I've used galvanized sheet metal and self-tapping screws covered in CLD and filled any gaps with duct seal
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Ben...t-Seal/4595233
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I've used galvanized sheet metal and self-tapping screws covered in CLD and filled any gaps with duct seal
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Ben...t-Seal/4595233
seems like someone with a 3-D scanner could create files of the doors of most popular vehicles, then you take the file/ download to your local library/3-D printer space, and voila....
for a small fee and the cost of a spool of resin one could have custom fitted door seal panels, probably would be better to engineer into the panel some structural rigidity, like honeycomb or whatever, then let the 3-D printer do all that hard work, leaving lightweight panels with bracing built-in, ready for install with screw holes already part of the piece.
might be a bit too fancy for shoring up door work, mid bass isn't that important anyway... if no one is going to see it anyway.
From my log finally attempting a good job at sealing.. I used .020 aluminum sheet, full-coverage with CLD, to fill the hole what I could and CCF where it wasn't terribly feasible over the window motor. Inside was treated with layer of moisture-covered Owens Corning 703. CLD coverage over every hole that could be covered also. Basically the window slit and where doorcard attachment pin holes are, are the only unsealed areas. A CCF and MLV layer between the card and door metal, along with existing CLD on door metal remained. Then insulation actually in the voids of the door card itself, as well as FAST rings round the driver. Easily the single best thing I've done this year in terms of improving speaker response. Flat out worked. Fixed huge phase-related voids from backwave interference etc. I can't speak highly enough of a good job sealing a door.
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NICE JOB ! :nod:
Either multiples of smaller drivers or two big uns [ 10's / 12's ] ought to put down some mid-bass !