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Running the Focal iSub twin underseat units.
For TA measurement (with a tape) is it the horizontal length from ear or should I measure from ear to speaker (eg vertical for the drivers side)?
Have it crossed around 160hz but there is some pulling down of the soundstage so may try overlapping crossover with the mids (door mounted in factory location).
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Sorry cant answer your question as i used SMAART to set my TA for the underseat subs in my set up.. But i wanted to ask how your experience has been with the iSub's under your seat so far? I am currently running the JBL Fuse undermine and have contemplating replacing with the iSubsQuote:
Originally Posted by SiW80
I only threw them in (no treatment in the car) and running off a Pioneer GM-D1000 micro amp but quite impressed. Definitely better when the volume is turned up!
I got these to replace a 8” active Alpine in the boot and they improve the midbass and upper sub bass but not below 40Hz I would say.
Great midbass and lots of kick. Much better than 2 way with my 5.25” Oz mids!
The floor under my seats has a plastic air vent so they are partly sat on that which isn’t ideal.
They are a little boomy at specific frequencies in certain tracks, but no EQ or anything done and not ideal mounting. I need to get RTA measurements to see what’s going on.
I can’t get the JBL’s in the UK so tried these.
Have some HAT U69’s in the loft I want to compare these against in small boxes but no time yet.
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i usually do it by ear.
i do them separately (or together if mono). i mute all but one midbass and the nearest sub(s). then i find/use a track with a kick drum (first 90 sec on hotel california / hell freezes over works). i adjust the sub time alignment until the sub sounds aligned with the midbass; sub plays lower frequencies of the kick and midbass plays upper frequencies of the kick.
once i think i've got it right, i mute the first midbass and unmute the other midbass to make sure it's still aligned.
if it's stereo sub, i start by copying the nearest sub's TA to the farthest sub's TA. then i repeat the steps above process for the other side.
once it's locked in, i link the sub channels' TA together so any TA/phase adjustment moves them together.
finally, i play with sub levels and eq to get it integrated well. songs with linear bass sweeps help (lindsey stirling's we found love work well) and kick drums (rage's take the power back, lake street dive's rich girl)
we did this w/ rton20s' 3-way system (illusion tweeters, illusion c5s on the dash, and 10" subs under the front seats) this way. given the c5s weren't big door/kick mounted midbasses, we needed the subs to play well into midbass range, including the stereo signal. they rolled off naturally around 160hz under the seats and integrated well w/ his 5s on the dash.
How about TA between under seat sub and mid range?
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i do the front stage first, sub(s) muted. i do the sub integration last.
(well, rear-fill is last, but not all cars have it)
You so need to have a drive up si! Over Xmas would be good if you get a day spare, I’ll get the timing/phase nailed, pulling down of the soundstage is just levels and phase, that I can sort ;)
Would be best as you say :)Quote:
Originally Posted by dumdum
Will let you know!
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Once you have experienced smaart.....you never go back;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutaway
Although than you have to learn new tricks.....which can be challenging. Like how to actually use all pass filters and polarity swaps to your advantage.