Hillbilly SQ
BURNED OUT
Just saw this. Glad to see things are moving right along.
2019 Ram 1500 Laramie Black Edition
- Thread starter chithead
- Start date
cueball981
Noob
Thats where I mounted my fuse holder. Still need to fabricate the bracket. I'm doing mine out if 1/4 ABS.
Thanks for posting the pics!
Thanks for posting the pics!
cueball981
Noob
I also made a build thread of my 19. There's quite a few pics up if it'll help too.
Sorry but seeing those in the flesh reveals just how bad they are, see peter from ps sounds latest video on a pillars to see why... do t just take my word for itYeah they are definitely going to be something I consider from here on out.
Dampening and deadening is going to be fun. Haven't even put real power to them yet, and like you said... wholly moly. Buzzes and rattles everywhere.
Here are some more pics of those NVX baffles:
chithead
Well-known member
No need for the apology. You could very well have a good point with rear wave reflections and such. Lots of times with an extended or full range driver, you constantly see the suggestion for a chamfered edge on the inside of the baffle. Could be the same concept here. I need to go back into the doors for more dampening and deadening soon anyways, will take your recommendation to remove them and have another listen.
it may not be so bad if you effectively cut the bottom half off to make a shelter of sorts if it’s stiff enough to stay away from the basket by itself, I’ve made aluminium plates with lips on and riveted them to the skin behind the speaker to form an overhang of sorts, decouple it with some butyl as you rivet it on (it’s not decoupled truely, but it removes potential for rattles)
cueball981
Noob
Interesting enough, I wonder if the factory carrier plate causes any restrictions too. It is a narrow passage, at least 1.5" thick in some spots. And does angle inwards, just like those NVX baffles:
Chit,
I don't know about the AF 6x9s, but my JBL GTOs required removing the plastic wire holders that you show pictured. I also had to do some cutting so that the basket would fit. This is another reason why I'm making custom baffles; it will add some depth for the 6x9. It's a pretty tight fit with these doors!
Chris
cueball981
Noob
Unfortunately, the JBL's mounting holes didn't quite align, so was forced to tap a couple of new holes until I build the new baffles.
Hillbilly SQ
BURNED OUT
These doors aren't as hard to work with as the previous gen Ram. Most GOOD 6x9's won't even fit in the 4th gen because of that stupid window track support that can't be cut. I'd have the gs690's I used to own in my doors right now if they would have fit without serious modification.
cueball981
Noob
I agree, HB. These really are easy doors to pull apart and alter. My only beef is how terrible everything rattles. Going to take some serious time to deaden them properly.
Looks like this will be a sweet build. I'm shortly starting mine on a 1500 Ram 1500 Sport (Crew Cab).
Just trying to figure out a few last things before I start. On your build, have you figured out how to fit those Audio Frog subs? And are you running new speaker wire or using existing?
Just trying to figure out a few last things before I start. On your build, have you figured out how to fit those Audio Frog subs? And are you running new speaker wire or using existing?
cueball981
Noob
Any updates??
chithead
Well-known member
Not many, unfortunately. I've actually removed the GB25 mids and swapped them for the NVX XSPTW tweeters that were in the Challenger a few years ago. Learning how this truck reacts to reflections and such. So far, detail has increased tremendously at low volumes, but is unbearable at higher ones. Just like the Challenger was. So I'm thinking upfiring tweeters just don't work in these severely sloped windshield automobiles. Definitely need to have higher frequencies on axis, where having mids firing up from the dash seem to work quite well.
Only other things so far were having the windows tinted, cut the factory muffler out and replaced with a Blastin' Bob's single chamber muffler, and picked up something sexy to haul around
cueball981
Noob
For what it's worth, the 3.5" JBLs I'm using in the dash don't sound harsh at all at high volumes. Don't know what it is about these little guys, but they just do it and do it well in the dash locations. Obviously my time alignment will never be perfect since I can't bi-amp the mids and tweeters separately, but I'm pretty darn close to as good as I'm going to get them. I guarantee someone listening to them will never be able to tell I'm running coaxials. LOL!
I've been mulling it over whether to upgrade to a 3-way, but I'll be honest, it's a hard decision because I'm really happy with the results I'm getting from these discontinued, inexpensive (at the time I purchased them they were super cheap!) speakers.
