BMW X5 Dream System (From 1999) Spoiler - Fairly Mundane by CAJ Standards

Some background. I am a newb and greenhorn compared to most of you fine folks on here when it comes to mobile audio technicals. You guys use gear I've never even heard of and use math (gasp) to model out your sub and box combos. But up until I had kids always had gear in my cars. At least 2 amps, a sub, and passive 2 ways up front. Usually decent mid range gear. Never tuned in any professional manner, just by what pleased my ear using amplifier and head unit eqs and Xovers. Was always able to get something that sounded good to my (and other novice listeners) ears. For an idea of my level of competency, or lack thereof, I was an installer at Circuit City in a previous life. Hah! When I started getting interested in high school some of the things I did could definitely be in the Installation Hall of Shame section. I also hope you like pictures, because I take a lot of them sometimes, and can be long winded too. So apologies in advance.

With this setup I want to get a result that is a cut, or two, or three, above anything I've had before. This has been going in for the better part of 2 years between gathering gear and messing with it here and there. Those kids I mentioned earlier take a ton of time and effort to get right. Who'd have thunk it?

The Victim:

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2006 BMW X5 4.8is w/ factory navigation and DSP.

The Gear:

1. China 10" Android 8 core head unit
2. AudioControl DM-810 DSP
3. (x2) JL Audio slash V1 500/5
4. JL Audio slash V1 1000/1
5. Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" (in ~1.25 cubes sealed)
6. Stinger 4000 interconnects

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This is going to be my first fully active setup, with 2 setup in the rear and 3 way up front. I've been doing a bunch of reading (still have a lot more to do) so hopefully it will turn out well. Follow along, laugh, point, and enjoy. Could use any pointers/tips/tricks for sure so feel free to post those too.

Let's get started.

Jan - Feb 2019

First order of business was removing the OE equipment and installing the new head unit. Purchased off Ebay from a China wholesaler this has been a fairly reliable component, shockingly. Been using it without audio for Android based OBD2 apps, navigation, backup cam, and other useful tasks. Began by cleaning/trimming the harness of unnecessary connections. Then I bench tested the unit again in the truck.

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Good deal. Now gutting the interior and running the wire harness, RCAs, and backup camera wires. Followed factory body harness all the way from the factory radio to the front of the dash. OE radio is installed under the suspension air pump next to the battery in these SUVs. The in dash nav screen is just that, a screen and input device.

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While I was back there I figured I'd add some sound deadening. Used Noico butyl off Amazon. It's cheap, and works. There are better materials but what can I say? I'm cheap.

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Then I added a simple backup trigger circuit for the backup camera. Uses a micro relay, some wire, and an LED. Super simple. Found out later this was completely unnecessary as the Android head unit's canbus box was more capable than I thought. It actually pulls the reverse signal off the bus and will trigger the camera for you. Oh well, at least the way I did it I am able to use the OE PDC button to bring up the rear view camera anytime I want (under 30mph). Nice for having at stop lights and seeing the license plate of that a$$ hole tailgating you.

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Not the greatest resolution camera, but for $20, what could I expect. It works.

You have my attention

March 2019

Began doing some work on the platform for a storage rack under the rear load floor. Go easy on my woodworking skills. This has now been re-appropriated as a DSP and power distribution rack recently, but at the time I didn't know I "needed" a DSP. Hah!

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Ended up looking like this after I zipped the factory load floor (made out of 3/4 wood BTW) on the table saw. Will have a piano hinge added as you'll see later.

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Then began building the subwoofer box and amp rack. Though I am going to make some changes to this design now that I have purchased a router and want to give it another go.

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Need to go through and upload some more pictures so will update later after the family goes to sleep.

