Chit's Moosetang

[chithead]

Who's ready for another meh, maybe, might, probably not, tried it traded it sold it, wish I woulda kept it - build log!!!

Cool.

Let's do this.

I'd like to introduce a new to me (and to you) - 1998 Mustang GT. Specs that I know so far are - 4.6L 2V, "modular" engine from the Romeo plant, 4R70W automatic transmission, Bright Atlantic Blue paint, Medium Graphite interior, Premium audio option, and a whole heap of things to work on. After all, it's a Mustang, right? Right.

Looks better when she's wet though...

Wife said I'm not allowed to let it junk up the driveway though, so had to spend a weekend cleaning out the garage:

 

[chithead]

First thing's first... with the check engine light on, odometer not turning, tires dry rotted, trunk hinge with a broken strut mount and the trunk leaking...

Let's change the radio!!!

What a mess. This is what was inside the dash:

Just a garbled bundle of wires all over. And this is how I found out it's the, "Premium" option - with a separate Tape player/Radio, CD Player below, and a small amp mounted the floor in front of the shifter:

But... based on what I saw here, looked like there is a possibility I could remove most of that harness, and pieces for a much cleaner install:

And yup, turns out that worked quite well:

And guess what? With a few snips... we don't even have to buy adapters. Can make our own from what was pulled out:

Metra makes a dash kit for these cars too (Metra part number 95-5703B) that allows mounting a double din with just a few snips of two brackets, and relocating the vents to the new kit. Fit quite well actually:

The head unit I decided on is a Kenwood DMX706S - this was mostly chosen due to cost, and I do like Kenwood, but also the 3-way active crossover capability. Pioneer had this option as well, and it is a really nice feature to have even if it the tuning is kind of basic. But since a simple tweeter, woofer, subwoofer setup would be the best way for me in this car, this Kenwood DMX706S should work nicely. Can always add a processor later if desired.

 

[chithead]

Guess now we can start on some maintenance stuff. Odometer was an easy fix (and one of the check engine light codes) - $13 part off Amazon, and about an hour later. That was because I decided to paint the needles though.

Uhhhh, is it supposed to be like that?

Installed new gears, and painted those needles transparent red instead of orange:

 

[Notloudenuf]

Ah yeah gimme that sweet sweet moose tang

 

[chithead]

Next thing, identify trunk leak, replace broken hinge, and see what we can do about subwoofers:

Ewwww:

Got some cleaning to do:

Looks like IB/Trunk baffle could definitely be an option:

There is also quite a bit of room to do a single 12" firing up from an enclosure under the rear deck, or possibly a pair of 10" ported:

 

[chithead]

Found a guy locally that has a ton of used Mustang parts. Sourced a set of matching trunk hinges, battery tray, and center console foglight switch.

Also decided to finally use those Stinger battery terminals I've had since the WRX days:

Will continue to do more maintenance things as time and funds allow. Already installed O2 sensors, heater hoses, and belt tensioner. Still have to put on the new spark plug wires and plugs. And of course change some fluids and such.

 

[chithead]

Will keep debating on sub options until it's time to sell the car and move on.

I'm kidding! Never tried a trunk baffle before, and it seems interesting. Quite simple to do too. Plus, could potentially power the entire setup with a single five channel amplifier.

But then again, one of my favorite setups was with a single 12" subwoofer in a sealed enclosure. Paired with a tweeter/woofer - was an amazing combination.

Already picked out the speakers - Image Dynamics XS57 components:

Used Image Dynamics XS speakers before, and REALLY like them. They should fit right into the doors with no problems, but I'll have to modify the sail panels if deciding to put the tweeters there.

Hoped I could just cut a hole and flush mount the XS28 tweeters, but uhhhh... no:

 

[chithead]

I know Mustang had the Mach audio option as an upgrade, and supposedly these sails will fit, but with minor modifications at the bottom:

 

[Notloudenuf]

The sedan versions of my car come with a-pillar pods, mine being a coupe though those easy breezy conversions don't fit.
Hope yours fit

 

[goatpanda]

Looks like a fun project! Just my own opinion, but if you get the Mach pods to fit, cut-out the factory plastic grill behind the fabric mesh if you can. I've discovered that factory plastic tweeter grills are very restrictive and murder the treble, this has been the case in both my Golf and my Nissan Frontier work truck (the Frontier was particularly surprising, making my own fabric tweeter grills to replace the factory plastic ones in the dash made a huge improvement with the Dayton ND28f tweets I'm using).

 

[chithead]

That is good advice, I will definitely consider that if purchasing those pods and modifying them. Grabbing two PVC caps from the home improvement store seems like a much cheaper and potentially better option though. I don't mind learning how to fab them in there and mold to look factory with some filler.

