4AWG Fosgate power wire enough for 2 AMPs?

I have a question, I have 4AWG Fosgate AMP wiring ran from my battery, it is only going to a Fosgate Power 750W D1 AMP, I recently bought a Punch 300w X2 AMP to run my Fosgate T1693 6x9's...
Could I just run my 4 AWG wire to a distribution block and split it so the 4 AWG runs to the 750 D1, and an 8 AWG wire runs from the block to the 300 x2?
I know it would be better to just run the 8 AWG directly to the batt as well, and put a 60A fuse on it, but my 4 AWG currently has a 100w fuse.
Would I be ok just splitting off of my 4 AWG, or should I run the 8 AWG to the batt as well?

The 750's draw is..
Average Current Draw (13.8V Music) 40A



Max. Current Draw (13.8V Sinewave) 80A






The 300 x2's draw is..
Average Current Draw (13.8V Music) 23A



Max. Current Draw (13.8V Sinewave) 45A




My full setup is...
Kenwood Excelon DDX6906S deck, Fosgate P1675 front door , Fosgate T1693 6x9's rear deck, 12" P3 DVC sub, Power 750D1 to sub, Punch 3oo x2 to rear 6x9's

Depending on the length of the wire, you're reaching the max of 4ga at 16+ feet and pushing 2ga. Get a distro block that has at least 4 connections for 4ga and run 4ga to both amps (do not run 8ga). All wiring needs to be the same size, unless you run a smaller fuse on the 8ga run. After all set up play a heavy bass song and check your voltage at amp and then at bat. If you are seeing a difference of more than 1v (first verify you have a good ground) then I'd say add a second 4ga power wire to the distro block.

Yeah it is 16' from the Fosgate AMP install Kit.
I have a distribution block already, but it only has 2 outputs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 300x2 AMP calls for 8 AWG to 18 AWG, the 4 AWG won't fit.
So I see only one good option, which I guess will work fine, I could run another fuse to the batt, a 60 AMP fuse and run the 8 AWG from there to the second AMP, I was hoping to somehow avoid pulling another wire through my firewall, and running it along side the 4 AWG, but if it is best I'll take the time and do it.
I was hoping even though you normally want the fuse line short and close to the battery, I was thinking I could run the fuse line from the distribution block to the 300x2, the 4AWG should be able to handle an avg of 70 to 90 amps right? 63A would be my avg draw, although max would be 125A and would exceed what my 4 AWG and 100A fuse can handle.
I bought 25' of 8 AWG, so if I must run it I will, better safe than sorry.

My ground is pretty good, I have a termination block sending a ground to the AMP, and a ground to my 1.5 Farad capacitor..

I am thinking I'll just send the distribution block back, order a fuse line for my 8 AWG, and run that straight from batt to AMP, then use the second termination block I bought to ground the 300x2 AMP, not that it is necessary, but my termination block for the subs AMP and Capacitor are full, I could just use a screw, but I like the termination blocks..


Before I do all of that, you don't think splitting the 4 AWG to run 4 AWG to one 750x1 AMP, and run a short fused 8 AWG line to the 300x2 from the distribution block do you?
Pretty sure that answer is no, but I want to be sure before I start running more power wire from front to back...

Thank you very much for the response, it is greatly appreciated.

Went ahead and ordered a 60A inline fuse kit for 8 AWG, I'll make the 16' or so 8 AWG run to the AMP straight from the battery.
I still need to do the big 3 upgrade, that is soon to come, I'll do that all in 2 AWG...

One other question, I have some Rockford Fosgate 6x9's
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosg.../dp/B002G9DO9M

Should I set the 300x2 to HP or FP, I was thinking to set it to FP and 100-125 hz, even though it says it can handle 50 hz, I don't want to push the bass hard at loud vol as I have my bass already fom the 12", but I do want to hear good mids and highs from them...
I debated on setting them to HP but if I do I am not sure what to set the amps frequency crossover to... I think good mids should be from around 250/500/1k/2k.....
If I understand HP and FP with the crossover set to not allow tones under what I set it to, then I think either at 125hz should produce about the same...
Speakers info is below..

• Built-in high-pass 12dB/octave Butterworth tweeter crossover
• 50Hz - 22kHz frequency response with 90dB sensitivity

Considering what you already have, you can run a fuse at the distro block with 8ga to the amp. Or skip the fuse and run 4ga to the new amp with a 4ga to 8ga reducer to connect it to your amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-4-G...5295562&sr=8-2

Having a max power draw over rated fuse should be fine. They are slow burn fuses and don't blow the moment you go over the rating. It can handle short spikes. Music will never sustain max power draw.

Thank you very much, I wondered if they made reducers, and if so a solid reducer could carry the same current as the straight 4 AWG to AMP connection, good to know it is possible.

Your help is appreciated.

I ran the main 4 AWG to my distro block, split it to 4 AWG and 8 AWG, ran a short fused 60A line to the 300x2, wired it all up and the 6x9's sound a lot better, albeit I still need to tune things a little better, like maybe set the crossover to 90hz, 80hz is letting a tad more bass through at higher volume.
Thanks again for the help, I can finally ride around and jam to a full range of frequencies at high volume, lol :D