I was talking about the low end having a tom of bossy and playing very low
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I was talking about the low end having a tom of bossy and playing very low
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I'd like to reinforce jtrosky's response to you.
Every rule of thumb and every comment you've ever heard about crossovers are supposed to be about the acoustic response, not the electrical response.
The electronic crossovers and filters and magical stuff you can do with a DSP doesn't have a "sound" or a performance of any kind by itself. You can only evaluate the sound and performance and tightness and whatever else after you combine the filters with the speaker, the enclosure, the room they are playing in, and from your listening position.
For example:
-remove the speaker from the system and you get no sound, you can't evaluate anything
-remove the enclosure from the system and all your bass will evaporate, so it will "sound" thin
-remove the room from the system or play the speaker outside the car and it will sound very different, likely less bass because there is a lack of cabin gain
-remove your listening position from the system and the sound will change entirely based on where you are standing. put your head in the passenger footwell or listen to the radio with your head in the engine compartment and the "sound" will be terrible.
-remove the filters from the system and you'll have a raw un-tuned response of a system that is not optimized, and very likely it will not sound great.
This topic is so outrageously important and so commonly confused that I want to share more.
The following two posts are from my build log over on DIYMA from December 2013 (wow it's been a while!). These posts are quoted word for word with the graphs I made at the time. This was a huge ah-ha! moment for me that changed everything.
I posted lots of useful stuff in that build log if you want to learn more things. Wow that was a fun thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Zazzi
Fun fact: this is where my inspiration came to build the "Jazzi's tuning compantion for Room EQ Wizard" !
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Zazzi
continuing from my build log...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Zazzi
WOW, Nice write-up Jazzi !!... I have to read it about 6 more times,... Thank You for this information !!
Somehow I missed this build log over on the other forum.....
Whoa - school is *in session*!!! I haven't read any of it yet, but I most certainly will - probably multiple times! Thanks for posting all of the great info!
@Brego - This is probably all mentioned in that info from Justin, but you can actually use REW to "simulate" different crossover settings. For a midbass, for example, take a pink-noise measurement without any crossovers, EQ, etc. Then, once you have that measurement in REW, you can go into the EQ page and "define" different crossover slopes to see what they would do to the response. I use the "LP" and "HP" entries. Just keep in mind that each LP/HP entry is a 12dB slope, so if you wanted to simulate a 500hz, 24db slope, you would create two exact same entries in the EQ sections (Type: HP, Frequency: 500) - and REW will show you how that HP/LP filter will effect your response. If you want it to simulate a 36dB slope, you would do 3 exact same entries in the EQ page. That is how I determined that 725hz/36dB would work well for me on that one midbass (instead of 500hz/24db, which is the acoustical xover I wanted) - I just tried different combinations in REW until I found one that worked the best - then tested it in the actual car.
Just make sure you are careful with mids/tweeters - you don't want to take any loud measurements without *any* xovers defined or you could damage the speakers. I just used this method for my midbass and rear-deck coaxial speakers.
I'm sure Justin has better, more detailed info on this in his links above though.
Very Helpful, very very Helpful information, Thank You! I remember reading that somewhere in the past, but never tried it... I'm going to give it shot.
Did you keep that 725hz/36dB setting for your mid-base. Does it sound really good?