 

[Glenn]

That bad boy is screaming for that pair of GZ 15's IB!!

 

[SublimeZ]

Moosetang Blues, I dig it

That bad boy is screaming for that pair of GZ 15's IB!!

you'll never get a better chance...

 

[chefhow]

I had a 94 Cobra with ID HLCD and ID6's in the doors, a pair of 15's all off a 6 channel Fultron Belle amp

 

[BenevolentDictator]

Cosign

Moosetang Blues, I dig it




you'll never get a better chance...

 

[chithead]

I had a 94 Cobra with ID HLCD and ID6's in the doors, a pair of 15's all off a 6 channel Fultron Belle amp

15's in an enclosure, or trunk baffle? Tried reading everything I could last night regarding trunk baffles versus enclosures and such.

So far the consensus is trunk baffles do work, but not as good as they can when facing the seats? That was a shocker. Like 90% of the IB/trunk baffle builds you see have them facing the seats. I guess it can create a bandpass effect when they face into the seats, which is why a lot of them get a rep for having a very limited bandwidth, and typically not having the best response over 40Hz?

Of course it is all install dependent. Apparently the, "best" way to do a trunk baffle is having as open a space as possible into the cabin. Which would typically mean rear deck - but I've also read that pushing too large a cone area through too small of a cutout from the factory can also create a bandpass. Which means without cutting metal, could be limited to much smaller subs - and that kind of negates the idea of more cone area for a trunk baffle to wring the most potential out of it.

Got some more homework to do. Still leaning towards a trunk baffle - it would be such an easier install (and they always look so nice). Just want it to be as smooth and natural and have the highest performance possible, with no loss or dips between the subwoofers and the 5x7 mids going into the front doors.

 

[jrwalte]

I'd assume when saying 'trunk baffle' you'd still seal the trunk from the cabin with a wall behind the seats? Otherwise the backwave is coming through the seats.

 

[Notloudenuf]

15's in an enclosure, or trunk baffle? Tried reading everything I could last night regarding trunk baffles versus enclosures and such.

So far the consensus is trunk baffles do work, but not as good as they can when facing the seats? That was a shocker. Like 90% of the IB/trunk baffle builds you see have them facing the seats. I guess it can create a bandpass effect when they face into the seats, which is why a lot of them get a rep for having a very limited bandwidth, and typically not having the best response over 40Hz?

Of course it is all install dependent. Apparently the, "best" way to do a trunk baffle is having as open a space as possible into the cabin. Which would typically mean rear deck - but I've also read that pushing too large a cone area through too small of a cutout from the factory can also create a bandpass. Which means without cutting metal, could be limited to much smaller subs - and that kind of negates the idea of more cone area for a trunk baffle to wring the most potential out of it.

Got some more homework to do. Still leaning towards a trunk baffle - it would be such an easier install (and they always look so nice). Just want it to be as smooth and natural and have the highest performance possible, with no loss or dips between the subwoofers and the 5x7 mids going into the front doors.

You're my boy Chit but damn do you love to overthink stuff. Build the IB baffle and love it.

 

[chithead]

I'd assume when saying 'trunk baffle' you'd still seal the trunk from the cabin with a wall behind the seats? Otherwise the backwave is coming through the seats.

You got it - looks like anyone who calls it, "infinite" baffle is immediately corrected that it is just a, "trunk" baffle, as the volume is still limited and not infinite.

 

[chefhow]

15's in an enclosure, or trunk baffle? Tried reading everything I could last night regarding trunk baffles versus enclosures and such.

So far the consensus is trunk baffles do work, but not as good as they can when facing the seats? That was a shocker. Like 90% of the IB/trunk baffle builds you see have them facing the seats. I guess it can create a bandpass effect when they face into the seats, which is why a lot of them get a rep for having a very limited bandwidth, and typically not having the best response over 40Hz?

Of course it is all install dependent. Apparently the, "best" way to do a trunk baffle is having as open a space as possible into the cabin. Which would typically mean rear deck - but I've also read that pushing too large a cone area through too small of a cutout from the factory can also create a bandpass. Which means without cutting metal, could be limited to much smaller subs - and that kind of negates the idea of more cone area for a trunk baffle to wring the most potential out of it.

Got some more homework to do. Still leaning towards a trunk baffle - it would be such an easier install (and they always look so nice). Just want it to be as smooth and natural and have the highest performance possible, with no loss or dips between the subwoofers and the 5x7 mids going into the front doors.

Mine were in a small enclosure that took up most of the trunk from what I remember


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