a miniDSP 2x4 just for that purpose. :wink:
I'll follow this thread closely, I have a set of Focal tweeters from a K2Power set that are my personal favorite tweeters, and I'd love to use them - but I'm still completely open on the rest. Using a DSP and going all-active would make those easier to integrate, and I'm also looking to find something that I could put in all four door spots that can serve dual-duty as kick-ass midbass drivers and midrange...
To be honest, I wish I had four of the K2Power 6.5 mids. And now that I think of it - those were actually 2 ohm. Maybe I should see if there's any used ones out there... not sure how the new ones compare but I loved the ones from 10 years ago.
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
geolemon
If you do end up stuck and the Helix V Eight does the L-R, let me know - I'm planning on, but still pre-purchase on the miniDSP 6x8. I'm flexible if it does what I want, and especially if the app works better in "landscape" than the miniDSP app does (planning on trying to get slightly slick with an Android box that uses my in-dash touchscreen). Maybe work out a joint deal on that and that Mass 12 if you do decide to let go of both. :lol:
But then again, I might find myself in the same boat as you. I'm sitting on small full-range 2's that would at least be a fun starting point for a 3-way experiment in the future.
And here's another thought - if you had to cut the sub loose and simply not run that through the DSP, that wouldn't really penalize you, unless that Zapco doesn't have a subsonic filter or a steep enough Xover for you. If so, $100 you could employ a miniDSP 2x4 just for that purpose. :wink:
I'll follow this thread closely, I have a set of Focal tweeters from a K2Power set that are my personal favorite tweeters, and I'd love to use them - but I'm still completely open on the rest. Using a DSP and going all-active would make those easier to integrate, and I'm also looking to find something that I could put in all four door spots that can serve dual-duty as kick-ass midbass drivers and midrange...
To be honest, I wish I had four of the K2Power 6.5 mids. And now that I think of it - those were actually 2 ohm. Maybe I should see if there's any used ones out there... not sure how the new ones compare but I loved the ones from 10 years ago.
I haven't bought anything yet. Still in the planning phase. I don't have the extra cash to make impulse buys just to try stuff out. I need to be methodical. Here is why I like the Helix V Eight:
1.) Has a highly rated center channel solution
2.) Can run my entire from stage and rear fill off it's 8 channels
3.) Can be used to create my L-R rear fill channel
4.) Has an additional 2 DSP channels for sub out.
5.) Small enough to mount in the spot I have intended for it
So far my front stage will be:
1.) Two eight inch midbasses (Maybe Dyn MW182 if I can find them used) otherwise I will settle for an alternative cheaper solution
2.) Two Scan 10F midrange's high in doors
3.) Two Scan 2904 tweets in dash
4.) One Scan 10F midrange as center
Rear fill will just be a mono L-R channel being fed to factory stock 6.5" drivers for now
The Helix will pass signal to my Zapco DC REF 500.1 sub amp to power whatever I wind up with there. For now its the single 10TW3-D4.
Seems kind of a waste not using the DSP inside the Zapco. But, I already own the amp so may as well use it. I also have a DC REF 650.6 and DC REF 360.4 that will go unused due to their size. Can't fit them and keep my spare. That's why I am going the Helix route.
I considered miniDSP but would still need amps anyway. That's one favorable about the Helix is that it is in a 2in1 package. That, and I'm not sure if miniDSP does a decent center channel plus my required rear fill.
I'll spend the next several weeks buying drivers and integrating them into the vehicle. I will probably need to run them off the factory Bose amp for now until I can afford the Helix and the SDMI25 adapter I need to replace the factory amp.
Ge0
Re: 2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build
Size has been a consideration to me too... and I'm also super intrigued by the really compact mini amps that have come out recently.
Trust me, I'm not going to be trusting my sound to some salad bar company like Skar or NVX, but I am eyeballing the new Rockford Power amps that came out this year-
Thinking I could start with this five channel: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...ils/t1000x5ad/
And when I go all-active on the front stage and have an L-R rear stage to add will need four more channels: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...ails/t400x4ad/
It's really ludicrous how small they are, and they exceeded all their specs - the deep dive dissection video of the 5 channel by Williston and Barevids was interesting, they really seem well built.
And I have to say - when they showed that the clipping indicators both for the line in, and for the amp outputs were accurate, easily accessible up top, but also protected - that's slick too.
I think RF's subs fell off years ago, but glad to see they are still pushing hard on amps.