Sexual intercorsa...

Still my favorite install to follow. :cool:

Maybe even more than my own, at this point! [emoji38]

At least yours feels like It's perpetually moving - it sucks when you only have an hour or so every other day to put towards it.

... although, you did say up there that you are buying a house so - you'll know the feeling pretty soon [emoji38]

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Bikey said:
if you are spending this much time re-modeling the rear, the front must be done :). Please post some pics of how that ended up.
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Sadly not, just following a logical order, I will need to run an extra cable to the front and putting an ultra back in means I need to remake RCAs anyway so it made sense to redo the boot as it’s never actually been finished since I have put the fifteens in :) lots of jobs need doing, luckily I work flexitime so I’ve had two days flexi off and one days holiday and I am off for five days Inc the weekend and I still have over ten days hols left :D
 
I would pay you in good vibes and likes to see some RTA readings of both the Satori's and 6x9s playing at the same time. I'm curious to see what happens to your 100-200hz frequency dips in that scenario.
 
Bikey said:
I would pay you in good vibes and likes to see some RTA readings of both the Satori's and 6x9s playing at the same time. I'm curious to see what happens to your 100-200hz frequency dips in that scenario.
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Ditto - that would be a fun experiment, great to see both curves.

One reason I'm using all four factory spots in my car currently is because of a long history of going pure stereo and battling midbass nulls.

I don't actually know in this car if I have them yet, but if you don't, I will take sweeps with just the front midbass running vs all four spots.

Unfortunately that's likely to be months out, in my case.

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Once the 6x9 are in I can sort the phase and response graphs! :)

So many machine screws and inserts have been used…

this could have lots of pics…
 
More birch ply and black spray paint was used…

the 8 way blade fuse box is a bit of an improvisation, I needed to float it, and then make some form of cable management system… so the 8mm aluminium tube stand-off (with M4 fixings) and cable tie tube will take the cables from fusebox to the side of the car…
 
The silver box is a step up to the stock alternator voltage and give upto 60a at 15.44v to charge the LTO, hopefully this will make the voltage rock solid, I haven’t been able to fit the power caps so they have been sold, I just ran out of room for them, heyho, the LTO is a very steady voltage source while discharging

the 8 way fuse box will contain 3 remotes for the amps from the dsp, remote feed from the ignition from the front, which will go out to the dsp and the relay to switch the step up on, the lto and 12v feed to the front from the step up module input terminals, a lighting fuse and also the main dsp fuse as well, this will all be routed front the fusebox along the cable rod, and also down from the bottom of the fuse box and down

im also re-running the cables front to rear as I have simplified the system somewhat so I have…

white - LTO feed to the voltmeter
red - factory battery voltmeter
blue - ig feed to the rear
black - earth to the voltmeters
i will also find an earth from the passenger kick panel for the relay for the feed to the iPad charger setup under the centre console

i am planning on moving the topping D10s from the bottom of the console onto a proper mount above the drivers kick panel, I am also re-running all the speaker cables from the rear in a different route out of the boot which is far neater

all cables are given a coat of Tesa tape and cable tied to factory looms and in the plastic factory conduit down there respective sides I will end up with a fair bit of extra speaker cable at the front corners, this will be handy to navigate around the kicks once built…
 
So a small technical infringement that would have cost me a mark has been remedied, I need <400mm from battery terminal to fuse… I had 440-450, so a 300a fuse and holder has been installed now…

plus I’ve recabled and trimmed down the front end cabling and made it neater also and moved the topping from under the centre console to the drivers side metal brace under the dash, not sure if it’s going to stay where I’ve put it… but it may get swapped at some point later down the line

The dsp is wired and on the lto also, so 15.4v, it’s spec says it’s good to 18v so I should be fine and the more stable voltage definitely won’t hurt it

i have also ran coax to the topping and will compare now I’ve got an ultra back in, last time I compared I couldn’t hear any difference, in which case the coax will stay as I can shorten it and make the under dash install neater
 
