Vini's Ford Kuga MK3 (Escape 4G) PHEV B&O A2B Audio Replacement Project/Build

V

Vini

Noob
[FONT=&quot]## This project log was documented on another forum initially, but I'm posting it here, some references to dates/times may be out of whack
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[FONT=&quot]I'm based in the UK and one of the very first things I tend to do with my cars, is rip out the stock sound system, and install a better one. I'm an enthusiast, not a pro.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]This ones been keeping me awake at night since I ordered the vehicle in November, partly due to the costs, partly due to the fact not many others have done it and as I've found now "the time is here", the actual kit you need use, is impossible to find due to chip shortages, anyway, I've finally paid for the missing piece of the puzzle, by having to import the A2B module direct from Australia, so this has spurred me on to make a start, knowing I have everything (at least on order).[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Now, my Kuga came with a "premium" B&O 10 speaker system. Everyones fully aware that all of these collaborations do not result in "premium" hardware, but, someone from a semi respectable audio brand has sat in the cabin, and fiddle with some knobs, to make it sound slightly better, to the point they're happy to stick their name to it. And, in fairness. For a stock setup, its actually not too bad. The centre speaker is useless/garbage, and the roll offs in the highs and lows is harsh. I think if they'd have given me some time alignment functionality, on the basis my mileage is massively reduced these days, I would have possibly live and let live, and been a happy chappy.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]But, I'd spent a pretty penny on kit, even before I'd received the car, so I was somewhat committed, and I do love to tinker. (#ipadminimoto | Vauxhall Insignia | Hyundai IX35).[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Anyway, here's my "build" plan/thread. I'll try and capture any How To type material for the How To section too...[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Plan[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Replace all speakers with aftermarket alternatives, improve the subwoofer whilst keeping the car looking "original" and retaining the factory headunit, along with factory sounds/chimes & all functionality without butchering the vehicle (it's only 3 weeks old)![/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]As the tweeters and central speaker are powered from the headunit (Sync 3 APIM), my plan is to run new wiring to the front tweeters and center.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]I intend to run Active Speakers up front, so both tweeter and woofer direct from the Helix. The rear, will be passive, with the crossover fed from the stock wiring and then split out accordingly.[/FONT]
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  • Hookup power and ground from the 12v battery in the rear. (PHEV bonus! The 12v is in the boot already!)
  • Replace stock B&O Amp with mObridge DA-G2 A2B Standard pre-amp. (Located above the rear right wheel arch, next to the sub, under the shroud).
  • Run RCA's from mObridge to Helix DSP/Amp.
  • Feed Helix amplified sound back down the OEM wiring.
  • Run new wiring from the Helix up to the front dash for tweeters and center.
  • Install door speakers & sub.
  • Apply sound deadening.
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[FONT=&quot]Kit[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hertz Mille Pro MPK165.3 2 Way Components for Front (New, £320 from CEN)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hertz Mille Po MP70.3 Speaker for the Center Channel (New, £160 from CEN)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hertz Hi-Energy HSK165.2 2 Way Components for Rear (Previous Installs)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hertz HX250D 10" Subwoofer (Previous Installs)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- Installed into a FBKolo02 "Basser" Sub Box (£140 from InCarProducts)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]mObridge Ford A2B Standard Preamp (New, £650, Imported direct from mObridge AU)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Helix V Eight MK2 DSP & Amplifier (New, £850 from CEN)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Dodo Mat Deadn Pro Sound Deadening (New, £50 from CEN)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Dodo Mat Acoustic Liner (New, £50 from CEN)[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]View attachment 17306[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Concerns[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Cost(!), breaking the new car and EV range post install, due to weight and battery draw.[/FONT]
 
Today was my first day off work since before Christmas, and I intended to rest up. Normally, I'd have a Sub Enclosure made up by Visual Ice, but to my disappointment, he was just too busy to assist, which very nearly put a nail in the coffin of this project. I'm not against knocking something up with Fiberglass, but I'm no pro, and the free time I had when I last did a custom build no longer exists!


