Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

[geolemon]

Jaws took a bite out of your amp rack?

The template, yes - shark got it lol

That's the sub box side - the curve is where it curves around the sub baffle.

Hoping to get the routing done tonight, it'll be more clear - but here's a pic for reference - that's the right side panel, sub enclosure:

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[geolemon]

I didn't get to routing it tonight, because I didn't have the right oversize bearing for my straight cut bit. I don't have a local shop for a specialty item like that, so...
...i decided to 3D print a plastic wheel to make the right oversize bearing for my need:

While that was printing, I gave my passive Xovers a test run on the listening rig that's still holding my speakers.

Tomorrow I should be able to get the routing done, now that I've got my bits ready.

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[geolemon]

Test run on a scrap to figure out depth -

I started at 1/4", first with the straight cut to clear out the center - with the wheel I printed sized exactly to half the width of the concave bit:

Then the curves:

But I was thinking right away, that seems too deep.

So I grabbed a washer, and they definitely aren't 1/4". They are actually just less than 3/8":

So let's try 3/8 -

Yes, that's better. 3/8 (or a hair under, even) will be good. Will look proper with the cutouts exactly the thickness of the washers, I think.

So here's the "sealed box" lid on top of the amp rack lid.

Still need to cut the window and fan controller into the amp rack lid and router that from below, and then in the identical swappable box lid, cut (and probably router) the two 12" passive radiator holes.

 

[geolemon]

Not quite sure if I'm going to try to reverse mount and router my 12" PR holes, but either way I should use my circle cutter. I'll knock those out later - but I'm afraid if I start going down that path I'll be compelled to also router recesses for those bolts. We'll see. Worth sleeping on, for now. Here's at least where the holes will be:

I cut and routered the window frame and a DIN size opening for the fan control touch panel. I used a 1/4" roundover and didn't sink it all the way, so it has a sharp line around the top - but that means I'll have to hand sand those corners:

Plus, you can see my cheap 3/8" rabbet bit is shot, by all the burn marks - and that left me with a couple digs (left side, right by my table hold down strip) that I'll have to address by hand too - but mostly fine:

I really want the glass mounted without visible fasteners - have several options, just need to pick one that won't get in the way of the lighting inside.

So it's getting somewhere:

The panel below installed for "sealed mode" (which I imagine I'll prefer for everyday use):

One last detail to this panel before finishing, that I'm not looking forward to - it's even tough to capture in the photo:

I've already modified the fan controller so the chassis is smaller and the one circuit board will mount in the amp rack - but to get this to set flush will be fun...
I don't think I have a router bit that will cut such a tiny rabbet - it's like 1/16". So I'll probably have to hand cut that, to get this to set flush.

I'm almost regretting not cutting the opening wider, and then gluing thin strips recessed to the right depth. Oh well.

 

[geolemon]

I decided to recess the PRs into the top of the panel, BUT...

...I drew my cutouts based on the cutout diameter, and measured 1/2 of the rubber gasket.

However, now that I've cut it and used the 1/2 rabbet, you can see the rubber gasket overlaps the center of the gap.
.

So, I've got to either remake the passive radiator panel, or else try to modify it to push the two PRs apart, without making what's going to be an uneven recess gap be TOO obvious.

I'm leaning towards remaking it entirely. I prefer the look when the recess is tight.

EDIT:
I drew it out and it's only 1/8" in each direction (see the blue arrow pointing to the pencil line) - I'll move it back on the spindle sander and I still have the rabbet on the router table, so I'll modify it and see how it looks.

This panel is just for fun so I shouldn't be as worried about cosmetics as I am the sealed box panel that I'll actually use daily.

EDIT 2:
So I used the spindle sander then a curved block with a piece of 60 grit to get the inner circle to the new location, then the 1/2" rabbet on the router and...
... they fit their new 1/8" oversized holes.
They are pretty clearly not centered in their recesses, but I keep telling myself - "this panel is just for occasional fun". Maybe one-time fun, who knows.
Anyway - it's lost the cool 'fitted' look of a proper recess - but I've seen worse.

Whether this or a new panel, I have one brace I'll need to add below and between the two PRs, and it'll be done, other than the finishing.

 

[geolemon]

Cut the plexi for the amp rack window:

Recessed the fan controller so the display window/door is flush with the amp rack.

Really putting off getting to that body filler on the upper chamber - oh the sanding that is to come... [emoji38]

There's a few imperfections on these three panels also, so I'm hitting all those spots with filler to finish these off first.

 

[geolemon]

It's not nearly as bad as auto body work - but still lots of rounds of filling and sanding until its smooth and seamless.

I also drilled the holes here for my wiring - I need to get the gear in here for weight, so I can get the motor linkage dialed in right, and I think I'm going to need a strut assist so I need to size that. All this bodywork is in the critical path...

