Tuning an OEM system

Have limited time for audio these days (job, kids etc) and drive an old European car (Renault Clio Mk3) where I changed the headunit for a Pioneer DEH-S720 and running standard speakers - 5.25" mids in doors and 1" tweeters in dash firing up into the windscreen.

Thought it would be interesting to tune it and see what it can (or can't do). Using the Pioneer Smart Sync app for tuning.

All running active off the headunit with no rear door speakers running. Mids crossed at 80Hz, mids and tweeters crossed at 5kHz all with 12db slopes. I have turned the tweeter level down to try to balance the sound by ear. Still need to do TA.

Initial output here:

Attachment 14084

It does have a cap on the tweeters as they normally run off the front output from the headunit. I have spliced the wires and connected them to run active. Don't know what freq the cap could be crossing the tweeter at unless you can spot it on the graph!

Needs lots of playing with....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SiW80

Have limited time for audio these days (job, kids etc) and drive an old European car (Renault Clio Mk3) where I changed the headunit for a Pioneer DEH-S720 and running standard speakers - 5.25" mids in doors and 1" tweeters in dash firing up into the windscreen.

Thought it would be interesting to tune it and see what it can (or can't do). Using the Pioneer Smart Sync app for tuning.

All running active off the headunit with no rear door speakers running. Mids crossed at 80Hz, mids and tweeters crossed at 5kHz all with 12db slopes. I have turned the tweeter level down to try to balance the sound by ear. Still need to do TA.

Initial output here:

Attachment 14084

It does have a cap on the tweeters as they normally run off the front output from the headunit. I have spliced the wires and connected them to run active. Don't know what freq the cap could be crossing the tweeter at unless you can spot it on the graph!

Needs lots of playing with....

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Adjust your vertical scale to 5db increments about about a 50db vertical space, so whatever the lowest number on the vertical scale is, the top should be 50db more. It looks like the 50db is pretty good right now, so just adjust to 5db increments.

Mids going up to 5khz is very high for a 5.25" speaker. If you can lower that to more like 2500-3000 it would be better. Even then, it is beyond beaming at that point, and that is physics that you can't change.

Here is a fun chart (I got called out this weekend @Justin Zazzi for posting this a lot...but it is a very good chart lol). You don't really want to be beyond the light green area, usually the yellow area is starting to get issues, the orange and red are definitely not ideal and will create issues.

Attachment 14086

Thanks for the tips :)

Bit more playing around with levels and crossover.

Seems the tweeters are crossed around 4kHz with a shallow slope through the factory cap. So cross there and all at 24db slopes.

Big dips and peaks in the mids - seems to be modals from 175Hz and then repeating up to 3kHz. The tweeters fall off majorly after 10kHz which I guess is due to them firing off the windscreen.

Attachment 14087

Current settings here:

Attachment 14088

For a basic (cheap) headunit quite impressed with the app. Only seems to lack being able mute individual speakers and it doesn't have separate left and right EQs (joint 31 band eq).

Will do TA next and if I have time test each speaker response individually to see what they can do. Tempted to pull the cap on the tweeters and let them run properly.

Switch your ML and MR High pass to 80hz and your sub low pass to 60hz.

I'd remove the capacitor if you have the ability to run fully active. How big are the tweeters and do you happen to know the FS of it? I would suggest lowering the crossover, but not below like 2x the fs, and if you don't know that it makes it very hard to recommend a great crossover for it.

I’m not running a sub at the moment.

Don’t know anything about the factory speakers so it’s all trial and error.


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