Help me solve my minimalist F150 puzzle...

Biggest reason toslink is attractive is impunity to EMF. If going analog, any reason to use the 5/6 "sub" outputs? I could then use the PAC "bass knob" to change sub level on the fly, yes?

Got the tweeter mounts fabbed, but did not install. The OEM tweeters appear to have a filter on the driver (you can see the end of it by my thumb)? I thought it was inline in the wire, or was that unique to 12th gen? I couldn't find one inline and didn't want to damage the new tweets, but they fit great. Also, the OEM brackets have a bit of twist, which angles the tweeter away from the glass a bit. Should I try to replicate?

Best source for quality wiring components? Need wire, distro blocks, ferrules, etc.

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Originally Posted by dookie

Biggest reason toslink is attractive is impunity to EMF. If going analog, any reason to use the 5/6 "sub" outputs? I could then use the PAC "bass knob" to change sub level on the fly, yes?

Got the tweeter mounts fabbed, but did not install. The OEM tweeters appear to have a filter on the driver? I thought it was inline in the wire, or was that 12th gen? I couldn't find one inline and didn't want to damage the new tweets, but they fit great.

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Sure, but the EMF stuff was mostly solved with higher output signals 4v instead of millivolts. IF you have that issue, then you could go digital. Or go digital now and live with the issues it causes. It is up to you. Personally I would try analog to keep my phone and beeps correct.

I'm going from the stock Ram 8.4" headunit to an AudioControl lc2i pro, to my miniDSP 8x12, all analog, and my system is dead quiet. I even run the RCA's along side power wires down the drivers side for ease of install, even though many claim that is a recipe for disaster. I haven't had system noise since I was a teenager, with shitty equipment and half assed installs.

Thanks to both of you. Guess I'll do analog then...I do like the phone/park sounds where they are.

And I'm just gonna keep asking questions here, as they arise. Such as...

Thoughts on the tweeter situation mentioned previously? I'd love to get the new ones in and in service, but I don't want to destroy them pre-DSP.

Speaker baffles. I used the foam "muffin tin" style (because I had them already) and left the back closed. They fit great and seem to do an excellent job isolating the driver from the mounting surface, but I've since read that the open silicone are better for SQ. Should I just cut out the back of these and call it done, or is it worth replacing? I don't mind opening the door again (getting to be a pro at it), and I'd just put the foam ones back on the shelf for the rears, if/when that happens. Front stage is nothing to write home about (Infinity Reference), so getting the last half of the last drop of SQ out of them isn't mandatory.

12v source for bench testing. I want to configure the DSP at my desk. What is the easiest/safest way to provide power? Can I use a battery jump pack (I have a Noco GB50 1500A/35Wh)?

If you just run the tweeters will a full signal, you will destroy them FAST! If you want to install them, just run a new tweeter line long enough to reach the tweeter from the amp. Then just do a temporary mount for the crossover and plug that tweeter line from amp to crossover. Then have a short cable from the crossover to the tweeter.

as far as the full coverage muffin tin style covers, cut off the backs and be done with them. They choke the airflow the speaker needs!

Some of the F150s have an inline filter in the wire, but I can't seem to find one. I do see a capacitor on the driver itself. I wouldn't connect the new tweets without ensuring a filter, don't worry.

If I've got to remove the drivers anyway (to cut the baffle), why not go silicone? Another $25 is a drop in the bucket (that's already WAY bigger than originally envisioned...I'm sure y'all are familiar...).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dookie

Some of the F150s have an inline filter in the wire, but I can't seem to find one. I do see a capacitor on the driver itself. I wouldn't connect the new tweets without ensuring a filter, don't worry.

If I've got to remove the drivers anyway (to cut the baffle), why not go silicone? Another $25 is a drop in the bucket (that's already WAY bigger than originally envisioned...I'm sure y'all are familiar...).

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The factory crossover is that capacitor attached to the tweeter. You’d need to use your crossover that came with your speakers if you want to run it temporary without a dsp.

the silicone ones create some issues too. Best is closed cell foam, which a lot just make rings themselves out of extra closed cell foam.

Updates...

Wiring, M Four, and 10TW3 have arrived...still waiting on MTI box/rack. Dug out my REW mic/preamp that I use in the theater. Updated Amppro firmware and configured. Can I configure the M Four via USB without 12v power, like the PAC unit?

Got power/ground in under the hood and through the firewall but haven't put it in the sill yet. Ran 4ga Kolossus Flecks w/100A breaker at the battery, will split to 8ga amp feeds on the rack. Sealed tinned copper ring terminals at the battery, tinned copper ferrules at all other terminations, adhesive shrink-wrapped of course. I went through the driver's footwell grommet, one cutout and one next to existing. Pleasantly surprised by how well it came out. And cut out the baffle backs, so they're tubular like the silicone ones...there is astonishingly more bass.

Next, finish the 4ga runs and CLD the back wall/floor, install PAC and run RCA/speaker cables.

Amusing detail: I found a glass pipe, half-spent but still packed, deep under the driver's seat. Glad I was the one who found it! No, not mine...bought the truck used 6mos ago.

Perhaps this should move to the "builds" section? I dunno...but more questions of course.

Starting crossover settings? OEM passives have the tweeter hi-passed @ 3.5k/18dB, mids low-passed identically. Can't find a true data sheet for the drivers. I'm thinking tweeters get 3k/24dB high-pass, mids 24dB bandpass @ 3k & 100, sub 24dB lowpass @ 100? Zero overlap/gap based solely on the OEM crossover design. All L-R filters?

Been playing with the Helix DSP software (demo only, as apparently the M4 needs 12v power to be visible...can I use a jumpstart box to power it on the bench?). Virtual channels all the way...sub should be summed 50/50 RF+LF?

Gonna tackle the rest of the wire runs and maybe the CLD this week. Need some techflex on the under-hood wire methinks. Anyone with an F150 have advice on rear seat access? I'm thinking the seats come out, but if that's overkill, I'd love to know.

Not the place for questions then?