Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
Now, to start on the power cables...
I've always used Knukonceptz cables and power distribution block. They just work good.
Strip the jacketing back about 5/8", and slip it through the gland:
https://i.imgur.com/q8xOFfs.jpg
Bend the wires back over the sheath:
https://i.imgur.com/fBvORq0.jpg
Thread it in with your fingers, to ensure you don't cross-thread:
https://i.imgur.com/0eFPqyJ.jpg
Then, wrench that bad boy down tight:
https://i.imgur.com/ERucHSF.jpg
Same process with the positive cable:
https://i.imgur.com/3L2paRW.jpg
Here's the distribution block, mounted on the bottom of the amp rack.
Everything is zip-tied and screwed down to the board. 0awg in / 4awg out.
Fused positive on one side (2 X 80amp fuses), and solid negative on the other.
The smaller separate inline holder is a 5amp to the DSP.
https://i.imgur.com/IKKwdPh.jpg
I also mounted the Helix DSP onto the bottom layer of the amp rack, and ran the RCA's to it:
https://i.imgur.com/lZzDe5s.jpg
Carpeted the sub enclosure, and added some Poly-Fil:
https://i.imgur.com/qRRv19Q.jpg
12awg. Knukonceptz speaker cable for the sub:
https://i.imgur.com/lEBeiAP.jpg
Sub is in:
https://i.imgur.com/aV8jJb1.jpg
Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
Time to bolt-down the lower part of the amp rack... what a rats nest:
https://i.imgur.com/4pGOoTN.jpg
But it cleans up nicely...
https://i.imgur.com/MS4Eoc2.jpg
Now for the top layer of the amp rack:
https://i.imgur.com/x8banWK.jpg
Pulled the RCA's from the Helix and connected them to the amps:
https://i.imgur.com/WWAinH2.jpg
Again, everything is zip-tied and screwed down secure:
https://i.imgur.com/AjG5Hj6.jpg
RCA's are connected and Power Cables are connected to the amps:
https://i.imgur.com/dZF9lAn.jpg
Speaker cables are all pulled through the vehicle, and connected to the amps:
(this is definitely the hardest part of the entire job)
https://i.imgur.com/ybnaFc8.jpg
Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
Time to bring power to the system...
Strip back the 0awg. ground cable:
https://i.imgur.com/PENedrt.jpg
Slip a ring terminal over it:
https://i.imgur.com/l113PlA.jpg
And crimp that baby down!
https://i.imgur.com/lTLWjML.jpg
Bolt it down to the OEM grounding lug:
https://i.imgur.com/2s3NoQU.jpg
Same process for the 0awg. positive battery cable:
https://i.imgur.com/oAmkdpC.jpg
BMW uses a MOST fiber optic system for virtually everything in the car... including the audio system:
https://i.imgur.com/y6ukGNW.jpg
In order to tap into that fiber optic network, I used a mObridge DA3.
The DA3 has a built-in DSP, but I bypass that and just use it to tap into the MOST fiber optic.
Helix also makes a similar unit: # SDMI25. The Helix does not have a DSP, just a Toslink output.
https://i.imgur.com/Y9vyylr.jpg
Just configuring the mObridge to work with the vehicle, and bypass the internal DSP.
It sends a full-range, completely pure flat signal to the Helix DSP-Pro:
https://i.imgur.com/DuOmfyc.jpg
Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
Now, onto the door speakers... unfortunately, I got focused on doing the work, and forgot to take a bunch of pictures.
Here's the front door skin removed:
https://i.imgur.com/6Z5XN3O.jpg
Not much to see here... except that I needed to pull half of the lower dash out, to run the speaker cables through the Molex, into the doors:
(what a total pain in the ass, pulling cables through an already packed Molex)
https://i.imgur.com/MlDVjD8.jpg
Cables pulled through:
https://i.imgur.com/SAI9kyn.jpg
The OEM speakers aren't total garbage... but they're far from great:
https://i.imgur.com/AkeEcmX.jpg
This is one of the current changes...
I used MDF as the base speaker ring, but just today I went and bought a piece of HDPE plastic.