Staying tuned.
I also bought a cheap Android head unit to head things up, thinking of lots of practical advantages - everything from Spotify and Google Maps right on the device, to being able to install the DSP app right on there to change presets. But could be total crap. [emoji38]

I like the way it looks so far - curious why you decided on that unique stack for the amp rack rather than fitting it in that storage area below? I know you have kids, so you probably aren't folding your seat down all the time like I do

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by geolemon

Staying tuned.
I also bought a cheap Android head unit to head things up, thinking of lots of practical advantages - everything from Spotify and Google Maps right on the device, to being able to install the DSP app right on there to change presets. But could be total crap. [emoji38]

I like the way it looks so far - curious why you decided on that unique stack for the amp rack rather than fitting it in that storage area below? I know you have kids, so you probably aren't folding your seat down all the time like I do.

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Very useful units. The key to the Android units is to get the most cores possible with the most amount of RAM possible. That way it runs as close to a modern cell phone as possible. I went this way with the sub/amp layout because I could not find a way I was happy with to fit all 3 amps under the load floor. Mostly due to the air suspension compressor "turtle." Besides, this X5 is my "garage queen" for the most part. It's days of kid duty have passed. For that we use this:

Attachment 14845 and this: Attachment 14846

Back to the audio install. Everything sat pretty much untouched since Feb 2019. Remember those kids I mentioned? Couple that with a few remodels to both our house and my parent's house, maintaining 4 BMW's, and home schooling all through 2020, it hit a substantial delay. But I was determined to see progress in 2020. So....

Oct 2020,

I decided I did not want to splice into or cut the factory harness for the speaker wires. I also did not want to run new wires as I didn't plan on running major power to any driver except the sub. I foresee most of the gains on the amps near nil, but I don't know anything about setting gain voltages or anything either... so maybe I'm wrong there. I know the amps accept 8v low level input and the DSP can output more than that. Anyway, I ordered a broken DSP amplifier off Ebay for not wanting to cannibalize my fully functioning unit.

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Grabbed the soldering iron, solder pump, etc and removed the 2 necessary harnesses.

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I used 18 gauge which is factory size I believe. I wish I had used that for the tweeters too, but for some reason I used 22 gauge? Moron. Hope that's not going to bite me later.

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Here it is all soldered up and wrapped in tesa tape. I toned all the channels to make sure everything was responding and checked for any shorts between wires. All was good, but I wanted it to be more rock solid and "automotive grade."

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So I made some forms and ordered up some potting epoxy. Here is how that progressed.

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Learned some lessons doing this and it's certainly not going to win any beauty contests, but it will outlast the truck I'm sure. Besides, it's hidden when installed. Plugged it in and re-toned everything to make sure it was still good to go. It was.

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Nov 2020,

I got tired of removing the battery ground terminal and worrying about running the battery flat with the tail gate open and lights on the entire time I was working so I figured it was time to add a battery cutoff. Besides that, access to the battery will be extremely difficult after the installation is complete. BTW, I installed a new battery a month ago so I wouldn't need to worry about it for at least 4 years. Ordered a switch, fashioned a bracket out of aluminum, made some grounds (reused the factory terminal on new wire), and installed. It all fits behind the OEM trunk trim access panel on the side so is super convenient.

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Pressing on.

Nov - December 12, 2020

At this point I was directed to a couple of Youtube channels by a buddy who is similarly afflicted with an enjoyment for cars and decent music reproduction. Car Audio Fab (saw that Mark is/was a member here) and 5StarStereo. Thanks bud, after watching a few, I mean a lot, of those my Amazon Prime was going to get a workout. Plus I had to get an AudioControl DSP now. Scored that new on Ebay. And a router that I grabbed on BF deals at Harbor Freight. On the list of Amazon ordered items.

1. Tech Flex in varying sizes
2. Tesa Tape (more)
3. Wire Ferrules in various sizes
4. Heat shrink in various colors, sizes, flavors, and ribbed (wait, that was something else).
5. Copper Ring terminals in various sizes
6. Large AWG wire crimper
7. Sub box terminal poles (because a cup isn't good enough anymore apparently)
8. Machine screws and their matching inserts
9. Fused distro block
10. Wire zip tie mounts

And I'm sure there are other things I'm forgetting. But let's get the install pics going. Hinged the OE load floor. Will upholster this later so it is less intrusive.

