Don't laugh. 2016 Porsche Macan BOSE sub-woofer amp

G

Ge0

Noob
Some may laugh under their breath when they hear the word BOSE. However, their modern OEM car audio stuff ain't perfect, but it ain't that bad. Take a look at this little amp that delivers a solid 200W to a 2 ohm sub-woofer. It is roughly the size of two Google Pixel 2 phones stacked on top of each other. Here the amp is compared to my giant sausage finger hand. Keep in mind that is an 8" sub next to it:

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Here are its rough dimensions once removed from it's enclosure:
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And here is the harness connecting to it. Notice that the black and red wires are primary power. They are 12 gage cables! This amp is so efficient that it doesn't need more:
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Are you ready to crack it open?

Ge0
 
Here is the heat sink with 4 screws and PCB removed. Notice that there is only a small area with thermal compound applied under the minimal fin stack:
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Here is the top side of the PCB. The ONLY component that needs serious cooling is the amplifier output ASIC. This is a 300W max integrated solution from Texas Instruments. It is so efficient that it only needs a 3/4" x 1/2" contact patch for its small heat slug on top of the package. This is freaking spectacular. Amps just a few years ago required 10" of heat sink to dissipate this amount of power due to inefficiency. What is more amazing is that the tracking power supply only needs minimal cooling at the edges of the PCB where you see the exposed copper. The power supply used to consume 1/4 to 1/2 of the heat sinks cooling capacity in older amps. It now needs next to nothing:
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The bottom side is nothing special. More heat sinking at the outer edges for the power supply
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For those of you who are wondering, the two large black rectangle things on the board are surface mount inductors that filter out high frequency crap prior to the final multi-stage class D amplifier output. They used to be large torriods in older amp designs. In more modern designs these aren't even needed. The size of the filtering capacitors has been reduced to nothing due to the much higher switching frequencies.

in summary, I've been an electronics engineer for over 20 years. I have a passion for car audio. I've designed my share of amps (Kicker ZR / ZX series + Soundstream stuff) and have an idea what tech is available. I left the trade 10+ years ago to pursue other interests. This latest advancement in technology has me sporting wood. Multi-channel amplifiers like the latest Audison, Helix, and Match series are extremely powerful for their package size. It's hard to believe that what used to take up most of your trunk and dissipate tons of heat can now be reduced into something as small as a pack of cigarettes or a few phones stacked on top of each other and run just warm.

Mind you the new solutions may generate a little more distortion as your classic A or A/B designs. But, if your are listening to .MP3 or streaming audio from online this is no longer a valid point. Your music source generates much more distortion as your tiny amps :). Enough said ...

Ge0
 
The Bose system in what vehicle? Their systems vary big time from vehicle to vehicle. It all depends on the price point the OEM was trying to hit vs. the trade off in quality at that price point. I've heard Bose systems in Cayman and 911 that were absolute garbage. However, the one in my Macan is almost tolerable. It actually does an excellent job playing back multi-channel DVD audio. But, that's a dying standard with not a lot of content to chose from.

Even though this Bose system ain't that bad I can't live with it and am removing it. That's why I'm showing these Gut Shots :)

Ge0
 
Porsche said:
dunno about quality, the bose system sucks IMO
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I don't believe Bose sound quality limitations are due to inferior hardware. I believe their sound quality issues are more a function off pure crap drivers and less than stellar tuning. Check this out:

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This is an average of 10 measurements using a binaural mic and filtered to 1/3rd octave. Bass and treble controls were set to 0. The result is booming bass and a significant suck-out at 1KHz. They have a decent DSP built into their amps. Don't you think they could have tamed the bass down a bit and addressed the dip at 1KHz?

Ge0
 
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Ge0 said:
I don't believe Bose sound quality limitations are due to inferior hardware. I believe their sound quality issues are more a function off pure crap drivers and less than stellar tuning. Check this out:
View attachment 10185

This is an average of 10 measurements using a binaural mic and filtered to 1/3rd octave. Bass and treble controls were set to 0. The result is booming bass and a significant suck-out at 1KHz. They have a decent DSP built into their amps. Don't you think they could have tamed the bass down a bit and addressed the dip at 1KHz?

Ge0
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Ive worked at the BOSE research and development center in Framingham MA. I saw some amazing things there but I also saw how they use regular cheap full range drivers and EQ the crap out of them to achieve something you wouldn’t normally be able to achieve. Slogan, “better sound through research” is for real there. Some of the engineers working there were real spoiled snobs too and some where pretty decent.
 
