2015 Volvo V60 T6 R-Design

naiku

Noob
Sold my Audi A4 Avant last week, and while sad to see it go, it has gone to a great new home and it was time for something different, but the same, enter another white wagon, only this time in the shape of a 2015 Volvo V60 T6 R-Design. It's AWD with a 325HP turbocharged inline 6, only slightly heavier than my A4 was, it's a rocket, driving home from picking it up I had to constantly be careful of my speed as it was all too easy to be at 80+ Couple pictures of the car:
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I already debadged it, other visual changes are going to be tinted windows and lower it about half an inch or so. I don't want it as low as my A4 was, but want it lower than the stock height it currently sits at.
It came stock with the "Volvo High Performance" system, which is 3 way in the front doors, 2 in the rear and a center (I read somewhere that it is a 12 speaker set up, but I cannot figure out the 12th speaker as it has no factory sub). Eventually that will all be replaced with the below, and a Stereo Integrity SQL12 (not pictured):
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So today, I decided to remove the door card to take a look at what I will be starting with. The tweeter in the sail panel just pops off, but it looks like the tweeter is somewhat sealed into the housing. In the picture below you can see the cross hatch pattern where it looks like the 2 halves were melted together. Since I don't want to demolish this, looks like I need to order some new tweeter housings:
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The factory midrange is screwed to the doorcard on a little plastic mount, hopefully as long as there is enough depth (99% sure there is) then I can simply make my own mounting plate and install the 20MX in this location:
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The midbass is mounted to the door itself, but located directly beneath the mid. Looks like plenty of depth to mount the TM65's so no major concerns there:
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Here's where things get a little confusing, at least for me. So, the molex plug boot is in a sort of Z shape, getting 3 sets of wire through is going to be a massive headache. I had hoped to tap into the stock speaker wiring, I don't run huge amounts of power, so the stock wire should be fine for me and I will just splice my own wire into it inside the kick panel. But, at the moment I cannot figure out how it's wired (not yet pulled the molex plug, hoping I can get lucky). So, here is the wiring for the tweeter and mid:
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The wires are the exact same color, even the plugs are identical. Here's the wiring going to the midbass:
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4 wires, no clue why. I am going to try to find some wiring diagrams, hopefully that sheds some light on things and ideally I can use existing wire through the molex. I cannot stand trying to fish wires into the doors, so am hoping for some luck. Once I get that figured, I will deaden the outer skin as much as I can and then the inner skin (the drivers door rattles like crazy).
Last picture is a quick measurement with REW of the stock system, all the EQ is flat (has a 5 band in the head unit). In all honesty, it does not sound that bad other than the complete lack of anything below 35Hz.

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[SUB][SUP]
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Over the next couple weeks I am hoping to pick up power cable and deadener and then start getting things installed. Make sure to follow to see all my screw ups!!





 
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The mid is basically about an inch or two above where the midbass is located, see the white sticker above the midbass? It's about where the top of that stick is, maybe a little lower.
 
The mid is basically about an inch or two above where the midbass is located, see the white sticker above the midbass? It's about where the top of that stick is, maybe a little lower.
That’s a shame, rainbowing strikes even bmw with the mids at the top of the door :(
 
Hopefully it won't be too bad, previous car I had the mids located in the kicks and rainbowing was very minimal.
 
I messed with mids in a WRX one time, and with some aiming, the rainbow went away in there pretty quickly too. Had to tilt them more on axis because of being domes, but was a quick fix and sounded soooo good.
 
I messed with mids in a WRX one time, and with some aiming, the rainbow went away in there pretty quickly too. Had to tilt them more on axis because of being domes, but was a quick fix and sounded soooo good.

Good to know, there appears to be a decent bit of room behind the door card so hopefully I can aim them without too much difficulty.

Sweet new ride Ian! Looking forward to see/hear what you come up with :thumbup:

Thanks, ideally I can get everything done before Jason's NC meet in May. We'll see how things go though. Windows getting tinted Monday, then I may call into a local shop just to see how much they might charge to get the speaker wire into the doors.
 
Saw your post about wiring through the molex on the other forum. My recommendation, remove the doors and make your own secondary door boot for speaker wires if you dont want to re-use oem wiring. There is no shot you are getting 3 pairs of new speaker wire through that thing. trying to get one pair through may be an option and just tie into the other ones that are already ran.
 
Thanks, that's sort of what I am leaning towards doing. The OEM wiring is not going to work, only one set of wire goes through the boot then splits once it is inside the door for the 3-way in there. I called a shop locally who estimate $70 - $100 per side to run the wire, but the more I look at the boot / plug etc. I don't see how that will be possible.

Looks like I just need to gather some supplies to make my own boot. Any recommendations on materials to use to make sure it is weather resistant? Figure techflex on the wires themselves, then an outer rubber boot, grommet on the door side and silicon to seal it up?
 
Thanks, that's sort of what I am leaning towards doing. The OEM wiring is not going to work, only one set of wire goes through the boot then splits once it is inside the door for the 3-way in there. I called a shop locally who estimate $70 - $100 per side to run the wire, but the more I look at the boot / plug etc. I don't see how that will be possible.

Looks like I just need to gather some supplies to make my own boot. Any recommendations on materials to use to make sure it is weather resistant? Figure techflex on the wires themselves, then an outer rubber boot, grommet on the door side and silicon to seal it up?

I saw these quite a while back on another build log somewhere and bookmarked them just in case. Hope they help you out!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eli-4301-70-011
 
Just a thought on a way that only requires the existing single pair of wires through the door boot... Get a nice quality 3-way set with passive xover - Install the passive xover in the door - Let Dirac Live do it's thing :eyebrows:
 
I saw these quite a while back on another build log somewhere and bookmarked them just in case. Hope they help you out!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eli-4301-70-011

Excellent, thanks for that link.

Just a thought on a way that only requires the existing single pair of wires through the door boot... Get a nice quality 3-way set with passive xover - Install the passive xover in the door - Let Dirac Live do it's thing :eyebrows:

That's actually not a bad idea, I'd like to use the equipment I have, but could sell it to offset some of the cost of the new set. I can bridge amp channels that way for more power if desired and possibly just run a single amp.

Certainly worth looking into at least, thanks.
 
My dad always had Volvo 544's and 122's growing up and of course my first car was a 68 122's 2 door. He always dreamt of getting a P1800.

Always had a soft spot for Volvos and wagons to boot (owned two wagons and if it wasn't for this minivan/SUV craze may have owned more).

Good luck with your build, your new ride looks sweet and already sounds fun to drive even before you finish the audio upgrade, so you have great starting point...
 
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