But after measuring up and taking a gamble, on the "Vauxhall Insignia Estate Wheel Box" aka, FBKolo02 "Basser" Sub Box (£140 from InCarProducts), I am pleased to say it arrived today, and within 10 minutes it was butchered ready for a fit test. If it didn't fit, my plan was to use it as a base for butchering and "making it fit", the measurements were fairly close, so I was hopeful.


Anyway, upon arrival, and eyeing it up, I realised I would at the very least have to knock the spare wheel brace bracket off the enclosure, which the Dremel made easy work of.

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With that bit cut off, things got tense. Will it fit... The answer?


Just. It's very snug, and I had to slide the battery as far towards me as possible to sneak an extra couple of mm... This was a case of undoing the 10mm and sliding the battery towards "you". I've also removed the metal battery brace, which is just a bit of H&S gone mad
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You'll immediately notice there's going to be no/little room for the battery cover to go back on. Ill probably end up slicing the original foam one to at least cover the batter to some extent, the covers are only £13 from the dealer should I decide to butcher it.


Anyway, when in Rome, I stripped the boot clear...

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And applied deadening to the whole boot floor.

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Not bad for an hours work in the snow. Especially when I had zero desire to do this today.

Next up, Amp rack...
 
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So the missing piece of the puzzle finally landed from literally, the other side of the world - just in time for the long weekend. This is the mObridge DA-G2 A2B PreAmp. This unit replaces the B&O amp "like for like", but gives pre-amp connections allowing you to do the fun stuff. It's also designed, I believe, to simply live in the same location as the factory amp, so its simply a case of removing the B&O and installing this. However, based on the location of the Amp in the Kuga, my plan is to extend the Ford wiring into the boot, so I can keep the mObridge module visible/accessible and on hand.


Ahead of its arrival, I'd ordered a mini-USB extension lead, and based on some Googling/a whim some Molex adapters (male and female) in order to conjure up an extension harness.


Upon receiving the mObridge A2B unit, the first thing I wanted to check was my Molex gamble, I'd ordered some STAC64 terminals in a bid to make some extension leads. Turns out I failed, but not by much. I ordered Molex Connector Part Number - 34690-0200 and it transpires I needed, Molex Connector Part Number - 34690-0201. The difference is the Polarization/notch/channel, which I should hopefully be able to fix with the dremel - so not too bad.


Anyway, not much I can do until time allows, despite being giddy
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Eyeing it all up......

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How to access the B&O Amplifier/B&O Subwoofer


The B&O Amp is location in the right hand side of the boot, above the subwoofer behind all the trim. In order to access the B&O Subwoofer, and also the B&O Amplifier. You will need;

  • Trim tool
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • Philips Screwdriver (PH2)
  • Torx T25 driver
  • Ratchet and extension.
    • 8mm socket
    • 10mm socket
  • Gloves and patience recommended


Start by removing the boot floor panel, and move it out of the way. With that gone, locate the two cargo net mounts (red), and pry them open (green) with a flat blade screwdriver/trim tool.

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Unscrew the mounts using your T25.

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Remove two push fit/pop fit trim screws along front edge of the boot scuff plate trim using your Trim tool. (Not shown, but they're about in line with the T25 screws, but "inside the boot" pointing towards you).

Pull the boot scuff plate to release the six clips and move it out of the way.

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Using the flat blade screwdriver, unscrew the two plastic screw caps inside the foam cargo tray, and remove the tray. (Not shown)


Move round to your drivers side rear passenger seat, open the door and pull up the rubber door seal just enough to get easier access to the trim. Pry up the rear door scuff plate to release five clips and put the scuff plate somewhere safe.

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(It might be beneficial at this point, to fold flat the rear seats and slide the seat as far forward as possible - it helped me, but probably not essential).

With the passenger door open, start by working free the large trim panel. Pry out sides and top of rear side panel to release fifteen clips, pry off the boot Led harness using fingers (wiggle) or trim tool, and disconnect harness which will allow you to move side panel. The fold flat seat release is also connected. I didn't disconnect this as I found I had enough freedom to work with it whilst connected.

Right now you should be able to see/access the Subwoofer (Red), but also, the damn fiddly to get at B&O Amp (Green), which is partially covered by the top trim panel.

