Where should I buy a Helix DSP Mini in the US?

Best advice, play with all of the softwares (you can download minidsp and helix software without having the devices). See which one you can use the best. Then buy that one.

I do not see some options in the screen shot for the audio dynamics (Input eq, Group time delay, all pass filters, some of the center channel algorithms, differential rear fill, etc) that you can use in the minidsp and helix options. Some of the minidsp options do require software upgrades, but these are relatively cheap.
 
I'm playing with some of the software right now to see how they work.

For a "decent sound quality" setup like mine (with okay but not high-end equipment) are there features\adjustments that a Helix DSP (specifically Mini) would provide that are just not possible with other cheaper options?
 
ozzuneoj said:
I'm playing with some of the software right now to see how they work.

For a "decent sound quality" setup like mine (with okay but not high-end equipment) are there features\adjustments that a Helix DSP (specifically Mini) would provide that are just not possible with other cheaper options?
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100% yes. Doesn't matter the system. There are things that helix (and minidsp to that point) does that makes any system better. The cheaper ones that just do basic para eq, crossovers, and time alignment are good and better than nothing. But in reality you need more than that for most systems, especially if you are installing and using other factory components like factory head units or tying in after factory amps.
 
Advantage to Helix is it comes with an Auto T/A and Auto EQ feature. Don't even need REW if you don't want. However, I can't say if the mini supports these features. It might have to be DSP.3 or better.
 
Jdunk54nl said:
100% yes. Doesn't matter the system. There are things that helix (and minidsp to that point) does that makes any system better. The cheaper ones that just do basic para eq, crossovers, and time alignment are good and better than nothing. But in reality you need more than that for most systems, especially if you are installing and using other factory components like factory head units or tying in after factory amps.
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jrwalte said:
Advantage to Helix is it comes with an Auto T/A and Auto EQ feature. Don't even need REW if you don't want. However, I can't say if the mini supports these features. It might have to be DSP.3 or better.
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Are Auto T/A and Auto EQ the only significant differences?

Other than convenience, what benefits do the Auto T/A and Auto EQ bring over setting things to match REW measurements?

I guess I'm just wondering where the point of diminishing returns is with this stuff. I'm not using high end speakers (currently using a component set with a passive crossover because my amp is only 2x100w), and I may at some point upgrade, but the price difference for Helix gear is quite high when you figure in basic accessories to switch presets without having to crawl into the trunk.

I don't doubt that a Helix DSP is an awesome piece of equipment, it just feels like the prices are being deliberately kept high (dealers openly saying they aren't allowed to ship to the market of competing dealers) and massively overpriced accessories ($100 for a box with two knobs and a button), simply because there's no other choice.

I guess my biggest gripe is that I don't see any indication that there is any way to control the device (wifi or bluetooth) without buying something or pressing the single button on the unit itself (in the trunk). I see they have a Wifi control app for Helix DSPs, but it looks like it requires an adapter, and I'm sure it's at least $150.

Don't get me wrong, I still think Helix is the best quality option, but it is nearly double the price with controls.
 
These are some of the things minidsp and helix offer. This list is not an end all.
Input eq, Group time delay, all pass filters, some of the center channel algorithms, differential rear fill, etc


 
Honestly, I feel that "extra" features of the Helix DSP's are even *more* useful with less-than-optimal equipment! :-) The "extras" can actually help you overcome the limitations of "lesser" systems.

Personally, I really like the Helix Augmented Bass Processing, as well as the ClarityXpander feature. Allpass filters are nice to have as well. I don't use auto-time-alignment or auto-EQ as I feel that I can get better results manually, but it's there for a "quick" tune if needed.

But the biggest thing about Helix, IMO - is that the software just "makes sense". At least to me, it's so much easier to use - and they are *constantly* updating it - and it's the same software for ALL of their DSPs, which is nice. A lot of times you'll buy a DSP and may not ever see a software update for your specific device. The DSR-1, for example, has some horrible issues - yet, they haven't updated the software in years. The issues will never be fixed - it's a "dead end" product.

