Bought the Civic Hatch lease out, so rebooting the install thread

[geolemon]

So the two CCi-44 amps haven't shown up yet, but I have the CC-1000 which is simply longer, so I can use that and a little basic math to lay out the amp rack so everything fits.

It's going to be extremely tight, for this hinged part.

In hindsight, I probably should have opted for shorter RCA cable connectors - I am going to need to buy two right angle RCA ends to make my main long RCA run - that should buy JUST enough room.

It looks like this RCA cable should bend enough without stressing it.

I'm going to design a riser for the miniDSP that has 11 canals in it to route the RCA cable right back under - That will minimize my need to sharply bend my 4 gauge. Possibly I'll design it to also hide the 4 gauge pass-through [to the bottom chamber], but part of my reason for raising the miniDSP is also for air flow from the fan that the miniDSP will be in front of. So we'll see.

I now need to decide whether I'm routing the RCAs under the bottom of the amp rack or down the side on the inside-
I may have just been crowded into deciding to run them through and below.

At least that little rear fill amp won't be a problem.

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[geolemon]

I figured out an amp rack layout that works, and will only require that I buy one pair of right angle RCAs to get the MiniDSP closer to the far wall of the rack.

As mentioned, the miniDSP will be potentially blocking the fan, so I'm putting it up on spacers. That will let air flow above and below, and also am trying to 3D print some cable management. Something didn't print right on the bottom - probably because I only designed 1mm walls trying to maximize airflow - I think it can be salvaged though.

This weekend I was hoping to get all the structures built and at least the lower fiberglassing - but I'm not disappointed with the progress I got this weekend since I had some challenges with the angled well floor and ended up having to tackle yard work.

Got everything test fitting well:

I ordered a stainless piano hinge and some 1/2" plexi for the top that haven't shown up, when it does I'll hinge it up, take some measurements, and decide on struts or an actuator for that lower chamber (power cleaning and distribution) access.

 

[BigAl205]

That looks great!
What are you printing the riser out of? PLA starts to deform at 140 degrees.

 

[geolemon]

I printed it out of PLA. I'm actually interested on if that happens though, so I have been wanting a piece to experiment with.

I picked up black ASA but opened it yet. It's for high-temps...
I got it specifically for printing my A-pillar pods, car interior stuff. Those I definitely don't want to melt.

I'm in Buffalo but we do get into the 90s - interior temps could get hot, plus the fans on that end will be the "out" exhaust fans.
I'm actually really interested in how it fails, if/when it reaches that temp. I made the walls 3mm thick.

You got me thinking though, maybe I will just reprint it in ASA. I can experiment with some of the cable clamps instead of the fundamental support for the brains of the system.

I also have PVA that I haven't tried - and that's one reason I picked up this dual-extruder printer. Maybe it's time to play with that - I can at least use this for mock up.

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[bbfoto]

Yep, that's looking good! :thumbsup:

For amp rack layouts and cable routing I always take the time to make scale 2D models of each component out of cardboard that show all of the various I/O & power connections.

This allows me play with different arrangements for the best layout, and most importantly to visualize how I'll run all of the cabling and make sure I have the necessary clearances. Just some examples I had stashed away in my bin...they aren't marked, but the fused distro block is a Streetwires CBR44M, & the processor in this example is the miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 as well...

View attachment 15877

 

[geolemon]

Today, as I work the day job, I'll be staring at my upper shell and three subs I'll probably be occasionally swapping in.

I need to figure out a baffle angle that will work and have enough angle to still allow that swapping to happen without removing the sub box. Yesterday I cut a cardboard panel, but it's impossible to tell from that.

That pencil line was a guess from a test fitting. I can't get near that angle with the JBL without making a cutout in the back - no biggie if that has to happen, I probably have 2" of room to bump out the back. I hope...
I'd need room to make a cutout, then 'glass in a bump poking out the back.

Today I'll have to mock up something structural enough to test fit [using that ring probably] because they are just too heavy to hold in place.

It's worth a chuckle thinking how overboard we can get in a hobby when your subwoofers are all larger and way heavier than your woofer [emoji38]

 

[diy.phil]

Whoa... even have a security guard for your speakers.

 

[geolemon]

He'll bite your ankles if you go for that pile!

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[dumdum]

Pla melted in my car… in the U.K.! It was warm, but not silly, 20-25 degrees outside I reckon… I’d made tweeter cups on angled brackets and had them aimed between the headrests… I ended up with them aimed at the floor between the seats petg is far more stable in heat

 

[Optimaprime]

love the little sub collection!

