Separating two ways with inline crossovers using a dsp

https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/produ...specifications

I have these speakers, the tweeter is inline with the mid and the crossover is 3000 Hz. The woofer has a large coil physically attached to it and there is a cap on the tweeter wire which can be removed. I cant find any info about slopes etc.

I was wondering if it would be recommended to separate these so they are on separate channels and are semi active using my dsp and then put my own slopes on the mid and tweeters, eg 3000 24dB Linwitz highpass/lowpass or best just to leave passive as is with only a high pass on the bottom of 80Hz ?

you would need to take the coil off the woofer. de solder or snip the leads on the coil. leave them long enough to re attach.

If it were my set, I would ditch the factory "crossover" and run them active. With just a coil on the woofer, it has not LPF on the top end, so there is going to be all kinds of undesirable overlap in frequency response between the woofer and tweeter. Not to mention that you won't run the risk of popping the cap on the tweeter and damaging it.

I kind of like having a cap on my tweeters but I hpf higher than the cap but if I do something dumb like not paying any attention I don't just make toast of my tweeters
but then I hear the responses of if you have a cap are you "live" I don't really care its my $$ I want some protection
jmho

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Originally Posted by xsvtoyz

I kind of like having a cap on my tweeters but I hpf higher than the cap but if I do something dumb like not paying any attention I don't just make toast of my tweeters
but then I hear the responses of if you have a cap are you "live" I don't really care its my $$ I want some protection
jmho

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I agree with this. I run a cap on my tweets for safety reasons, nothing more. But if you have to remove them to run active, then go for it. But I highly recommend putting a cap inline that can provide that safety net (and eliminate amp "pop").

I have separated the components tonight, ditched the rear speakers and put the tweeters and midwoofers on separate channels with the inline crossovers still in place, I have done this so that I can turn the tweeters down as they are just too loud and I cant get my eq smooth without cutting eq all the way at the top end.

Following on from my original question, if keeping the inline x overs in place which are supposedly at 3k, some sort of natural/6db roll off I presume, what would be the effect me using my dsp to apply 24db LW at the same xover with the passives in place, would this mean it would be more of a slope than 24db when summed with the passives?

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Originally Posted by Crusher

I have separated the components tonight, ditched the rear speakers and put the tweeters and midwoofers on separate channels with the inline crossovers still in place, I have done this so that I can turn the tweeters down as they are just too loud and I cant get my eq smooth without cutting eq all the way at the top end.

Following on from my original question, if keeping the inline x overs in place which are supposedly at 3k, some sort of natural/6db roll off I presume, what would be the effect me using my dsp to apply 24db LW at the same xover with the passives in place, would this mean it would be more of a slope than 24db when summed with the passives?

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Where are your tweeter amp gains set? I have my tweeters set to minimum gain and turned those channels on the dsp down to like -6db. This gets the tweeters to match the curve.


As far as crossovers, 6db+18db = 24db. But none of that really matters. Measure your system with an RTA using either REW or Justin Zazzi's excel house curve maker loaded into the window. Then set your crossovers to whatever matches the acoustical 24db/oct curve. Electrical settings do not matter other than protecting the speaker. It is all about is your acoustical curve (as measured in listening position with RTA) being 24db/oct to get phase relationships right.

I have a helix amp/dsp in one, no actual gain knob, but I had to move the sliders down on the tweets -8 and cut the highs to hit the helix curve though do feel I have lost detail so bumped it back up.
I finally found more info on my spaekers, thanks google translate:
http://www.xn--80aeatqv1al.xn--p1ai/...er-ts-d65c.htm
Strange where they say there is a hump at the acoustical x over I have a dip.
Given that I dont want to remove the coil on the woofer am I right in thinking it would be best to leave the caps on the tweeters based on that article or do you reckon I can make it better with and active xover on the tweeter?