Heck, I should send you a pair (I bought extras to have on-hand) so you can try them out!
I've been mulling it over whether to upgrade to a 3-way, but I'll be honest, it's a hard decision because I'm really happy with the results I'm getting from these discontinued, inexpensive (at the time I purchased them they were super cheap!) speakers.
Heck, I should send you a pair (I bought extras to have on-hand) so you can try them out!
chithead
Well-known member
I'll definitely consider that! Tried out some other various 2" and 3" fullranges I have on hand, and was quite surprised to find the midrange detail on the GB25 completely crushes any of the other full ranges in my collection, but of course upper end detail lacked on both. By swapping to the tweeters, get the upper end detail back, but end up with that harshness at high volumes mixed with what I consider lacking midrange. A coaxial with a laid back tweeter could very well be the perfect option, as you've discovered 
Keep eyeballing shallow subs again to try and squeeze behind the rear seat in the factory spot. The JL 13TW5 and Arc SW 12D4 are front runners so far, but that SB Acoustics SW26DBAC76-3-DV 10" on sale at Madisound could be an option as well. Finally learning, it's not about picking a sub and making it work, but selecting your spot and available volume, then pick the right sub.
Keep eyeballing shallow subs again to try and squeeze behind the rear seat in the factory spot. The JL 13TW5 and Arc SW 12D4 are front runners so far, but that SB Acoustics SW26DBAC76-3-DV 10" on sale at Madisound could be an option as well. Finally learning, it's not about picking a sub and making it work, but selecting your spot and available volume, then pick the right sub.
thomasluke
New member
I'll definitely consider that! Tried out some other various 2" and 3" fullranges I have on hand, and was quite surprised to find the midrange detail on the GB25 completely crushes any of the other full ranges in my collection, but of course upper end detail lacked on both. By swapping to the tweeters, get the upper end detail back, but end up with that harshness at high volumes mixed with what I consider lacking midrange. A coaxial with a laid back tweeter could very well be the perfect option, as you've discovered
Keep eyeballing shallow subs again to try and squeeze behind the rear seat in the factory spot. The JL 13TW5 and Arc SW 12D4 are front runners so far, but that SB Acoustics SW26DBAC76-3-DV 10" on sale at Madisound could be an option as well. Finally learning, it's not about picking a sub and making it work, but selecting your spot and available volume, then pick the right sub.
chitty chitty bang bang .....man. I just found your build. looking good. i just sold a 02 single cab ram. i believe i like the all metal doors better. the enclosed plastic is a bitch to to get right. the nvx door baffles are good at sealing the front of the speaker to the door card. im trying use some foam right and it needs to be more solid. like the silicone on the nvx. I think i may order some or try and find a silicone cutting board. anyway i did pillars mine. never tried firing into the window. my dash was cracked all to hell. so I didn't even attempt to look. just threw a dash mat on it and called it good.
chithead
Well-known member
Ahhhh, man - that body style was the first one I really fell in love with. "The Mayor of Truckville" - them were some snazzy rigs when they first come out. Took a while for the 2006 headlight change to grow on me. Really didn't like the 2009 body style until seeing the R/T. But then this new DT body in 2019, boom. Back in love again.
The NVX baffles are really nice. I still haven't gone into the doors to try listening without them. But they seal really well.
cueball981
Noob
I'll definitely consider that! Tried out some other various 2" and 3" fullranges I have on hand, and was quite surprised to find the midrange detail on the GB25 completely crushes any of the other full ranges in my collection, but of course upper end detail lacked on both. By swapping to the tweeters, get the upper end detail back, but end up with that harshness at high volumes mixed with what I consider lacking midrange. A coaxial with a laid back tweeter could very well be the perfect option, as you've discovered
Keep eyeballing shallow subs again to try and squeeze behind the rear seat in the factory spot. The JL 13TW5 and Arc SW 12D4 are front runners so far, but that SB Acoustics SW26DBAC76-3-DV 10" on sale at Madisound could be an option as well. Finally learning, it's not about picking a sub and making it work, but selecting your spot and available volume, then pick the right sub.
Let me know if you want me to send you a set to test. I have a few spares on-hand.
Chris