2014 F150 Limited Build

Got the new abs amp rack bottom bent to go over seat bolts.

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My manager was keeping a close eye on the progress...

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Got some of my new amp rack done the past couple of days. Ran out of black/red tech flex today so had to order more. Waiting on that tomorrow to finish her all up, set gains, and then retune.



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I was texting Justin Zazzi and first just had the mini fridge in the background that my wife just purchased for her work...he said I should use a banana for scale...just so happened we had one so I did ;)
 
Got the rack all tidied up tonight and installed. Didn't get pictures installed but will tomorrow. It went in better than I expected!



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I was texting Justin Zazzi and first just had the mini fridge in the background that my wife just purchased for her work...he said I should use a banana for scale...just so happened we had one so I did ;)

Came here for the pictures.
Not disappointed LOL!
 
Got the gains set today and a very basic tune via the Helix built in RTA. It actually does a pretty decent job and pretty quick.

Also, here are the pictures of the amp rack.

Cut the back carpet as close as I could:`


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Around the rear window motor

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You can see in this picture that I notched the ABS to into the back seat bracket to use that bolt.

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Used the factory seat bolts and the carpet remained under the bottom of the rack. It was a tight fit but that is a good thing.

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I didn't quite have enough for this last one...But the washer gripped it a little bit.

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Got my new (used) stereo integrity bm mkv's today and got them installed in the mti box.

The mti box is beautiful. They matched my graphite trim on my 14 limited unique interior perfectly (I did have to do some legwork on that). It fits nearly perfect (I am guessing it would be if there wasn't so much sound deadening in my truck), and did I mention it is BEAUTIFUL! MTI's customer service was also top notch with Jim Skaggs texting me updates and pictures along the way. I didn't expect that. The packaging was also very good for shipping. I hate packing peanuts, but man that box was not going to be damaged in shipping.

Some very minor things that bother my ocd and I think would take this box from a 9/10 to a 10/10. I wish they would have carpeted the bottom instead of what appears to be spray paint. The carpet ends right on the bottom and would be only a couple dollars to finish it. The terminals were slightly crooked, I didn't fix this as I didn't want to make additional holes. I was also a little surprised they didn't pre-run some wire to each spot for the subs from the terminal, it only took me like 5 minutes but I did have to remove the terminal to do this. Again, non of this is a deal breaker by any means. But I do think those small touches would make this a 10/10 instead of a 9/10.


Here are some pictures.


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I continue to be impressed by everyone's builds. Yours looks great.

I was planning a stealth install, but I may have to revisit my tweeter install for two reasons, your pods look awesome and I love the look of the Morel MT350 Lotus grill over the factory Mustang A-pillar grill.

Even your mid bass is giving me something to consider. Even though I have a spot I can add a midbass in the door (once I get recylced door panels that is), the dash would make wiring easier and elimate the need for the recycled door panels, air bags notwithstanding...
 
Sent my amps off to Audio Science Review to be measured so that meant I needed to retune the truck this past weekend! I also changed where the tweeters were mounted, after offroading and road use the original mounting locations epoxy broke loose and was rattling. So now put factory tweeter grills back and mounted the tweeters through the top of the factory tweeter mount.

Here are the amp Reviews

Alpine PDX-v9:https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/alpine-pdx-v9-review-car-amplifier.28893/
Alpine PDX-F6: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...-pdx-f6-review-4-channel-car-amplifier.28870/

My Retune Session Results:

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Ok Question for some of you that may know ( @dumdum or @Justin Zazzi)

This was my tweeter phase response after getting it the best I knew how.

Purple is my left tweeer and dark green is my right tweeter.
I circled in green where my questions stems from.

Here are my questions:

1) Should I even worry about this area since my crossover for tweeters is at 3500hz acoustically and it gets the weird wrapping phase at about 3000hz and that is -12db down?

2) If I were to worry about this, how would I fix it? As in, if this was somewhere at like 8000hz in the middle of the response. I tried some all pass filters on this and nothing would fix it. They would shift the weird wrap either higher or lower, but nothing would get rid of it.
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Here are my mids, anything you see I should fix here? This one has a break in the phase at about 1290hz in the left mid (green). The right mid is the dark red. I tried an all pass filter but it didn't really fix it. I tired 2nd order and different q's for it. Do you worry about those?

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Here are mids to tweeters: Left mid is green, left tweeter is orange, right mid is pink, right tweeter is blue.

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Here are mids to woofers: Left mid green, left woofer bright green, right mid ink, right woofer brown

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Here are my woofers and subwoofers, I don't see much to fix here. Subwoofer dark green, right woofer red, left woofer blue:

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Final question about all of the above:


Once I was done doing that work, I got into the truck and was listening. My sound stage seemed to be shifted a few inches to the left of center. I tried changing left side overall levels by lowering them but the stage didn't shift at all. Should I mess with the timing? That seems like it would then mess up the phase responses. I tried that and it did shift the stage if I increased the delay on the right side as a whole by a couple clicks, but I know this definitely impacts the phase response.
 
I would not worry about phase alignment above 1kHz 'ish. If your tweeters are Goofy at 8khz, I wouldn't bother.

If you wanted to though, I think all pass filters are a good start. They can only bend the phase trace one direction so if you're not getting what you want, try all pass filter on the other channel instead.

It is curious to see the knee in phase response though. Usually I see a sharp transition like that when I'm measuring a 2 way or a coaxial set because the acoustic center of the midrange and tweeter are different distances from the mic. So in that case the phase plot would be two straight lines that intersect somewhere, and you get a shape that looks much like your tweeter phase does.

I would double check that the frequency response is what you think it is. Frequency and phase response are linked so adjusting one can help the other match.

Oh, also reflections.
 
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