Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

So the two CCi-44 amps haven't shown up yet, but I have the CC-1000 which is simply longer, so I can use that and a little basic math to lay out the amp rack so everything fits.

It's going to be extremely tight, for this hinged part.

In hindsight, I probably should have opted for shorter RCA cable connectors - I am going to need to buy two right angle RCA ends to make my main long RCA run - that should buy JUST enough room.

It looks like this RCA cable should bend enough without stressing it.

I'm going to design a riser for the miniDSP that has 11 canals in it to route the RCA cable right back under - That will minimize my need to sharply bend my 4 gauge. Possibly I'll design it to also hide the 4 gauge pass-through [to the bottom chamber], but part of my reason for raising the miniDSP is also for air flow from the fan that the miniDSP will be in front of. So we'll see.

I now need to decide whether I'm routing the RCAs under the bottom of the amp rack or down the side on the inside-
I may have just been crowded into deciding to run them through and below.

At least that little rear fill amp won't be a problem.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e72ad9fec3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e7b27fd6f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f082d94724.jpg

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I figured out an amp rack layout that works, and will only require that I buy one pair of right angle RCAs to get the MiniDSP closer to the far wall of the rack.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3a79bb5d36.jpg
As mentioned, the miniDSP will be potentially blocking the fan, so I'm putting it up on spacers. That will let air flow above and below, and also am trying to 3D print some cable management. Something didn't print right on the bottom - probably because I only designed 1mm walls trying to maximize airflow - I think it can be salvaged though.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...93c2e817fb.jpg
This weekend I was hoping to get all the structures built and at least the lower fiberglassing - but I'm not disappointed with the progress I got this weekend since I had some challenges with the angled well floor and ended up having to tackle yard work.

Got everything test fitting well:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ccd6e94172.jpg
I ordered a stainless piano hinge and some 1/2" plexi for the top that haven't shown up, when it does I'll hinge it up, take some measurements, and decide on struts or an actuator for that lower chamber (power cleaning and distribution) access.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2e56b1641b.jpg

That looks great!
What are you printing the riser out of? PLA starts to deform at 140 degrees.

I printed it out of PLA. I'm actually interested on if that happens though, so I have been wanting a piece to experiment with.

I picked up black ASA but opened it yet. It's for high-temps...
I got it specifically for printing my A-pillar pods, car interior stuff. Those I definitely don't want to melt.

I'm in Buffalo but we do get into the 90s - interior temps could get hot, plus the fans on that end will be the "out" exhaust fans.
I'm actually really interested in how it fails, if/when it reaches that temp. I made the walls 3mm thick.

You got me thinking though, maybe I will just reprint it in ASA. I can experiment with some of the cable clamps instead of the fundamental support for the brains of the system.

I also have PVA that I haven't tried - and that's one reason I picked up this dual-extruder printer. Maybe it's time to play with that - I can at least use this for mock up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6071e54d08.jpg

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Yep, that's looking good! :thumbsup:

For amp rack layouts and cable routing I always take the time to make scale 2D models of each component out of cardboard that show all of the various I/O & power connections.

This allows me play with different arrangements for the best layout, and most importantly to visualize how I'll run all of the cabling and make sure I have the necessary clearances. Just some examples I had stashed away in my bin...they aren't marked, but the fused distro block is a Streetwires CBR44M, & the processor in this example is the miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 as well...

Attachment 15877

Today, as I work the day job, I'll be staring at my upper shell and three subs I'll probably be occasionally swapping in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f1d41b65f2.jpg
I need to figure out a baffle angle that will work and have enough angle to still allow that swapping to happen without removing the sub box. Yesterday I cut a cardboard panel, but it's impossible to tell from that.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1f4140362d.jpg
That pencil line was a guess from a test fitting. I can't get near that angle with the JBL without making a cutout in the back - no biggie if that has to happen, I probably have 2" of room to bump out the back. I hope...
I'd need room to make a cutout, then 'glass in a bump poking out the back.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b380c4fb59.jpg
Today I'll have to mock up something structural enough to test fit [using that ring probably] because they are just too heavy to hold in place.

It's worth a chuckle thinking how overboard we can get in a hobby when your subwoofers are all larger and way heavier than your woofer [emoji38]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4aac496969.jpg

Whoa... even have a security guard for your speakers.

He'll bite your ankles if you go for that pile!

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Pla melted in my car… in the U.K.! It was warm, but not silly, 20-25 degrees outside I reckon… I’d made tweeter cups on angled brackets and had them aimed between the headrests… I ended up with them aimed at the floor between the seats :( petg is far more stable in heat ;)

love the little sub collection!