2020 Toyota Tacoma SR5-Karma and other stuff

[Notloudenuf]

Here is my next project. This truck will be my daily since I am losing my company car.
The day I picked it up.

I have already started to take it apart, much to my wife's dismay.

There are a couple of mods and a few repair items that the parts will be here tomorrow.
One is this BB shot taillight.

I already have my full LED interior lights installed, I've ordered a bed light kit, some new handles to hold the tonneau down, a new taillight, 3 new center caps, phone holder, and a new serpentine belt and idler pulley.

 

[Notloudenuf]

The stereo plan is up in the air right now. A set of Karma Aspect component set will go in for now. A 10" sub box from Skar (I know) fits in the back with no modification and I'll need amplification and processing, none of which I have.
The Karmas

The proposed Skar box

 

[Notloudenuf]

A twofer image. The bed lights and the tonneau levers

A new taillight

And my phone holder

Not pictured is the new belt and idler pulley I put on last night.

 

[BigAl205]

When is the wall build going to begin?

 

[Stycker]

Forget the wall I want to see some holes getting cut.

 

[Notloudenuf]

The most important mod....right?

I decided to plastidip the Tacoma and SR5 emblems, I think they look much better.

This is pics of the first bath that I gave it. Looking good.

 

[Notloudenuf]

I ordered these silicone speaker baffles. Maybe they'll keep the water off the cone

They come with some eggcrate foam to...do....something

 

[Notloudenuf]

I made the adapters out of some HDPE board I got from somewhere.

I've learned the hard way from several recent projects to TEST FIT a few times during the process. I didn't have to learn that lesson again so I test fit after any change.
A small note on the silicone baffles. This baffle was about 1mm smaller in diameter than my speakers. It had to stretch a little bit. Also, you have to take the silicone thickness into account when cutting the speaker hole out.

Since the truck has some red highlights on the interior I sprayed the baffles red in case you get down and look through the grill holes.

 

[Notloudenuf]

Not much for first impressions because I was busy with the grill right after I put the truck back together. I'm still running factory wideband in the dash so that will limit what I think. I'll listen on my commute this week. I am glad the doors are deadened at least. Closing the doors feels more solid now.
I'm hoping a guy on deemuh will sell his Kicker IQ1000.5. It has the right power, a full processor built in, small form, and in my price range. We shall see.

 

[James Bang]

Seeing the silicone rainguard baffle taper in at the rear of the driver, do you think it'll affect the rear air flow from the basket of the driver?... somewhat choking the driver. It looks like it'll do the opposite of chamfering the rear baffle for drivers to allow for more air flow. If so, maybe cutting the bottom portion for the silicone baffle would help with some airflow but still allowing the water protection from above.

 

[Notloudenuf]

So here are the pieces I have now and what was installed last weekend.

Kicker KEYLOC to act as LOC and it can de-eq anything the factory may have had in the outputs. Kicker iQ 1000.5 has a full built in processor and easy TweEQ software to run it.
Here are the JL 2.75" wideband dash speakers

And them installed

 

[Notloudenuf]

Had to take the factory HU out to get the KEYLOC installed. Also wired up the aftermarket seat heaters while the dash was apart

The underhood fuse holder

The amp was supposed to go this way but it didn't fit between the seat brackets so it got rotated

These wires are cleaned up and loomed but I didn't get a pic of that I guess

 

[Notloudenuf]

Popped out a factory blank panel for the 4-wheel drive versions and cut it out to fit the Kicker bass knob.

The only issue I'm having currently is getting the gain set correctly. If you use the software the gain POT on the amp is disabled. I have moved the "level" slider shown here and its different but the gain on the amp is where the volume is. I have reached out to Kicker and a guy on.....that other place.....who has this amp to see what I'm missing

Also, I am a very neat worker TYVM

And a huge HUGE thank you to my friend @Sleeves for his help (mostly him doing everything) in getting this wired up, my heated seats working and the cutout for the bass knob.

 

[BigAl205]

Also, I am a very neat worker TYVM

They didn’t call him Anal Boy in school for nothing

 

[Notloudenuf]

My gain issue was I had not set up the KeyLOC properly. Once I used the output gain pot on it the amp side was minimal effort to get to clean volume.
I have the TA and crossovers set but have not spent time on EQ.

Unrelated to the install but two things I've noticed is the audio quality of my Wireless CarPlay dongle (I'm using a Rexing) is noticeably worse than the wired version and there is also a delay in pushing the steering wheel control buttons and something happening. Its very convenient to not have to plug the phone in. I have chosen to do any tuning work with a USB stick and skip CarPlay/Spotify altogether. YMMV

 

[Euphonic]

My gain issue was I had not set up the KeyLOC properly. Once I used the output gain pot on it the amp side was minimal effort to get to clean volume.
I have the TA and crossovers set but have not spent time on EQ.

Unrelated to the install but two things I've noticed is the audio quality of my Wireless CarPlay dongle (I'm using a Rexing) is noticeably worse than the wired version and there is also a delay in pushing the steering wheel control buttons and something happening. Its very convenient to not have to plug the phone in. I have chosen to do any tuning work with a USB stick and skip CarPlay/Spotify altogether. YMMV

Now all you have to do is find a USB stick that has usable material on it....