Chit's Moosetang

Wheels are on... the car looks way too tall now. Need to order some lowering springs now, and new struts.

51064492437_65b780f1ae_c.jpg


51063693118_540bd04db6_c.jpg


Had to order a new grille emblem since I broke the tail off the horse :daniel: Should be here in a few days

51063693083_a9f9f1543a_c.jpg
Have a look at Eibach ProKit springs and Viking adjustable struts/shocks or Tokico Illumina's.
 
Ok thank you! I've heard good things about Eibach Pro springs, but not so good things about their shocks and struts. Was also considering the Koni STR.T strut/shock kit, but most are saying get the Bilstein instead.

Will definitely look into the Viking and Tokico.
 
Wheels are on... the car looks way too tall now. Need to order some lowering springs now, and new struts.





Had to order a new grille emblem since I broke the tail off the horse :daniel: Should be here in a few days

51063693083_a9f9f1543a_c.jpg

The rear needs wheels spacers, I'm guessing 3/4", to bring it flush with the body like the front is. ;)

Lookin good, man!
 
The rear needs wheels spacers, I'm guessing 3/4", to bring it flush with the body like the front is. ;)

Lookin good, man!

Thank you! I've definitely considered those. Can't help but think the car looks like this sitting inside the rear fenders like they are:

71JcSqpipfL._AC_SR700,525_.jpg
 
Thank you! I've definitely considered those. Can't help but think the car looks like this sitting inside the rear fenders like they are:

I've put spacers on sooooo many cars and it's amazing the difference it makes in the stance. It looks like the front is even, but the back sits way in... Kinda like a CanAm spyder! lol

iu
 
Man, now you are making me itch for a project car... Grrrrrr... resist, resist, resist!

Two of my good buddies/neighbors got project cars and BOTH of them need me to help them with the build, because I am the neighborhood idiot who has the tools and knows how. SMH
 
Ok thank you! I've heard good things about Eibach Pro springs, but not so good things about their shocks and struts. Was also considering the Koni STR.T strut/shock kit, but most are saying get the Bilstein instead.

Will definitely look into the Viking and Tokico.

I work with a 2004 Cobra owning nutjob that swears by Bilstein, I swear by the ability to tune to my car and preferences, hence my suggestions for shocks/struts. The Eibach ProKit springs are PROgressive rate that provide a nicer ride (a bit like air bags) but still have plenty of stiffness for hard driving.
 
Wow, I didn't expect them to both be the same size. Did you get the stickerz off the side of the box?
 
I uhhh... got what's left of them :(

There was a slash cut into the envelope, and both stickers have a gash through the U and D of audio - found out a minute ago it's from one of the mounting feet on the amp. Looks like it punched through the box from the inside, through the envelope, and bent a little bit.

I can fix it though!
 
I uhhh... got what's left of them :(

There was a slash cut into the envelope, and both stickers have a gash through the U and D of audio - found out a minute ago it's from one of the mounting feet on the amp. Looks like it punched through the box from the inside, through the envelope, and bent a little bit.

I can fix it though!

What the chit? Let's get some amps hooked up and makes some speakers go boom!!
 
Ordered a rear shock tower brace, which is ironic to me since the shocks bolt to the little humps near the floor in front of the spare tire well. Guessing that rear hump brace just sounded funny, so they decided to call them towers instead.

Anywho, should be here Wednesday:

lrs-rstbrc_ac74b06c.jpg


Reason being - that brace goes right through the spot I was hoping to mount either the subwoofer or amplifiers. Working on a new plan now - but need the brace in to get some more measurements and then can move forward with the amps and sub installation.
 
The rear needs wheels spacers, I'm guessing 3/4", to bring it flush with the body like the front is. ;)

Guess what I found out! So, the 8.8" Ford axle in the Mustangs progressively stepped out a bit wider from the Fox Body through the SN95 and into the New Edge body styles. The '86-'93 Mustangs have 29.063-inch axles, and the rear end is 59.25 inches from axle flange to axle flange. The '94-'98 axles are 0.75 inches longer (the rear end is 1.5 inches wider overall). The '99-'04 axles are another 0.75 inches longer (the flange-to-flange width is 3 inches wider than with '79-'93 Mustangs)

Sooo... went on the hunt for a '99-'04 rear end, and might have found one. The guy that owns a local Mustang graveyard knew of a fellow Mustang owner trying to do a 5-lug swap into their Fox Body, and has a New Edge axle. They are just a pain to fit being so much wider, and were looking for an SN95 axle. Looks like we may do an even trade - it's a win-win for us both! Will definitely update progress with that. Should push those wheels out further towards the fenders, without the need for spacers.



