UConnect 8.4 Wiring Info?

Seeing if anyone can assist with the wiring information on Chrysler/Ram/Jeep/Dodge UConnect 8.4 head units. Finding any information on these for a Challenger has been a dead end so far. Seems like your, "typical" owner of these cars believes that's the Beats Audio setup is one of the finest available, just needs more bass :daniel:

Soooo... I'm looking for the speaker wire colors, and perhaps where you can even tap into them. Seems my car has the Alpine 6-speaker setup, with two 3.5" in the dash, two 6x9" in the doors, and two 6.5" in the rear deck. The one install I could find with any bit of decent information, said the by nines cover 400Hz and down, the 3.5" are 400Hz and up. Just about every other install says the rears are full range, and they tap them for their subwoofers. When using a tone generator from my phone via Bluetooth streaming, I could verify the dash and door speakers to be very close to those numbers, but the rear speakers seemed to start rolling off around 80Hz. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

Attachment 5007

try that. I found that a couple years ago when I got my charger. I too have the 8.4 + alpine setup.

Awesome! I'll definitely try that!

I took an rta of the car when I got it and if I recall it did roll off.

Having said that, many people tap into the rear or sub output (mine had the 8" IB sub) and fed that to an amp with a sub and seem to be happy with it.


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That was my fear. I wanted to use the dash speaker wires to get signal for midranges and tweeters, door wires for the woofers, and rear for the subwoofer. But if I swap the rear wires to the woofers, and use the door wires to get signal for the sub, what will that do when receiving a Bluetooth call. :hmm:

That's a good question. I don't use bluetooth connectivity so I can't say for sure. Having said that, the collision warning and voice nav stuff all seem to work fine, and I completely bypass the oem amp. there are 4 channels that come off the HU and I don't recall if I grabbed the fronts or rears, so I may have just gotten lucky lol

My setup is removed at the moment for some fab work, but if you are still pondering in a week or so I should be able to test the bluetooth when I get it all back together.

could they have made that any more difficult?

So there are speaker wires you can grab signal from behind the head unit, and bypass the amp entirely? That would be awesome!!!

yes. the HU provides a 5.2v (as I recall measuring) flat signal. however, you lose volume control :)

volume is done over canbus and is handled by the OEM amp. I got around this via the arduino setup I built and my volume is done in the rane, so I retained my steering wheel controls and such.

So if you don't mind an external volume control through a DSP, then yes it can be done and you will have a full range, non-eq'd, non-ta'd signal. I actually started with a PAC unit and it was garbage. I used the harness from it however to tie into the oem harness between the HU and amp.

Well. That's, kind of bittersweet. Was hoping to utilize a trio of Zapco DC amplifiers. May have to just test the signals, and see if full range from that rear channel can be achieved, or just add a signal summing device.

Success! Maybe. After searching for almost every day since getting the car, found this tonight:

Attachment 5008

Nice find!


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Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I am about to attempt to intercept the signal between the HU and amp on my 2018 Grand Cherokee Uconnect 8.4 + Alpine and I'm wondering if anyone knows what the difference is between the front and rear signals. It was my understanding that the signal processing and fade are done by the amp and that the signal from HU to amp is full range, full volume, and unprocessed. If this is the case, then are the front and rear signal pairs the same?

that should be correct yes. So as long as you do external volume you have have two full range outputs from the HU.

Okay, thanks! I am going to try using an arduino interpret the can signal and control a volume control board, similar to the project you did in your Charger. Nice work by the way.

Thanks :)
an uno and a canbus shield is all you need. the rest just comes from sifting through the signals and isolating what you are looking for.

Thanks for the info. I have both on order as well as the volume control board I will be attempting to use. I will report back with my results.

You cal sell me that aplication on arduino for the volumen i try to install. Uconnect 7 in older ram but i need the volumen knob