nadams5755
New member
we do get togethers on occasions, last competition show this year in the area is modesto https://mecaevents.com/events/3025
False Floor/ Spare Tire Well Enclosure
- Thread starter Chris12
- Start date
I've only made my way out to one show so far. I'm hoping to make it out to the MECA event in Modesto later this month.
Update.
I finished customizing the lengths of my RCA interconnects and tech-flexed them while I was at it. They blend right in, which I consider to be a good thing. I still plan on cleaning up the routing a bit with cable clamps and zip ties but the picture below should give a good idea of what I’m after.
I also tech-flexed the speaker wiring for the subs which runs out of the enclosure.
When I set my gains on each JL Audio HD 1200/1 (40hz tones at -10db), I found that one amp clipped at 36.28v while the other clipped at 21.98v. I ended up leaving both sub amps right around 22v (@ -10db) and Nick was still able to tune them for gobs of output, but I decided to send the lesser performing HD1200/1 to JL for service. JL charges a $270 flat fee for their service regardless of outcome. I’m currently waiting to hear back from them.
After making an absolute mess with previous router work in my garage, I decided to buy a new shop vac for dust control. It captures a solid 98% of the dust created by the router and it’s really been a game changer for me:
Here’s where I’m at with the sub/amp reveal panel (or whatever it’s called
)
I still need to chamfer the edges, but the layout is complete. I’ll probably be painting it with SEM Landau Black and Low Luster clear
In the car:
I finished customizing the lengths of my RCA interconnects and tech-flexed them while I was at it. They blend right in, which I consider to be a good thing. I still plan on cleaning up the routing a bit with cable clamps and zip ties but the picture below should give a good idea of what I’m after.
I also tech-flexed the speaker wiring for the subs which runs out of the enclosure.
When I set my gains on each JL Audio HD 1200/1 (40hz tones at -10db), I found that one amp clipped at 36.28v while the other clipped at 21.98v. I ended up leaving both sub amps right around 22v (@ -10db) and Nick was still able to tune them for gobs of output, but I decided to send the lesser performing HD1200/1 to JL for service. JL charges a $270 flat fee for their service regardless of outcome. I’m currently waiting to hear back from them.
After making an absolute mess with previous router work in my garage, I decided to buy a new shop vac for dust control. It captures a solid 98% of the dust created by the router and it’s really been a game changer for me:
Here’s where I’m at with the sub/amp reveal panel (or whatever it’s called
)I still need to chamfer the edges, but the layout is complete. I’ll probably be painting it with SEM Landau Black and Low Luster clear
In the car:
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To pick up where I left off with this build - I received my HD1200/1 Amplifier back from JL following their service. They didn't send me any documentation detailing the tests they performed, which really kinda bummed me out. But they did send me a little snippet of the "work performed":
They also sent new plugs, which was nice:
My next step with the install was to router the edges of the beauty panel. After struggling with the router tipping on edges in the past, I decided to buy an offset router base from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785RDWWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This ended up being a test piece:
Here's what I ended up with. Not many divots. If you look close you'll see a red marker line on each imperfection as sanding was next:
After sanding, sealing and a bit of body work, I painted the piece with SEM Landau Black and cleared with with SEM Low Luster Clear:
This picture shows the texture. I used a dusting/ overspray technique which has worked for me in the past on smaller pieces. I ended up with some "tiger-tailing" or inconsistencies in the paint which I'm not completely happy with. But, I keep reminding myself that the whole piece won't be visible once the false floor with removable insert(s) is installed. If I'm still not happy once I see how it displays with the false floor inserts removed, I'll just cover it with vinyl.
They also sent new plugs, which was nice:
My next step with the install was to router the edges of the beauty panel. After struggling with the router tipping on edges in the past, I decided to buy an offset router base from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785RDWWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This ended up being a test piece:
Here's what I ended up with. Not many divots. If you look close you'll see a red marker line on each imperfection as sanding was next:
After sanding, sealing and a bit of body work, I painted the piece with SEM Landau Black and cleared with with SEM Low Luster Clear:
This picture shows the texture. I used a dusting/ overspray technique which has worked for me in the past on smaller pieces. I ended up with some "tiger-tailing" or inconsistencies in the paint which I'm not completely happy with. But, I keep reminding myself that the whole piece won't be visible once the false floor with removable insert(s) is installed. If I'm still not happy once I see how it displays with the false floor inserts removed, I'll just cover it with vinyl.