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The way the Amp sits, you'd expect that you just undo the 4x 10mm bolts using a socket and it will fold down like a dinner tray towards you. Try as I might to squeeze the Amp out of the tiny gap, I couldn't clear the Seat Belt tensioner, so I had to remove the top trim also. A single 8mm bolt and ten or so pop clips, this then allowed the B&O Amp to slide up and out like a slice of toast.

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A bit of manipulation/removal of four or so trim clips and the wiring harness is free to move around.

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This will tide me over now until I get time to do the speakers. Then it should just be a case of hooking everything up.

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Been a bit quiet over the last week or two as the A2B preamp has been giving me a headache. The joys of buying a relatively new product with very little information/user base.


Anyway, I had a breakthrough last night (with thanks to some folks over at DIYMobileAudio) in that it’s now passing through the audio to my aftermarket kit, so that inspired me to spend an hour this morning running the wiring for the tweeters from rear to front.

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All I need now is the time to fit the speakers… could do with another long weekend.


How it should look… (obviously/hopefully a bit neater once I’m ready)

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How to remove the Door Cards.


All four door cards, at least in the ST-X are fixed identically. To remove you will need the following tools.

  • Trim tool
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • Ratchet and extension.
    • 7mm socket
    • 8mm socket
    • 10mm socket
  • Gloves, soft hands, nerves of steel and patience recommended
Items purchased

Supporting Documentation





Starting at front edge (where you can see the +), pry out screw cover behind door release handle to release two clips, then remove one exposed 7mm screw. This was tricky, and can easily result in scratches/scrapes! Go steady.
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Moving on to the handle, starting at rear edge furthest from the switch, pry up trim to release the clips, disconnect harness and remove switch panel. I inserted a pry tool in at the angle of the red arrow, and prized it up, I then used another tool in the location of the orange arrows and a bit of force releases it - often with a loud snap/crackle/pop!


Remove two 10mm bolts exposed by removal of trim.
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Remove two 7mm screws along bottom edge of door panel.
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Starting at rear edge, pry out reflector lens to remove (Not pictured) and remove one (1) 8mm screw that is exposed.


Now, another tricky bit... Removing the card. I think I tackled this in 4 different ways, one per door
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Basically, its just a case of levering it off. I would perhaps watch the videos for tips. Take noted of the highlighted locations (red).
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Once the door card is off, disconnect wiring;

  • Up front, you have two connectors, one to the window switches and one to the LED.
  • In the rear, you have two connectors, one to the tweeter and one to the window switch.
I had major issues removing the spring loaded door latch, so I just had the door car propped up with literally anything I could get hold of and let it dangle. Not ideal. (Orange circle). I've discussed the removal of this latch here.




Remove three 7mm screws securing speaker to door, disconnect the speaker wiring and remove the speaker.
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Do whatever you need/want to do to get the new speaker fitted. I used these Speaker mounts, and deadened the door interior by placing my hand through the gap left by the removed speaker, as I couldn't get the door latch disconnected to take off the plastic panelling. Not ideal in the slightest, but....

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Woooooh, we’re halfway there…. just a bit of a follow on really. Been plodding away with an hour here and there.


All four doors are now installed. I've stuffed the passive crossovers in the rear door card, but the fronts are running active so both woofer and tweeters are amped up. This required the front tweeters to have additional wiring run from front to back.


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After mulling it over, I made a last minute decision to keep the center channel. I was going to remove it, but decided what the heck, and ended up buying some Hertz Mille MP70.3, sadly a twin set, of which I'm only using one, so quite an expensive choice. But I might sell the other on.


This meant I had to crack open the side scuff panels again and run another wire run from front center to rear, luckily I had enough slack on the tweeter cabling so was able to use it as a pulley
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I ran the wiring down the left hand side for what its worth. Getting the wiring from center to behind the glove box was a challenge, but not impossible.


I had to concoct a speaker bracket for this little beast. I made one out of 5mm acrylic.


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Everything's installed and back in situ now. Its just a case of programming the DSP.......! (oh. and hooking up the sub)


Vibes… #nearly



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So I've just got the tuning of the DSP/Amp left to do now.............
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I'd say you're a VERY advanced hobbyist. My wife has a 2020 Escape without the B&O system and it's interesting how different yours is from hers.
 
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