I am, however, completely with you in that $250 to add wifi to a DSP that should be wifi-capable from the factory, is crazy. At this price point, wifi should be included, IMO. That being said, you don't *need* wifi - you can tune it via a USB cable if you want. The URC-3 "box with two dials" is only about $70, if I remember correctly - but you really don't need it either. I have a DSP.3 and don't use a URC remote. I use my subs knob to control the sub and use my OEM head-unit to control volume - really don't need any other controls.

Yes, they are a pain to buy - and they (and their accessories) are expensive - but the Helix DSP's are *so* much better, IMO. It's a one-time cost. A good DSP is really the "brains" of your system - and not something that I would compromise too much on. I started with a DSR-1 because I didn't need a "high end" DSP - but it was all wasted time and aggravation that I could have avoided if I just bought the Helix to begin with. All to save $200 or $300 on a system that I've put thousands into....

Just my two cents. :-)
 
If you have time to wait, one is bound to come up over on DIYMA or here... I had an "extra" DSP.3, but just recently sold it to a friend for $400+shipping (believe it or not, I actually found it in Ebay for that price - was like brand new - couldn't pass it up, even though I didn't *really* need it). I was going to keep it as a "spare", but my friend had a need for one, so I let him have it. They do come up every once in a while - just have to be patient (easier said than done, I know!).

If you have the time, give it a few weeks - I'm sure that one will come up for sale. Maybe post a "WTB" (Wanted to buy) thread - someone might have one they are willing to let go.
 
I don't want to say that you have unrealistic expectations on pricing necessarily, but as Helix is a european brand, it would be unlikely that you would find it cheaper in the US than in Europe (like the Austrian ebay seller mentioned).

So if the ebay seller charge $450, and you can get one from a local, authorized dealer with warranty for $500, then you're getting a great deal for the extra $50. Full warranty and support. If you feel this is keeping pricing deliberately high then so be it. For reference the retail on a DSP Mini over here in Norway is equal to 446USD. (Look up prices on Focal in the US vs Europe, they're not +10% like Helix, but +100% or more on certain models ;) )

Well that was about the pricing in different markets. If it's worth it to you is a different matter off course. But as mentioned by others, you don't need any extras to make it work, you do all the settings via pc and the usb cable in included. Sure you could add a wifi transmitter for convenience, but it's far from a necessary component to get it to work. I've usually laid up a long usb cable from the dsp to the glovebox, and just pull it out to connect to the pc when doing any adjustments.
 
I understand what you're saying Haakono. I found a guy on Facebook saying he could get one for me new for $399, which is why the $499 price from a shop caught me off guard.

The total cost for me would include some kind of remote for switching between presets, because my awesome wife is totally okay with me doing all of this. She appreciates good sound. She can't wait for me to at least get the sub in our current car. We miss it. So, the least I can do is have a preset for her listening position when she's riding in the car. Having to get into the trunk and open the amp compartment to push a button sounds pretty lame for a $500 unit. And is worth mentioning that $500 isn't a drop in the bucket for us like it is for many here. I like to get the best bang for the buck, long term.

I'll keep my eyes open for a deal though. :)
 
You used to be able to save a significant amount by buying from one of the Ebay sellers, but now it's not really much cheaper at all. For example, I bought my original DSP.3 from the audio_for_fun seller on Ebay - it was only $535 shipped. Now, they want like $599+$50 shipping - so you are only saving about $50 over new from a US-based authorized reseller. Just not worth it to save $50, being that you'd have to go through the Ebay seller for any warranty issues. I was willing to take the risk for $535 vs $700, but not for $650 vs $700...

I find it very rare to need warranty service on electronics during the warranty period. It's usually either DOA out-of-the-box or it works fine for years. I don't think that I've ever had to have an electronic item serviced while under warranty... EVER.
 
