2014 F150 Limited Build

I figured I might as well post this here. It is over on the f150 forums, but you all might appreciate it more. (If you want to look at every iteration go here https://www.f150forum.com/f30/jdunk54nls-build-446724/)

Equipment to date:

Factory HU programmed via Forscan for 4v variable output
Knu Koncept Krystal RCA cables
Knu Koncept 1/0 gauge power and ground
Helix DSP.2
Alpine PDX-V9 (sub(s), tweeters, and rear fill)
Alpine PDX- F6 (Midbass and midrange)
Stereo Integrity 3 way front (TM65 Mkiii, M3, M25)
Valicar Stuttgart pods for M3's and M25's
2x Stereo Integrity BM MKV's (on their way soon, current sub is a 10" JL TW3)
SB Acoustic SB17's for rear fill
A bunch of Resonix CLD (look at his website for the 2014 F150 log for details on the sound deadening)
100% Resonix CCF and MLV


I used the for-11ck harness to connect to the ACM and run wire back to my DSP. I choose to do low level RCA runs.

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I then had the Sony system and didn't have the correct connector for it so I decided to cut and solder the wires together. It was Saturday and I needed the truck on Sunday. FYI this fully deleted the Sony system. My sony amp, speakers, and sub sit in my garage now.

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This is just a final wrap of electrical tape to over-protect the wires.

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The stereo integrity m25's will be at a lot nicer angle with the pods. I purchased the optional swivel mounts to really get the best angle possible.


First I removed the factory grill

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Then I found washers that were quite nearly the perfect size. One on the outside

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One on the inside. These will be sandwiched together to hold the pods in place. I tested this and it seems PLENTY sturdy enough. I guess time will tell though.

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I didn't want to leave the washers silver so I found the closest matching paint to the a-pillars.

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Turned out better than expected!

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It is a little bit off, but the pod will cover up most of that anyway.

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Here are the pods with the m25's in them already.

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This is what it will look like once it is mounted in the truck.

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I used some clear jb weld on some plumbers strap and epoxied it to the washer. The strap was then attached to the original mounting points for some added support. Figured it can't hurt. I also put a washer on top of that to help hold it in place. The holes on the strap were not quite big enough to fit the threaded rod through. I tried enlarging the holes but plumbers strap is not fun to try and drill through so I gave up and went the jb weld route.

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This was the swivel mount without pod attached.

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Got the tweeters installed today. Based on many readings/recommendations over at diyma and talking with Justin, for both best response and best aesthetics I aimed the tweeters basically at the rear dome light. I used Justin’s (in his build log over there) formula to get the distance which was again basically the dome light.

If if I don’t like this after I tune it, I’ll drill a hole somewhere.


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Some more work done today. Got at least 25% coverage of CLD on roof, back wall, and floor (the floor was nearly 70% covered with factory stuff). Put thinsualte material on the roof to keep the phoenix heat out. Put CCF and MLV on the back wall and floor to really quiet things down. Now it is time to put the interior back in but after doing this in 105 degrees all day I am tired.


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Got the front interior put all back in...had to do it twice because I forgot how something went under the center console and had it wrong ��.

Also got the amp rack all ready to be installed. Used black auto carpet to cover it. Used tnuts (wood glued in there) to make everything easy to remove.

My knu 1/2m rca's were about 3" too short so I had to go back to my streetwise zn5's. Awe well, I'll use the Krystal kables's on the wife's car.

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I did have to modify the door a little bit around the speaker area. The Stereo Integrity 6.5" speakers have a big basket on them so I had to trim the opening on the top and bottom to get them to fit. Dremel made quick work of that.


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The rear door was similar except no modification needed with the sb17's. They just fit right in there.


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__________________
 
Got a dash camera installed today. The Rexing V1P Pro Gen 3 Dual camera

and.....

My Stereo Integrity M3 speakers in their pods. I don't have power to them yet, but I at least have them mounted and aimed to the same spot. Christmas time will be when I get the pdx-f6 and new amp rack installed and running.
I also need to either re-pin the molex to the speaker in the door and replace that wiring, or run new wiring. I am having issues with both sides cutting out and when I looked at the wires, they seem to be getting pinched on both sides and looks like they need replacing. I had this issue before any speaker replacement too, where a speaker would cut out or get quieter for a few seconds and then come back. I am leaning towards just new wiring from amp to speakers and bought enough to do that.



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Drilled a hole through the a-pillar to run the wire through. This will have the pod going through there and then a small piece of foam on the pod where it contacts the dash for no rattles.

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My favorite quick disconnect XT-60's.

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I wasn't happy with my sub output. I had it originally in the middle seat area up firing.

I was trying various locations to see if they made a difference. By Ear, passenger side was the best and down firing seemed better but I wasn't 100% sure. So, I decided to take some measurements and find out.

Here are those measurements. If you have a single sub, definitely place it on the passenger side and down firing if you can! DO NOT PLACE IT ON THE DRIVERS SIDE!!!!!

This is all 6 different possibilities:



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This is my before (center up firing) to my now (passenger side down firing). Gained 3db which is equivalent to doubling the power or adding a second speaker (not both)



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This is passenger side up vs. down


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Whats pods are those for the tweets and stuff? Did the speakers come with those? I like that little swivel setup.
 
Looks great and innovative idea on mounting those pods. I have the exact same interior in my Ford only in XL trim regular cab. Can you post some pictures and details for the subwoofer?
 
I was trying various locations to see if they made a difference. By Ear, passenger side was the best and down firing seemed better but I wasn't 100% sure.

Here are those measurements. If you have a single sub, definitely place it on the passenger side and down firing if you can!

DO NOT PLACE IT ON THE DRIVERS SIDE!!!!!


Excellently said ! "There it is" :woohoo:

The reason to downfire or front load a sub is "control" , you are using a limiting factor on movement [ think resistance ].
 
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