It'll annoy me, knowing that MDF might swell-up from humidity and temperature changes.
I'll be pulling the door skins off again, and replacing that MDF with HDPE:
https://i.imgur.com/11WQVjI.jpg
Tweeters are mounted in the OEM sail panels. Had to cut it a bit to make the Tempo 10's fit:
https://i.imgur.com/jGatfwq.jpg
Doors all sealed up with sound deadener:
https://i.imgur.com/qs2lpr3.jpg
Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
And for the final ingredient... to replace these weak under-seat woofers:
https://i.imgur.com/Zl2oOjC.jpg
Somehow, they produce a decent amount of midbass... but I'm sure I'd blow them up, if I attached them to my MMATS 4250:
https://i.imgur.com/zkNALlD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fkaJbV3.jpg
Replacing them with this... Audio-Development W800-NEO:
https://i.imgur.com/RFRwiLW.jpg
Put some sound deadener in the base of the under-seat enclosure:
It is open vented into the side pillars of the vehicle.
https://i.imgur.com/XxbjsFT.jpg
Cut some speaker rings / extenders out of HDPE plastic:
https://i.imgur.com/qb5WT8O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5EfVTSR.jpg
Cut the ridiculously long speaker posts down with a hacksaw:
https://i.imgur.com/suz3AFo.jpg
And soldered the speaker wires to them:
https://i.imgur.com/P8UOStI.jpg
Then mounted them into the OEM floor boxes:
https://i.imgur.com/qruGP9F.jpg
That's about it...
Put everything back together; door panels back on, seats bolted back down, dash and trim put back in place.
As mentioned; I am already going to change a few things... just because I'm a sucker for 'the latest and greatest':
1. The mObridge DA3 is getting swapped for the newly released model: DA.G2-PRO. I expect it to arrive early next week.
2. The Helix DSP-Pro will be getting replaced with the new DSP-Ultra, when it becomes available.
The MMATS 6150 powers: Front Tweeters (150W each), Front Midrange (150W each), Rear Fill (150W passive per side).
The MMATS 4250 powers: Underseat Midbass (250W each), Subwoofer (500W bridged).
I did a bit of basic tuning and time alignment. Just enough to make it sound decent. Actually, it sounds really good!
But until I get the new components (mObridge and Helix DSP), I'm not going to spend hours tuning it.
I'll do it properly, once everything is installed.
Total install time: about 30 hours.
Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
I might add that; I was planning on waiting until the spring to do this project...
But you know how it goes... my mind started racing with ideas, shortly after I got the new vehicle.
I was out in the FRIGGEN' FREEZING COLD garage the past few weeks, working on this.
Glad to have it done.
I am getting a bit of vibration from the underseat cone hitting the bottom of the seat rail (at higher volume).
I'm going to have to pull those W800-NEO's out, and make a shallower mounting ring for them.
I also have to pull the door skins, and replace those MDF spacer rings. I've made new ones out of HDPE.
I ordered a new mObridge DA.G2-PRO unit, to replace the DA3.
Not sure if there's any real advantage to it... but we'll see.
The new mObridge was supposed to arrive today... but Fed-Ex has lost my package.
Been fighting with them since last week. Sucks.
Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
I know I mentioned it in a text, but I can't say enough good things about how awesome this is. The gear, the install and the extra effort with the pics. Thank you for sharing!
For anyone wondering - when he says he worked in the cold, he means -18 to-25 Celsius. It was fucking nasty out the last week or so. You're a warrior JimmyDee!
Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
Quote:
Originally Posted by
blockrocker
when he says he worked in the cold, he means -18 to-25 Celsius.
Yeah...screw that. You guys are too hardcore for me.
Re: JimmyDee's BMW Build Log
Quote:
Originally Posted by
blockrocker
I know I mentioned it in a text, but I can't say enough good things about how awesome this is. The gear, the install and the extra effort with the pics. Thank you for sharing!
For anyone wondering - when he says he worked in the cold, he means -18 to-25 Celsius. It was fucking nasty out the last week or so. You're a warrior JimmyDee!
True! Calgary cold is cold on a whole different level... I have experienced it dozens of times.