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[geolemon]

Linear actuator is figured out... More "linear" than any I've done before - zero linkage. 1:1. Totally linear. Literally. [emoji38]

I loaded up the rack with everything to get a full-weight test:

This one is apparently strong enough to lift the rack even without the strut:
Video:https://photos.app.goo.gl/4NZKAD3FCBLwh3ZD8

But it's faster on the way down and has a slight push to the left (would be less noticeable if had more than 4 screws in the piano hinge):
Video:https://photos.app.goo.gl/8Nav6pd5ESjhmUUL8

Here's the bung where the gas/spring strut will attach to help lift it. Glad to see technically it's not needed, beyond balancing the left/right forces. If I knew that I might have mounted the motor against the left wall - I guess I still could but that will complicate getting the wiring to the left CCi44.

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[geolemon]

Since I had the bodywork mostly done, I thought I was going to get through my finishing of the lower parts this weekend - but we had humidity, rain, and wind, and I can't spray in this garage. Boo.

However I thought I'd share this tip for anyone who's struggled giving MDF a painted finish:

Sanding sealer! Why?

Well-
MDF is like a sponge, especially the edges - and anywhere you router out.
Although I like smearing wood filler across the edges, this works similarly for more difficult spots you don't want to risk changing the shape on.

Then you can prime and paint, without it endlessly soaking up your filler primer.

Moving on...

Since I managed to get through the priming but didn't get to the painting, I was staring at this sealed panel and thinking it still looks too boring.
Had an idea for a detail - so let's make another router template...

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[geolemon]

I think I'm happy with it. Can't wait to see these pieces black.

Funny thing is - I picked up that badge for my '95 civic a couple years ago, though long ago - like... '96 [emoji38] I debadged the 95:
(Pardon today's router dust)

I like that it's the 5th gen "Civic" script on this badge, going on the system in my '17 Civic...
...that 5th gen Civic has always been 'my audio car' so it's like passing the baton.

Though any Honda guy is just going to go "you did the wrong year badge!" [emoji38]

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[geolemon]

I didn't have much time today, so I did a little scoping out to plan my approach to the important part:

WAS hoping to orient them like this, but that's just a big driver and a small pillar:

So I'll have to give it a tilt. No other option, really.

The Bohlender Graebner Neo3PDR panels should fit, but also will have their tricky aspects.

Where I thought the [super] tweeter could squeeze in between like I had been playing with in the basement rig, now I'm not so certain...

But am glad it'll only be playing from 10khz and up, since it could end up landing in a non-ideal spot. TBD.

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[geolemon]

Can start to imagine what the finished product will look like.

At least when the carpeted floor cover is lifted up... Hatch will look stock other than the sub in the corner.

Can't wait to see these bolted on with the fat aluminum hardware.
View attachment 16371

 

[geolemon]

Had a 4-day camp camping getaway with the fiancee - so no progress until today.

Thought I'd finally get the top piece done. I really won't have too much bodywork. Most of this tucks unto the well so you can't see it.

Sadly - i've been sitting on this little container of "Bondo Gold" which is no Rage Gold on a good day - but it's clearly not fresh. It was a bear to mix and there's lumps - so, tomorrow I'll hit up a parts store and finish the job.

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[geolemon]

It's been humid so I hope to get some spraying in, later in the week.
Keep in mind, really only the round protruding section is going to be visible, so that'sall that really needed smoothing. It'll have a matching fine-grain bedliner finish to the lower panels, it'll all match soon enough.

Speaking of which, I haven't mounted the glass yet, but mounted up the amps and DSP to start the wiring and lighting - and thought I'd throw a couple bolts in to preview the look.

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[geolemon]

The good news first -
It was decent out, humidity down to 70%... good enough for filler primer. Things are looking smooth, although it looks like I filled my grille screw holes on the right side. Oh well, no biggie.
View attachment 16400

But what WILL make you crap your pants?
The bad news.

It started when I made new adaptor rings for the 12W7 and the GTi 12 using the router, today. That's because I simply used a jigsaw for the originals, and also because I thought 1/4" might be better for the W7 (that will buy me another 1/4" of excursion distance behind that grille)

As you can see (they are labeled), I made a new ring from 1/2" MDF for the GTI, marked it, drilled my holes - no problem.

As for the 12W7, I made two to be safe - one from 1/2", one from 1/4".
View attachment 16401
It all went downhill when I went to mark my holes.

I've had this 12W7 for over a decade, but always in climate controlled storage - literally the interior of my house. Never even in my storage unit [which is commercial climate controlled indoor storage] So when I popped the ring and flipped the surround up to mark my holes for the trim rings, I didn't expect this!
View attachment 16402View attachment 16403
They just started to break apart, so easily.

