Should speaker levels be set before using REW?

Hey, all, I started working on my system a few years back (my HU is a JDM Pioneer P99RS), got it near a point I liked, but then life got in the way.

For shitzengiggles I tried using the AutoEQ function (using "Custom NW") on the HU yesterday, and while the imaging is better in some cases, some fequencies are a bit harsh, and the bass response is pretty weak from where I was previously.

Also, since for some inane reason Pioneer doesn't let you see the AutoEQ curve, I feel like a chimp poking at a typewriter.

And, I thought I'd be able to go back to where I was, but for whatever reason the deck decided to screw that up, so I'm back to square one.

Anyway, I'm going to get back to tuning, using Andy W's AudioFrog USB mic and his measuring process along w/ REW.

What I can't remember is: should I level match the L/R speaker sides by ear before measuring (in the old-school fashion of using a mono track, starting with L/R mid bass only, then L/R midrange only, etc.), or set all the speaker levels to "zero" in the HU, then measure?

The old gray cells, they need some mental floss, lol.

Thanks, and have a good weekend.

If you're starting over, then sometimes it is less confusing to start with all the settings at neutral or zero.

I prefer to adjust each channel individually in isolation without any regard for other channels or their relative interactions. Once I get each channel working the way I want it to, then I'll consider how they interact with eachother. At that point, then I will start adjusting things like relative levels between left/right or front/rear, relative settings like time delay between left/right/front/rear, and so on.

However, there is really no right or wrong way so long as it sounds the way you want it to in the end.

Thanks, Justin,

Yeah, that's what I recall, I'll have to find some time to get back into it. I did screw around a bit yesterday and was able to get it close to where it was before the AutoEQ, so that's something... just haven't had time to get REW fired up.

Also, the interface on the P99rs is not my cuppa, too fiddly (and in Japanese). Thought I'd be keeping things simpler by having a built-in DSP when I imported it from Japan in 2010, but lately I've been eyeing outboard DSPs just for the usability factor. But I'd just have to find somewhere to fit the damn thing. 1st world problems, lol.

But the P99 is so darn pretty.....

Yeah, it really is pretty, and at least my VW has a DIN slot for it!

13 years ago, I'd hoped that it'd be all I'd need (HU > amps > speakers), and if the knob interface didn't fight me like it does, it'd be good enough, since I don't compete... but the recent software interfaces that current outboard DSPs like Helix offer is just too tempting from an ease-of-use perspective.