 

[geolemon]

Pla melted in my car… in the U.K.! It was warm, but not silly, 20-25 degrees outside I reckon… I’d made tweeter cups on angled brackets and had them aimed between the headrests… I ended up with them aimed at the floor between the seats petg is far more stable in heat

The ASA I picked up is interesting in that you print it - really no different performance than PLA - other than then you can anneal it in the kitchen oven which makes it more heat resistant than ABS.

This is a great vid from a true 3D printing geek, going through more filament types than i even knew existed - and he only covers home-printable plastics here!

https://youtu.be/vSwumoSlZTo

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[geolemon]

So, due to a project deadline I'm managing at my day job that could produce millions in fines if we don't hit a 7/1 deadline - I haven't had much time to work on this. "Evenings and weekends" in full effect last week and this week as well.

Actually - multitasking led me to inadvertently landing in the ER...
I thought I could pop a 3D print off the table between meetings, it slipped, I stabbed myself with a sharpened putty knife in the palm of my hand - I got stitches.

Trying to position these heavy subs to get my baffle angle and location was ALREADY difficult without injury...

So I made a subwoofer analog based on the JBL and W7's dimensions that I can use to test-suspend a baffle with less structure needed.

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[BigAl205]

That's a good idea

 

[Stycker]

I just watched an episode of Horsepower Garage. They use styrofoam engines to see how much space is available in the engine bay, rather than having to hoist the heavy engine in and out all the time.

 

[geolemon]

I can tell already - these subs motors are SO deep, it's going to be tough to find an angle to allow me to swap subs.

I could fire them straight up, but then they'll be trapped so I'd have to remove the whole enclosure and amp rack just to swap the sub...
I'll probably have to relocate the left brace and 'glass a bubble out the backside to allow the sub the angle without eating into my hatch space.

I also don't just want the sub to fire straight in, also because "hatch space" and I don't want things rolling into my sub.

So we'll see where the best compromise angle is, with this fake sub.

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[geolemon]

So I think I have an angle -at least I have found the "most upright" angle I can achieve.
This is a scrap of wood, not the final shape. Just for a test fit:

First picture is the GTi. Rear clearance is good.

Second picture is the W7 - since it has a smaller mounting hole, there will be a spacer ring specific to installing the W7, so it'll actually be 3/4" higher - plenty of rear clearance.

Then up front - with a couple 3/4" spacers and the factory trim loosely in place, I have excursion clearance (and probably will have fun making that panel not buzz [emoji38] )

Now I have to decide if I want to add a little more tilt, though, for the practicality of hatch space.

Damned if I do, damned if I don't:

If I leave it as it is, I'll have a curved front panel that protrudes into the hatch space.

If I add a little tilt, I can get the magnet tucked into the back wall of the box, so less protrusion at the bottom, but of course won't change the protrusion where the actual baffle is up top - but then I'm tilting the cone into the hatch making it more vulnerable to cargo tipping into it.

Decisions, decisions.

 

[geolemon]

And here's as far as I want to tilt it, max -
I still have clearances inside and out.

View from the inside with the hatch closed. The blue tape is about where the hatch floor is.

One disadvantage with this is security - with the "firing up" angle, that side factory trim needs to be removed or that sub won't come out.
At this angle, I can remove the sub without removing the trim. Minor consideration, just losing a "trick".

Maybe halfway between the two is the compromise...

 

[jrwalte]

if people have the time to remove a sub, they have your car in a secure place and in no rush. I wouldn't consider security as a point of how you want to install.

 

[geolemon]

The "fuck it" option-

You don't know until you try - so try.

Now that I see it, I save way more useable hatch space this way, to compensate for the lack of protection.

I always did like this grille I suppose...

 

[geolemon]

if people have the time to remove a sub, they have your car in a secure place and in no rush. I wouldn't consider security as a point of how you want to install.

I like tricks. It's no fun to me to do an install where someone asks a question later and the answer is "oh yeah - didn't think of that." If someone asks "why?" It's more fun to have each detail factor equally into performance, aesthetic, and security.

The best installs in my book consider everything, and compromise nothing, IMO.

I have some security tricks for the amp rack that you will ONLY think are tricks to be extra showy... Stay tuned.

But I think now I might go the boring side-firing route. Which might even motivate me to boring-carpet what was supposed to be a bodyworked and painted finish with a double-roll baffle. Practicality needs to be one of the tricks.

We'll see.

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