So it’s now in and playing, the voltage is unreal… on songs that would’ve hade it down to the 12’s I can now play and it doesn’t move, it sits at 15.4 and stays there!

i need to modify some rca leads, the ones from the passenger side have taken a direct ish route and may be subject to change, all the power is sorted and techflexed, speakers aren’t techflexed as yet, but will be done in red and blue to match the left and right down the car and be heatshrinked the same with blue for midbass, yellow for mids and white for tweeters, not decided on the sub wiring routing yet, but for now it’s just got no beauty panels fitted
 
A bit of something different… this was my db drag street max car from back in the day, extreme box building.com

a pair of 9917 digital designs, several hundred meters of thin wall box section steel and a welder

it got me to 0.5 of the world record at the time in 2008/2009, just something different, it was 22cuft and played approx a 164 off 13kw measured from 4 atomic 5000.1D amps and a single battery upfront

it ended up with 16 runs of 70mm live and 14 runs of earth plus the chassis
 
So a bit more… repurposing the now useless steering wheel controls!

I found a suitable dinky Bluetooth remote, and took it to bits, soldered cables to it and worked out how it worked (all buttons are earth switched which is easy to replicate)

the lithium cell on the rear of the remote was removed and replaced with a 5v regulator ic and a diode in series to reduce the voltage further to 4.4v, there is a live in the wheel that currently is fed with lights on, but eventually I will repurpose the clock spring and this will be fed from the ignition relay that turns everything on.

tested, spliced it all together and also have three cables left plus an earth which will be plenty enough for the conductor to fit in the other side of the wheel also just because I can!

Then removed the resistors from the resistor ladder in the factory remote and worked out what needed to go where, added solid wires and then spliced solid wires to stranded and covered everything in hot glue for good measure

then it was cut a trough around the inside of the wheel so the wiring could go around the airbag and a slot for the remote to fit in and job done :) works a treat! I’ll see if I can host the video of it working elsewhere if I can’t in the next post!

all from a cheapy Chinese media/camera remote! For £14 off Amazon… I’ve been looking for the right remote for ages! Found it by complete chance :D
 
Stycker said:
I read this twice and still can't figure out what you are doing with this BT remote that is now in your steering wheel.
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It's a great option.
Sounds like he did his install, and there's no head unit integration - I think he's using an iPad rather than a head unit, if I recall correctly. So - the steering wheel controls do nothing, and that's always annoying. Hundreds of hours of work that are pretty hard to sell to Joe Public as an "improvement" when they are asking "How come your steering wheel controls don't work?"

So by taking this bluetooth remote apart and hard-wiring the steering wheel buttons so they do the functions that the cheap remote buttons used to do, he'll restore functionality to his steering wheel.
Now, when the car is started, the bluetooth remote will connect to the iPad, and those buttons will do their job.

Great solution.
 
Thats genius. Fiio makes a little bluetooth transmitter to control DAP volume and track skip. They even make a holder that can clip to the steering wheel. But this is way better.
 
That is much nicer than what fiio offers. I think its called RM-1. My hand always hit it turrning the wheel and it would pop off. I like the velcro strap on the RF unit. Thanks for sharing.
 
Stycker said:
I read this twice and still can't figure out what you are doing with this BT remote that is now in your steering wheel.
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Simple… the buttons on the steering wheel now activate the Bluetooth remote that’s hidden at the base of the steering wheel, so the factory switch on the left of the wheel does track forwards, back and play/pause
 
The issue with a lot of the Bluetooth remotes is that they connect and then disconnect to save batterys, then if you hit a button they reconnect, then the next press does something…

this version connects on ignition and stays connected so it’s always on if the ignition is on, far nicer and works a treat, I just need to feed it from my ‘remote relay’ so if the stereo is on the remote is

i also have a 20mm switch hidden under the dash below the heater controls with three positions, I have the ignition feed to feed the relay in position 1, 0 is like a valet mode so the stereo doesn’t turn on, and 2 feeds the relay with perm live, the latter is used for demos and tuning

i have only ever left it on once and yes it did flatten the battery :D
 
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