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Heres what I ended up with for the sub enclosure/ amp rack. I made spacer blocks for most of the right edge and the left rear corner. I also covered the screw holes with some PVC stickers I bought from amazon for a more finished appearance https://www.amazon.com/ZXUEZHENG-Se...8128&sprefix=black+screw+hole+,aps,131&sr=8-5
I installed the beauty panel by installing 1/4" dowels for alignment in the front right and left corners and screws into the right/ left rear corners:
The next step is to make the false floor, but for now I have the OEM liner installed. Its about 5.5" higher than stock. Bing said that he usually shoots for no more than 3" ... but hey, its my first time
I installed the beauty panel by installing 1/4" dowels for alignment in the front right and left corners and screws into the right/ left rear corners:
The next step is to make the false floor, but for now I have the OEM liner installed. Its about 5.5" higher than stock. Bing said that he usually shoots for no more than 3" ... but hey, its my first time
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I'm getting ready to enter my first competition (in other words, get officially judged for the first time) so I've been tying up all the loose ends possible.
One of the biggest SQ issues I was having was a rattle coming from the driver door area on "up-front bass" songs.
First step was to remove all the drivers side b-pillar trim. I applied CLD to all the trim, a bit to the seat belt mechanism, and a bit to the inner sheet metal of the car. Then I tore back into the door panel. I had previously treated it with cld and MLV, but I didn't use CCF. To cover all my bases I added an 1/8" layer of second skin overkill ccf to BOTH sides of the MLV curtain, then added a bit more CLD. I also pulled all the wiring from the door and covered it with 1/8 foam. Lastly, I reinforced the Maintenance hole covers in the door, which I feel may have been "leaking".
I don't have any pictures, but the results were phenomenal. Hopefully the judges will agree
I also pulled the trigger on something that I've been wanting for a while - a Helix/ Audiotec Fisher Wifi controller. I don't currently have anything other than my laptop (wired via usb) to control/configure my DSP.3, so this should be a nice upgrade.
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/brax/accessories/wifi-control
I did have one slight mishap though.. As I buttoned the door panel back up, I somehow dropped my tweeter panel onto my concrete driveway
Oh well, guess they were ready for a refresh anyhow 
Heres the event that I plan on attending in a few weeks. If anyone reading is in the area please come on out:
Sunday, February 13, 2022
https://iasca.com/event/3x-vacaville-ca-audio-intensity-sq-showdown/
One of the biggest SQ issues I was having was a rattle coming from the driver door area on "up-front bass" songs.
First step was to remove all the drivers side b-pillar trim. I applied CLD to all the trim, a bit to the seat belt mechanism, and a bit to the inner sheet metal of the car. Then I tore back into the door panel. I had previously treated it with cld and MLV, but I didn't use CCF. To cover all my bases I added an 1/8" layer of second skin overkill ccf to BOTH sides of the MLV curtain, then added a bit more CLD. I also pulled all the wiring from the door and covered it with 1/8 foam. Lastly, I reinforced the Maintenance hole covers in the door, which I feel may have been "leaking".
I don't have any pictures, but the results were phenomenal. Hopefully the judges will agree
I also pulled the trigger on something that I've been wanting for a while - a Helix/ Audiotec Fisher Wifi controller. I don't currently have anything other than my laptop (wired via usb) to control/configure my DSP.3, so this should be a nice upgrade.
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/brax/accessories/wifi-control
I did have one slight mishap though.. As I buttoned the door panel back up, I somehow dropped my tweeter panel onto my concrete driveway
Oh well, guess they were ready for a refresh anyhow
Heres the event that I plan on attending in a few weeks. If anyone reading is in the area please come on out:
Sunday, February 13, 2022
https://iasca.com/event/3x-vacaville-ca-audio-intensity-sq-showdown/
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