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Modified my storage compartment to now house the power/ground distro and the DSP. Cut about 3" of height off of it to allow for a new beauty panel setup on top with some lights (RGB of course, lulz) and a deeper front storage compartment. Laying it out.

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And wiring it up.

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Decided to make raised stands for the DSP to hide the RCA connections.

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An accessory relay added for LEDs, DSP, etc.

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And what it looked like in the truck. BTW this is mounted to a plate that is then mounted via 4 bolts to the factory air compressor cross bar mounts. I have since done away with the air suspension in favor of coil-overs (and less headaches, as this is the same air suspension used in Range Rovers).

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The above is before I was going to tech flex anything. In BMW's I typically just wrap everything in Tesa tape to match factory wiring. Yes, it leaves everything sticky, and it's not cheap, but it matches. But I sent the above pic to the same bud (bad idea) and he said I HAD to tech flex the visible wiring. Of course. I made up a test wire and showed it to my wife. So then this happened.

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Next, I needed something for the speaker distro (12 way bus bars that I forgot on the list above) to mount to and a support to run across the span between the OE trays. Otherwise the load floor would bow under the weight of the sub, wood, and amps.

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Where it bolts to the DSP rack. Machine screw insert.

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Softening the legs and adding carpet and bus bars. I raised the second one so as to keep it compact.

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What it looks like in the truck.

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That brings us to current. Tomorrow I'm going to work on the DSP speaker harness I made. Do some tech flex, labels, etc so that it can be organized into something okay looking. Though I'm remiss in making it pretty because it will never be seen by anyone, except you fine people due to the pictures I plan on taking. My bud insisted it be pretty as well, he's very generous with my time. Hah! I've learned making wiring clean and pretty takes 10x longer than just organizing and installing. But hey, it's my "dream" system after all right. Will update as progress is made.

Well, the wife and kids waylaid most of my time this weekend so didn't get much (almost nothing) done. :mad: Had to run some cat5e for the wife's work at home machine and the kids had all kinds of projects because it's holiday season. Oh well.

Dec. 12 - 14, 2020

Finished the speaker wire harness (at least the car side of the bus bar). I have some questions about this as well. Hopefully you guys can give me some input.

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I also started the "beauty" panel cover/riser for the DSP compartment but didn't take any pictures because it's just 3 pieces of wood with rounded edges at the moment. Now the questions regarding the speaker wires.

1. I tried to Ohm each driver at the bus bar looking for consistent results between like drivers. This was not the case. Readings were all over (wonder if my DMM needs a new 9v now that I think about it?) ranging from about 6ohms to ~120ohms.
2. I got no reading from the tweeters but that makes sense given they probably have a protection capacitor in series. Is this a guarantee given the lack of reading on the DMM?
3. All of the speakers toned out appropriately using a generator. Still need to check polarity but I'm pretty sure I got them all right.

That's it for today unfortunately. Hope to make some progress during the week.

Looks clean and meticulous. Keep up the good work.

I like it - IMO it's the perfect balance between neat and practical. I think I spot labels on those wires, even!
Nice touch. :cool:

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ejeffrey

Looks clean and meticulous. Keep up the good work.

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Thank you. This is more attention to detail than I've ever paid to wiring. It takes forever doing it this way, for a non-pro like myself anyway.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geolemon

I like it - IMO it's the perfect balance between neat and practical. I think I spot labels on those wires, even!
Nice touch. :cool:

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Yep, your eyes do not deceive you. I wish I had a better method to the labeling though. The label maker I'm using prints on heat-sensitive strips so I have to be super careful when shrinking the tube over it or risk discoloring the label underneath. I probably should have skipped the label maker and just used pieces of printed on paper. :shrug: