Spares also matter when your fabrication skills are akin to a squid driving a bus.Quote:
Originally Posted by nadams5755
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Spares also matter when your fabrication skills are akin to a squid driving a bus.Quote:
Originally Posted by nadams5755
https://media0.giphy.com/media/l2uLq...BYs/source.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by naiku
Entered the V60 in the competition in NC this weekend and am pretty happy with the outcome, 2nd in IASCA amateur, 1st in MECA street.
https://i.imgur.com/IaCEcRO.jpg
I got some decent feedback from the judges, which I suspect (and hope) is as simple to remedy as just treating the doors. Basically lacking below 200hz. Volvo have yet to complete the door latch recall, so the doors are still stock in terms of the baffle, deadening etc. Since it's a big plastic panel, I'm guessing that's robbing me off midbass.
Just hoping that removing said plastic panel does not require removing the window like one video i watched showed.
I did mine last night. My generation required removing the window. Good luck lolQuote:
Originally Posted by naiku
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I was just reading that and about you having to drill holes in the doors, welcome to the headache of Volvo ownership!!
I'm really hoping window removal is avoidable, but I have this sinking feeling it's not.
Congrats on the win! Those "trophies" are cool too. They can be made into a cool display.
Attachment 13339Quote:
Originally Posted by SkizeR
Yep, as I believe you wrote in your build log "fuck Volvo" hahaha
If someone had told me, hey you know to put an install into your Volvo you will have to remove windows, remove doors, drill holes in the doors etc. I'm not sure I would have believed them.
I will say that getting the window out was more nerve wracking than anything else, I also managed to remove the interior panel which involved removing the exterior door handle (the mechanism is attached to the panel that needs to be removed to access the outer skin, removing this handle in the correct manner so that you can get it installed again was a PITA). So far I have added butyl rope behind the crash bar as well as added a little to all of the clips that hold the door card onto the door itself. Tomorrow the goal will be to apply CLD, CCF and use tesa tape or butyl rope wherever needed.
Then hope it all goes back together smoothly, lining up the door latch, exterior handle mechanism etc. I am sure will be a headache. But, we'll see. Once that is done, I get to repeat it for the passengers side. What fun.
Everything back together, passenger side window was giving me some grief, as did the drivers door lock, but overall not terribly difficult. The doors fell really solid now, next job to listen for and fix any little left over rattles. Volvo did a decent job wrapping wires in foam already, i then taped some down that were from the OEM speakers, giving the door card and panel a few shakes and knocks didn't reveal anything, but we'll see.
Now this is what I tell people when they want to use deadener thats cheap.. imagine doing all of that work to use a half assed product. I would be furious if I did all if that and my doors didn't end up sounding like slabs of wood when knocking on them. I hope you did yours the same so you never have to doubt and go back in there again lolQuote:
Originally Posted by naiku
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Exactly why I decided to remove everything to get full access to the outer skin. Knocking on the door from the outside feels like it's solid, definitely did not want to go through repeating that all again. Think i ended up with about 90% coverage on the outer skin and a few strategically placed pieces on the plastic panel. So far so good, no rattles and pretty sure improved midbass response.