The "this is dumb" build, AKA my ;92 Corvette Track Car

As a veteran of several C4 Corvette audio builds, mounting the tweeters on the dash is the only way to good sound in these cars. You can buy pods, make them out of PVC pipe caps, or fiberglass them to the pillars. Sub's in the rear speaker compartments sound the best, but I have a friend who mounted a 10" sub in the rear compartment and really liked the way it sounded.

Good Luck, Randy
 
Many years later update.

The car is still out here kicking. Recently got it back up to snuff for racing again after two kids and various other detours.

So picking up from where this was left off...

It now has an ATOTO android radio. An A6 may be? Some.sort of fairly inexpensive one, but it still has 3 sets of preouts. It didn't have a volume knob, but it did have a USB port, so inwoated a USB volume knob up to it, and made a little panel to put the knob where my suspension control know was from factory. It fits, and is only like 50% janky.

I ended up buying a set of NVX 8" subs for it and sealing the plates off. They have shorting rings and some other stuff and actually sound pretty good. It's not gonna win any SQ competitions, but it's perfectly passable for driving to work on occasion, or driving out to a track day or autocross.

Still running the Dynaudio speakers. They sound great but I been having issues with the tweeters cutting out. I also can't hardly hear the midranges. Overall, it's overkill and it could use some love. Have considered throwing in a set of the NVX SQ speakers, they appear to be pretty nice and a decent value. When I installed the Dynaudio speakers I hacked apart the Bose boxes. This time, is probably be more likely to just build some very thin speaker boxes or baffles. Maybe I'll get REALLY squirrely and 3D print a box, though frankly that sounds pretty much a pain in the ass.

After rebuilding my speedo display, I now have noticed my tweeters aren't playing anymore, at least on the driver side, so may be a broken wiring issue, may be a "they finally shit the bed" issue, tough to say until I look into it more. But that's kinda where this one ended up.
 
I'm interested to see the USB volume know setup and ask how it works.
Works pretty OK. It has probably 16-24 "notches" where it moves the volume up or down, without any resistance or anything though. The ATOTO has enough volume levels that a full 360 turn of the knob is almost the entire volume range. Being digital, it doesn't have a designated spot for each level, it just moves the volume up or down depending on how you spin it.

I'll try to get a picture later on, I gotta get gas tonight on that car anyways.
 
You can see the knob at the bottom here. It came out pretty good, you can tell it's not an exact factory match plastic, but it doesn't look too bad IMO.

It's literally a plastidipped piece of ABS with 3M VHB tape to hold it down. I was going to do a 3d printed piece, but the clips for it to clip in like the factory piece would have interfered with the needlessly large base of the knob.
 

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So it just plugs into a USB port on the unit and works?
Yup. There's a USB port on the back, and android recognizes it as an external input device. I had to get the right size USB C cord/plug for it because that spot is pretty tight, so I needed a super shallow 90 degree connector. But any USB C would work fine if you had more space.

I don't know that it would work on every android unit. It works fine on the ATOTO though.
 
This car has had a lot of time poured into it recently, but none of it audio related. Well, that's not exactly true either, the car is loud AF now... But it's exhaust.

The driver's side cat start making noise, at first I was worried about it until I figured out it was just the cat. We don't really need that anyways. I had a set of long tube headers sitting in the garage for years, they were no name eBay headers and when I got them I realized they had the wrong emissions hook ups and weren't going to bolt right in to my stock exhaust, so they just sat. When the cat started rattling, I decided it was time to use the headers, and learn to weld to fix them and make them work. So I bought some cheap Amazon welding stuff (welder was literally like 89$ black Friday deal) and set to work.

After a huge amount of hassle, they're in and I'm working on installing a custom exhaust now. I added high flow cats in a new location, fabbed up a heat shield for that, then it goes into an x pipe, through some chambered mufflers, and out to muffler eliminator pipes I had on before. It's LOUD. Like 93db cold start in the cabin loud. I'm not sure how insanely loud it's gonna be at WOT yet, but it's gonna be rowdy for sure. It was loud before with muffler eliminators, so it's gonna be something else with long tubes and literally everything is straight through.

I also determined that the only speakers working in my front stage are the woofers, so that sucks, but not totally unexpected after having ran those speakers for several years on way more power than they were intended for. So now the search for new speakers begins. I still have the Kenwood dualmags I could use, but my view on the car has changed quite a bit since I bought it. It now sees more track time but I care about weight less. Doesn't make a lot of sense but whatever. Output is going to be a big deal now tool, what with the insanely loud exhaust and all. I'm leaning towards something like the infinity reference for it, something bright but also very high output. I'm probably going to build actual new speaker enclosures this time, as my butchering of the Bose boxes worked but as I recall looked like a crime scene more or less and never really fit perfectly. Plus I don't think the faceplate I made for the dynaudio speakers will fit anything else, and I don't think I'm getting a new faceplate on it cleanly.

So anyways, long winded post but suggestions for inexpensive but decent and loud 5.25-7" component speakers are welcome. The 3 ohm infinity speakers make a hell of a case for themselves around $100 open box.
 
Ended up going with Kicker CS components in it. The main factor was the tweeter pod they come with, makes installing it cleanly a lot easier. Plus it came with a titanium dome tweeter, which I thought might be ideal for this sort of "holy shit this car has a loud exhaust" situation.

Currently have it on the top factory screw hole because I thought it looked best there. I'll have to play around with the location when I actually get them wired in. With the previous tweeters I liked them low on the dash near the pillars, so will have to see where I like these. They're basically head level pointed right at me now, which might be a bit much. The lowest factory screw hole looks tempting too, but it doesn't look as clean install wise on the passenger side, due to the way the dash curves. The other option is to not try to reuse any factory screw holes and just put them where they fit best and not worry about the extra holes. I'm not sure that I can get any sort of receiver or speed clip or nut or anything on the backside, so they'd be screwed directly into the plastic if I went that route, and I'd prefer at least one screw into the factory mounts as a result.
 
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