While I agree that your factory system shouldn't fail you so quickly, I also understand the desire to upgrade.


You need to get a signal out of your factory infotainment system. A DSP is the device you need. If you want to do speakers and subs, you'll want at least 6 channels, but more likely 8 or 10 (so you can replace all factory speakers) check out the Helix by Audiotec Fischer. Then amplifiers, you can go nice and small with some JL HD or XD you'll want 8 channels (probably) for speakers, plus a sub amp, two HD 600/4 and a HD 750/1 or an XD 800/8 and an XD 600/1. Pick some speakers, JL makes great speakers, active 3 way components for the fronts and passive components for the rears, I'd suggest C5 range. Hertz and Focal are also highly regarded brands. Now, you want a good sub that doesnt need a ton of space, go for a JL 13TW5 in a custom enclosure. A good shop could build something that blends in completely.


Say you go for the lower range (XD) amps, the C5 speakers, 13TW5 sub, and the Helix DSP.


XD600/1 - $500
XD800/8 - $830
C5-653 - $930
C5-650 - $570
13TW5 - $680
Helix DSP - $1200


You could go with passive fronts, and you don't need 3 way fronts (although you have 3 way fronts stock), that would cut down on some cost and allow you to use a cheaper DSP maybe save $750 on equipment. You could run lower range speakers, again save $500. But, if you start chipping away too much, I'd be concerned that you aren't getting a big enough upgrade from stock to make it worth while.
 
viewcart said:
While I agree that your factory system shouldn't fail you so quickly, I also understand the desire to upgrade.


You need to get a signal out of your factory infotainment system. A DSP is the device you need. If you want to do speakers and subs, you'll want at least 6 channels, but more likely 8 or 10 (so you can replace all factory speakers) check out the Helix by Audiotec Fischer. Then amplifiers, you can go nice and small with some JL HD or XD you'll want 8 channels (probably) for speakers, plus a sub amp, two HD 600/4 and a HD 750/1 or an XD 800/8 and an XD 600/1. Pick some speakers, JL makes great speakers, active 3 way components for the fronts and passive components for the rears, I'd suggest C5 range. Hertz and Focal are also highly regarded brands. Now, you want a good sub that doesnt need a ton of space, go for a JL 13TW5 in a custom enclosure. A good shop could build something that blends in completely.


Say you go for the lower range (XD) amps, the C5 speakers, 13TW5 sub, and the Helix DSP.


XD600/1 - $500
XD800/8 - $830
C5-653 - $930
C5-650 - $570
13TW5 - $680
Helix DSP - $1200


You could go with passive fronts, and you don't need 3 way fronts (although you have 3 way fronts stock), that would cut down on some cost and allow you to use a cheaper DSP maybe save $750 on equipment. You could run lower range speakers, again save $500. But, if you start chipping away too much, I'd be concerned that you aren't getting a big enough upgrade from stock to make it worth while.
Click to expand...

Have you seen my build log here by any chance :)?

Ge0
 
Thanks Geo for the nice write-up!
Hoping that you can help me facilitate the installation of this Bose subwoofer/amp. assy into my 2015 Macan S which came without a subwoofer.
I bought this Bose assy used and it arrived with a hacked up wiring harness ( looks like someone ran a different amp to power the sub).
As a result I have flying leads from the original 12 pin connector ( 7 used, 5 unused).
Do you have a pinout for the connector ? I can't see where they integrate to the car or the other amp located in left rear fender ( which you analyzed in another post).
Also , Porsche NA has not been able to source this harness as a stand-alone part ( UPC looks like 75022172808).
Please help!
Thanks in advance,
Steve
 
I am so very sorry to hear that- I am learning that he was a great contributor here.
I'm sure he will be missed as a good person and good forum member.
Again, very sorry .
Steve
 
Super cool stuff. I'm curious how that little Bose sub actually sounded. The whole package is tiny, not just the amp!

You are making me regret buying my compact DLS amp trio for my 8 channels plus sub - I was leaning HARD towards an RF Power T1000x5ad 5 channel and T400x4 4 channel, which were each not much bigger than that Bose amp there - and supposedly far exceed specs in SQ and even power. Crazy. And I think, cool.

(EDIT - just scrolled up and saw the comment that Geo passed away? That's shocking, tragic. Sad to hear - that's actually true? So sad.)
 
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