If the Ebay seller you're talking about is audio_for_fun, I've bought several things from him, and always had a good experience.
 
Can anyone explain the differences between the DSP2 and DSP3? I can't seem to find anything directly comparing the two and it's probably far more likely that I'll find a good deal on a second hand dsp2.
 
I think that the main difference is that the DSP.3 is based on the newer ACO-based hardware - which gives it a lot of the "extras", such as the ability to use the mobile app (which does everything the director does - but requires a wifi adapter to work), the Augmented Bass Processing, RealCenter, StageXpander, ClarityXpander etc.

Otherwise, I'm sure that they are pretty comparable. The DSP.3 also probably has slightly better specs, but I doubt any would make a significant difference.

I *think* they have the same inputs/outputs, but I didn't check - you can check that on the AF site to be sure.
 
Well, that was quicker than expected.

I just found someone selling a DSP.2 in excellent condition with the box, manual and cables for $300 plus shipping. It is being packed up now for $315 shipped and the seller is super cool to talk to and has lots of positive feedback on the marketplace.

Going by the ebay sold prices for the older models (even the DSP 1), I think I did pretty well here. What do you guys think?

I highly doubt I'll miss any of the differences between the DSP2 and the newer models. There doesn't seem to be an English page on the Audiotec Fischer website for this model anymore so I can't directly compare them.
 
Nice! Yes, I'm sure that you'll be very happy with the DSP.2. It's SO much better than anything else you can get for $300! That was a good deal - I think that you've saved yourself a lot of future grief with going with such a good DSP and skipping the lesser DSPs!
 
Glad to hear that!

This deal feels much better to me. I always try to buy the best bang for the buck... and that frequently involves getting something really good at a price far below MSRP. Spending $500-$600 outright for a device I have zero experience with is... not the way I usually do things. :D

The ZX750.1 and ZX200.2 I've been using for 13 years were actually both purchased as refurbished from Kicker and were an awesome price at the time. I've probably paid like $12 per year for that 750. ;)
 
Well... the seller also has a Zapco ST-2B 2 channel amp he'd throw in for $50 more...

I don't know if I have room for all of this where I plan to install it, but I could possibly go active if I added that amp. :o

That seems like quite a good price, but I should probably just save the money and put it toward a proper 4-channel amp later. The way I'm wiring the car (crossovers will be in the back with the amps) will make it super easy to switch to active later.
 
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Depending on how far you go down the rabbit hole, you may eventually want to just replace your main amp and the DSP.2 with a Helix amp/DSP combo device, such as the V-Eight Mk2. The Helix DSP's hold their value very well, so you'll always be able to sell the DSP.2 if you ever decide to upgrade in the future. In hindsight, I kind of wish that I would have went with the Helix V-Eight Mk2 over the separate JL XD600/6v2 (6-channel amp) and Helix DSP.3 - but when I started all of this, I had never even heard of Helix. :-) The V-Eight Mk2 would have just made for a much cleaner install.

The only thing that Helix doesn't have is a dsp/amp combo device that is also capable of powering your sub. JL and AudioControl have devices like that. but Helix doesn't - in fact, it's the reason why some people go with JL or AudioControl over Helix - simply because they have options that will power all of your "regular" speakers, your sub *and* act as the DSP as well - all in a single device. With Helix, you will need a separate sub amp.

If/when I ever have issues with my JL 6-channel amp or my DSP.3, I will probably replace them with the V-Eight Mk2. With my system, the Helix "virtual channels" feature would be nice to have ("virtual channels" are only supported on the newer DSPs and amp/DSP combo devices - the Helix DSP.3 doesn't support "virtual channels").

Welcome to the Helix club though! I think that you'll find that you made a great decision. You easily have the best DSP you can get for $300. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any Helix/tuning-related questions - lots of people with a lot of experience here.
 
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