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Hey all,
Finally have new door cards on the way(you can peep my build log for the ****ing mess my last CLD made) and I'm curious as to what you guys use to assist with deadening door cards other than CLD. I've seen people use things like denim insulation and mineral wool, but what have you guys done and found a noticable effect with(MLV/CCF aside).
TLDR- Aside from CLD and dampening the door pins what do y'all use on door cards, if anything?
I generally pack mine with foam to add tension to the inner skin, and then add screws on the perimeter if I feel it requires extra fixing, I also apply thin closed cell foam or door sealing strip where the card touches the door skin (use a sharpy prior to removing the card to give an outline to run the tape toQuote:
Originally Posted by Turb0Yoda
I did CCF and MLV in my doors as well. Also added cloth tape to the clips.
I did MLV because bass notes from the subs would resonate in the door and create a lot of tactile feedback through the door card.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nadams5755
So, you’ve found that MLV reduces resonance? I have a ton of it, but I haven’t been going through the hassle of installing it lately because I had begun to believe that it only blocked sound from entering the cabin (something I’m not overly concerned with).
i don't have midbasses in the doors, so i don't have midbass resonances like many do. also, kicks-mounted midbasses didn't cause any door resonances like i saw with the subs.
the door resonances weren't audible, just a lot of tactile feedback.
chris-p/toostuburn2fail suggested using MLV in the doors. if that didn't work, 5lb+ of CLD per door. thankfully, the MLV did work :)
my theory is that MLV stopped the < 40hz waves from working their way into the door and resonating/vibrating the door card.
resonix has a 1/64" thick sheet lead sound barrier, same capability as 1/8" MLV. it's encapsulated in CCF as well. should be easier to make fit inside door panels.
https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/pr...noise-barrier/
Heh- I should have mentioned- I'm avoiding MLV and/or Lead- the former since I won't be doing 100% coverage on this car (eg the floor plans), and the latter due to cost constraints.
@dumdum- what kind of foam? Just a load of CCF or something like denim insulation?
my progression over a couple years was like:
- cld in the hatch area
- cld on the door frames
- cld on the door panels/cards
- ccf on the door panels/cards
- mlv in the doors
- cld+ccf on the hatch door
- cld+ccf+mlv on the front floors
- ccf+lead on the front floors
- cld+ccf+mlv on the rest of the floor
- cld+hmf on the roof
eventually i got better about doing all the things at one time. :) my MLV coverage wasn't 100% either but it still did a great job reducing ambient noise, as well as my main use (reducing tactile feedback in the doors)
i suppose you could stop at the doors, thus saving cost, effort, and weight :)
As it’s in the dry side of the inner skin I just used whatever I had kicking about, old seat cushions, electronics packaging, anything to fill the voids and effectively press on the door card once it’s fitted back… ever heard a rattle and pressed on the door card to stop it… well the foam does this from the inside out, and also absorbs quite a good amount of resonance in the cavity as it’s 4” thick with an air gap behind it (the actual door) so it works down to below the freqs 3-4” of foam should absorb toQuote:
Originally Posted by Turb0Yoda
bass traps on walls effective freq lowers with an air gap behind the panel, this effect is minimal in a car due to metal work, but it reduced rattles an buzz’s very well… then I put 9.5” midbass under each front seat and negated any efforts anyway ��
Brilliant. Let the car warm her up so you don't have to bother with it when you get her home :DQuote:
Originally Posted by dumdum