The "this is dumb" build, AKA my ;92 Corvette Track Car

As a veteran of several C4 Corvette audio builds, mounting the tweeters on the dash is the only way to good sound in these cars. You can buy pods, make them out of PVC pipe caps, or fiberglass them to the pillars. Sub's in the rear speaker compartments sound the best, but I have a friend who mounted a 10" sub in the rear compartment and really liked the way it sounded.

Good Luck, Randy
 
Many years later update.

The car is still out here kicking. Recently got it back up to snuff for racing again after two kids and various other detours.

So picking up from where this was left off...

It now has an ATOTO android radio. An A6 may be? Some.sort of fairly inexpensive one, but it still has 3 sets of preouts. It didn't have a volume knob, but it did have a USB port, so inwoated a USB volume knob up to it, and made a little panel to put the knob where my suspension control know was from factory. It fits, and is only like 50% janky.

I ended up buying a set of NVX 8" subs for it and sealing the plates off. They have shorting rings and some other stuff and actually sound pretty good. It's not gonna win any SQ competitions, but it's perfectly passable for driving to work on occasion, or driving out to a track day or autocross.

Still running the Dynaudio speakers. They sound great but I been having issues with the tweeters cutting out. I also can't hardly hear the midranges. Overall, it's overkill and it could use some love. Have considered throwing in a set of the NVX SQ speakers, they appear to be pretty nice and a decent value. When I installed the Dynaudio speakers I hacked apart the Bose boxes. This time, is probably be more likely to just build some very thin speaker boxes or baffles. Maybe I'll get REALLY squirrely and 3D print a box, though frankly that sounds pretty much a pain in the ass.

After rebuilding my speedo display, I now have noticed my tweeters aren't playing anymore, at least on the driver side, so may be a broken wiring issue, may be a "they finally shit the bed" issue, tough to say until I look into it more. But that's kinda where this one ended up.
 
I'm interested to see the USB volume know setup and ask how it works.
Works pretty OK. It has probably 16-24 "notches" where it moves the volume up or down, without any resistance or anything though. The ATOTO has enough volume levels that a full 360 turn of the knob is almost the entire volume range. Being digital, it doesn't have a designated spot for each level, it just moves the volume up or down depending on how you spin it.

I'll try to get a picture later on, I gotta get gas tonight on that car anyways.
 
You can see the knob at the bottom here. It came out pretty good, you can tell it's not an exact factory match plastic, but it doesn't look too bad IMO.

It's literally a plastidipped piece of ABS with 3M VHB tape to hold it down. I was going to do a 3d printed piece, but the clips for it to clip in like the factory piece would have interfered with the needlessly large base of the knob.
 

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So it just plugs into a USB port on the unit and works?
Yup. There's a USB port on the back, and android recognizes it as an external input device. I had to get the right size USB C cord/plug for it because that spot is pretty tight, so I needed a super shallow 90 degree connector. But any USB C would work fine if you had more space.

I don't know that it would work on every android unit. It works fine on the ATOTO though.
 
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