First thought was "I guess I'll be mounting the GTi up first!"
Second thought was "I hope JL has a support service to repair this!"
Third thought was "Shipping alone is going to cost hundreds!" :sad:

But then I found this video on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/3mqi6-pGNdo
And I found the kit that company sells, on their Amazon store:
JL Audio Single 12 Inch 12W7 Foam Speaker Repair Kit
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B009DNM...abc_TACDXCGV4K4ZA7J886N5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Fortunately I've re-coned subwoofers before... Although those were subs from a company I was directly involved with, knew inside and out, was reconing to test different soft parts, and so those wouldn't cost me $1300 to replace it if I screwed it up.

Technically, re-coning is much more involved than this video of replacing this W7's surround... but I'd lying if I didn't say THIS has me more nervous.
Caution will be used...

 

[mumbles]

View attachment 16406

Is it Live or is it Memorex?

BTW, love the attention to detail with the screw grommets, those really spice things up!

 

[geolemon]

To that end, we had a 2 hour period today where humidity dropped to 64%...
Close enough. It's not quite 60%, but after that it's rising and even raining this weekend.
Carpe Sprayum.

Before, the finish wasn't quite consistent across the two panels for the amp rack and sealed box panel, so when I sprayed the upper chamber I also gave those two more thin sprays to even them out.

I think these are decent enough at this point -

...and remember only this much will be visible:

So I didn't need to do bodywork to the rougher looking area behind that.

Don't you miss the cartoon donuts and ice cream cones now? [emoji38]

 

[geolemon]

I think of all the options I've been weighing - I'll attach the window by installing threaded inserts and using fender washers and bolts to hold it on from the perimeter from below.
View attachment 16424
That's partly due to an idea I had for a detail. I thought a frame to hold the glass might add a layer of detail.

So we'll see how this comes out. I'm making this to hide the fasteners, and seems thin enough on the sides to tuck into the overage that I routered out for the glass.
View attachment 16425
I'm hoping this epoxy and filler primer will suffice to fill the seams, sanded it flat with my detail sander after it cured.
View attachment 16426
Primed it just before dark...
View attachment 16427
Painted it in the near dark - hoping this metallic I happened to have on hand will compliment the amps heatsinks and badges.
View attachment 16428
View attachment 16429
I also gave it a coat of clear, even though it won't really need protection, but I thought vibration could warrant it.

 

[geolemon]

Seems like a while, but I've been working, multi-tasking - now I'm at a good point to show results on a few important pieces.

I picked up a roll of highly-rated quad-shield to make my RCAs, wanting to solder both the center conductor and ground shield. What I wasn't thinking of when shopping for RCA barrels, is that the shielding for quad shield is aluminum. All four layers. That meant I had to crimp ferries around my twisted shields before I could solder them. Fortunately - I have small ones that fit tight, so they fit in the barrels.

First, I prepped the barrels and cut the lengths I need to route all these channels in that little amp rack.
Then the dark silver sheathing and heat shrink.

With the flex and shrink, the diameter ended up being JUST too large, so I tinned the connectors then brought them down to the drill press. Believe me I didn't "press" - but this was great for feeding the bits carefully from below. Look at all the metal shaved out.

Then, good hot solder joints that flow, and then I press or push with a small blade flathead wrapped in tape so spouse l solder won't stick, to make good metal-on-metal joints as they cool, so the solder just bonds.

All the work hidden inside.

Repeat times twenty-four.

Felt like it took forever, but now I can assemble the amp rack.



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[geolemon]

As you know the amp rack lid now has a small decorative frame beneath the glass, and the lid itself acts as a frame for the glass...
...which has me feeling a little wasteful of making these custom RCAs. They'll barely be seen, being routed along the walls.

(One amp removed so I can work)

The ends are visible though. This definitely isn't the most flexible wire and I probably should have bought shorter barrels, since I had to break out the heat gun again to pre-bend 90s immediately behind the barrels, on both ends:

I knew this was going to be tricky but didn't anticipate one of the RCAs not routing as I planned. So the routing of the extra slack under the MiniDSP was complicated a bit by that, although I have fewer cable clamps than I was anticipating. I'll probably add more since they'll be hidden anyway.

That one RCA set me back a day or so of problem solving. Basically, when I cut these lengths originally I was planning on running them down the wall in two layers of runs, 3 and 3.

As I was running them though, I thought I'd instead run them up the wall. The reason is to open up more room for air to flow.

That meant I still needed two layers of routing "in", under the DSP though.

The original plan was for the metal bracket [removed in this photo] to hold the RCAs down - but with the tech flex on and their stiffness, they were like a millimeter too thick. When I tried to force the bracket into the screws, I just snapped my MDF riser and had to glue/clamp that back together and touch up the paint.

So I decided to install a couple inserts in the side and make a steel bracket to squeeze that troublesome RCA tight against the others, buying me just enough room at the bend.

Just need to decide now how, and even if, I'll cosmetically finish this bracket. It'll also be hidden by the lid frame.

Fans are in, now need to run the power and speaker wiring on the bottom side.
Besides that - just mount the fan controller, and LED strips and controller, and then basically it'll be ready to go in.

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