The rear shock brace arrived yesterday too. After some test fits, don't see it affecting the install at all. If anything, might bring the amp rack a bit closer to the rear seat, but that's about it.
 
Front wheel hubs have been ordered. They seem a bit... squeaky? Best way to say it. Sounds like a grocery cart going down the road. At least when diving in that far to do the hubs, can find out exactly how much more needs replaced underneath to keep her up to date and maintained.


Alright then, ON TO THE AUDIO!!!

My parts guy sourced a set of those Mach 460 sail panel speaker pods. Will definitely make installing those tweeters a lot easier. Plus more factory appearing too.

51116104904_655532884f_c.jpg


Also, not sure if I said this anywhere, but the 12v cig plug thingies, yanked both out. There was one by the E-brake below the armrest, and one below the radio in front of the shifter. Pulled those, plucked the wiring, tossed em.

Decided to replace them with USB ports. The radio has a cable attached to it with a single USB input. Kenwood recommends not using any extenders or other ports or whatnot, so I'm thinking it's best to try and use that cable input directly for the best usability. But how... about... a bottlecap? Hey, that's what I was thinking too. Found one that fits right around the cutout. Few minutes with a razor blade and some JB Plasticwelder, we'll see what happens:

51115889302_2c03f0d3b1_c.jpg


51116205884_4cc496acf5_c.jpg


Used a bit of alcohol to remove the cigarette symbol off the door that hides it too:

51115900267_250970d0c1_c.jpg


51115900277_eaf419a55f_c.jpg


The other 12V plug location, will just be installing a charging port, as the Kenwood didn't have a 2nd USB input. No biggie, at least we'll have an additional port to charge phones or tablets or whatever:

51117261625_8e1734b013_c.jpg
 
USB cable fit perfectly, and looks pretty good to me:

51119154445_f7d05f3240_c.jpg


51118359766_56f59f21a5_c.jpg


Keep eyeballing that factory shifter while doing this project... and happened to find one of these locally for a crazy price. Like almost 1/3 of what they cost new. And this one... is still new:

51118113734_5c55d44604_c.jpg


51119154440_69e21d7c33_c.jpg


Might be a while before swapping that out though. Would be much easier to wait until I pull the seat and console and carpet to run wires for the audio. Plus, that red O/D off button just isn't... you know. Need to find something different for that spot.
 
Just realized I hadn't updated this thread in a while.

Went ahead and started on modifying those Mach 460 sail panel pods.

Took them all apart to see how exactly would we make those XS28 tweeters fit:

51121589005_50d85336fe_c.jpg


Baffle was my immediate idea, but that means the domes would touch the stock grille:

51120226382_362b1f81c5_c.jpg


Thought about using a PVC cap or something similar that recesses the tweeter further into the sail panel pod, but while messing around with the pieces... discovered this:

51120226152_c12061d439_c.jpg


The XS28 mounting rings just barely fit inside the factory cutout. I mean, almost perfectly. Enough for some Plasticwelder on the backside to secure them. Let's try it!

51120797316_681882e816_c.jpg


Doubled up on the frontside after the backside adhesive cured:

51163679773_f4b1d2cb40_c.jpg


Tweeters fit right in there!

51164219954_05656a2c7c_c.jpg
 
Some quick tidying of the wires and added connectors:

51163671978_dca0593627_c.jpg


They bolted right to the factory location:

51163988589_dc3cb5ecd3_c.jpg


Obligatory door panel removed shot:

51162538962_70de2fcf97_c.jpg


Should be fairly easy to dampen that door. Went ahead and ordered some of those NVX silicone baffles too. Will run wires before installing the woofers. Shouldn't have any clearance issues with them:

51164537380_7a5eb55908_c.jpg


Had to trim the door panel though in order to fit the pods. It isn't as clean as I hoped, but will fix it when rewrapping the upper panel later on:

51162539152_7d6af62e8b_c.jpg


And here we go:

51163989514_183d9ed262_c.jpg
 
Back
Top