F150 2018

J

Julian

Noob
Welcome to my build for my 2018 F150. Supercab.This is my first big build. I am posting this to get advice and tips.


Components:
Speakers:
Audiofrog GB 60 front doors. These were used. The green +/- label had fallen off. Andy sent me a replacement even though I bought them used. Didnt charge me. Frog customer for life.



GB25 Sails. MTI has them right now, making my panels.

GB10 A-pillar.





Mobile Toys gave me great prices on the frogs.


Sub:
JL12W7 (1)




Enclosure was designed for me by Pete at Audio Dynamics.
He did a great job. It hits low and flat.

https://adcaraudio.com/store/enclosure-design-service/

My single rear seat is gone to make room for the sub.




I built the enclosure. Didnt do too bad. Hard to cut perfectly straight.





Source:
Sync HU, DSP408 and Tidal from my phone via android auto.

Amps:

GB60: Old School Phoenix Gold M100 I recapped. A buddy gave me this amp.



Here you can see the caps I removed and signs they were leaking.


Caps replaced, fingers crossed!
Yay no smoke and it works!
More watts than I need, but class AB old school amazing amp.





Anyone like Amp Dynos?
https://youtu.be/w6WifBuyRjg


GB25 and GB10: Sony GS4.

Here is the Sony meeting the DSP408 for the first time.



These Sonys were $150 for awhile at sonic. Crazy price.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-105659-Sony-XM-GS4-Hi-Res-Amplifier.html

I figured I would try it since it won some amp shootout and it is cheap.
Shootout article:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ttqllik75sefne2/High Value Amplifier Shootout.pdf?dl=0

12W7: DC 2.0k. I wanted some room in case I add a second 12W7. I lika da bass.






I clamped this amp at 930 watts into the 3 Ohm W7.


Dyno: https://youtu.be/YvnN3QABYlo

Steve Meade Vid on it:
https://youtu.be/_lBxAYQbB1c


Sound treatment:

Secondskin! I did the entire floor except under the center console. It is not easy to remove and since full coverage is not needed, I said screw that.



I did the back wall too... and both side walls where the seat belts mount.



Continued tomorrow! That is enough for one post.
 
Last edited:
I like where this is going. I love the W7s, I had an 8 a few years back & I should’ve never gotten rid of it. I love me some old school PG too. It should sound real good when it’s all done.
 
Appreciate the kind words.
I need to:
Mount the speakers
Build the amp rack
Tune
Still waiting on a few items to arrive.
I am sure I will have lots of questions. I could really use some help laying stuff out so my install doesnt look like that drawer we all have where all the random wires go lol.
 
I have an update today. I spoke to James at Mobile Toys. They were going to make the sail panels for the GB25. But there is just not quite enough room for these to fit in the sails. So they are making me A-pillar pods instead. That will take a few weeks.

I got a door speaker kit from Sounds Good in the mail today.



Speaker adaptors and some foam rings and some other goodies.

I will circle back to that, first let me show all the work I did to the front doors which Dom at the F150 forum showed me how to do. Jdunk helped me too.

Photo from my old speakers, frogs are replacing.



Here is the speaker opening. I pulled this one tonight.



I used Vibro 1/4" foam on the outer skin and door panel.

I had some pioneer speakers in the doors. Between the door and a cheap metra plastic adaptor I had put vibro. Then I vibrod on top of the adaptor. And that gave me a nice bed of foam to decouple everything.
Here is the vibro foam:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LZY3T...abc_C18Z0DGJGAZ3MWWH7CBG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Second skin inside the door.

Tessa tape on all the rattles.



Bruce at hush made me these covers for the window access openings. I used rivet nuts to install them. I caulked it with silicone. Not sure if I was supposed to do that.



Anyway, I got the adaptors in by pulling the foam back a bit and working it in there. Maybe I will tessa tape the foam flat again.
The ends are not sticking back down.



They gave me some soundmat with the door kit. Should I use that to make a gasket between the gb60s and the adaptor? I think this stuff is mlv and ccf in thin layers. Never used it before.
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/sql-audio-soundmat-sound-treatment-per-sheet-5-5sqft

Thanks for reading. Hopefully I can get these gb60s in this week and get a basic tune on them while I wait for the pods.

Any tips much appreciated! I want to do it right the first time.
 
I would definitely consider using some form of gasket between the GB60 and adapter. It will help seal for sure.
 
chithead said:
I would definitely consider using some form of gasket between the GB60 and adapter. It will help seal for sure.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I came up with this:

20210312-063436.jpg



BigAl205 said:
Putting a radius on the port will help with port chuff on the lower notes
Click to expand...

Ok, i have a router so I can def do that. Thank you

USPS sucks! Waiting for some wire to connect the 3rd amp.


middle east airline crossword
 
Just got them in. Big smiles. Like a totally new system. The mids I had were really bad. They could not keep up with the w7. Had a big hole. They mesh perfectly with the sub.
I crossed them and the sub at 55. Put common's Be (intro) on.
https://youtu.be/hJwAkpfcEj4

The stand up bass was really accurate. Then I put some jungle on.

https://youtu.be/xzv0LBPK5jE

The rolling bass would roll low and back to the sub a bit, its 3 feet from my head after all and pitch up and back forward disappearing in the soundstage. Epic.

I crossed at 60, the mids were working a bit too hard I felt and 60 seemed to be a good blend. I will have to play with that. And I need to tune them too. But damn, I could totally live with it the way it is. I need to enjoy this for a few weeks before the gb25 come in so I can appreciate each upgrade.

Havent even mounted the gb10s yet. I need the rings to come in.
 
Julian said:
Just got them in. Big smiles. Like a totally new system. The mids I had were really bad. They could not keep up with the w7. Had a big hole. They mesh perfectly with the sub.
I crossed them and the sub at 55. Put common's Be (intro) on.
https://youtu.be/hJwAkpfcEj4

The stand up bass was really accurate. Then I put some jungle on.

https://youtu.be/xzv0LBPK5jE

The rolling bass would roll low and back to the sub a bit, its 3 feet from my head after all and pitch up and back forward disappearing in the soundstage. Epic.

I crossed at 60, the mids were working a bit too hard I felt and 60 seemed to be a good blend. I will have to play with that. And I need to tune them too. But damn, I could totally live with it the way it is. I need to enjoy this for a few weeks before the gb25 come in so I can appreciate each upgrade.

Havent even mounted the gb10s yet. I need the rings to come in.
Click to expand...

I am appreciating your choices of demo songs so far......out of the norm.
 
Purchased an amp rack from sounds good. $150 shipped seemed like a bargain considering what the sheets sell for shipped and the time it would take me to template and cut something that would not be of as high a quality.
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/2015-ford-f-series-custom-made-amplifier-rack-plate

I hooked my phoenix gold m100 up to the GB60s. I want to A/B them. I think the little Sony class D amp sounds cleaner and faster transient response, but less impact. Like a featherweight fighter vs a heavyweight. But I will tune and level match and see. Right now I prefer the Sony after listening to them both.

I will also run wire to my A-pillars for the GB25s.

As for the amp racks, my plan is to mount the fuse block and my DC 2.0k on the back wall in the sounds good rack. Then a small piece of blown 1/2" pvc for the dsp on the same back wall, but opposite side of truck. Then a small rack from blown pvc under the rear seat for the Sony amp and the M100.

Im trying to keep the sounds good rack for the components I am keeping long term. This way if I swap amps I dont have all these extra holes in the amp rack driving me nuts.
 
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