2011 Cadillac CTS-V Coupe build

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demann

Noob
Hello all. New to this forum, heard about it on DIYMA.

I’m just getting started on upgrading the audio system in my 2011 CTS-V.

I have recently installed the Metra dash kit and a Kenwood Excelon DMX906S. It seems like a really nice HU so far. The Metra kit has a GM CANBUS interface that allows the HU to integrate with the rest of the system.

I’m still running through the Bose amp for now. If I gut the Bose amp, I lose chimes, backup warning beeps, OnStar, turn signal clicks, etc, which I don’t want to do.

I have run an RCA cable from the Kenwood’s sub-outs to the trunk, and I have a JL Audio ACP112LG-TW1 MicroSub+ 12" powered subwoofer waiting to be installed in the spare tire well. By running the sub off of the Kenwood’s sub outputs, I can avoid the Bose amps annoying EQ programming of reducing the bass output as the volume is turned up.

I know I have a ton of sound deadening to do, especially trunk and doors.

I have a set of Dynaudio MW182’s on order (thanks SkizeR!) as a near drop in replacement for the Bose mid bass drivers in my front doors. I’m seriously doubting that the Bose amp is going to have enough power to drive them anywhere near what they’ll need.

I’m wondering about using a Rockford Fosgate compact 200 watts x 2 channel amp, driven by the Bose amp’s front door speaker outputs, to up the power to where it needs to be for the Dyns. I’m thinking I can keep things balanced by adjusting the gain setting appropriately on the Rockford Fosgate amp, on the JL sub, and with the Kenwood’s output tuning and EQ.

I know this is nowhere near a full on DSP processor based SQ system, but it would retain the stock amp’s features that I don’t want to lose, and hopefully sound way better than the fully stock Bose amps and speakers.

One other thing to note, is that even though I’m only 56, I do already have hearing aids to help with some “high frequency roll-off” that my ears seem to have developed lately. 😁 Maybe I listened to too much loud music back in my youth (dual 10” Bazookas blaring away back in the 80’s and 90’s). So I question whether I would even be able to appreciate a well tuned, time aligned, accurately staged system anymore.

I’m open to opinions and suggestions, especially if there’s anyone hear that’s worked around a GM Bose amp before, has done an install in a CTS before, or who has hearing aids but still enjoys SQ car audio systems.
 
demann said:
So I question whether I would even be able to appreciate a well tuned, time aligned, accurately staged system anymore.
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You need to demo in a good car before making this decision. I'm 57 and started with 8-tracks and power boosters. Thought I knew something about stereos. I was wrong. Heard my first good system in 2008, it was an AHA moment. But be warned, you won't be satisfied with what 99% of people think is great.

Your CTS-V can be very good, Gabe's was in some iterations.
 
papacueball said:
iDatalink or Pac audio may have what you need to get rid of the bose amp and retain those features.
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I wish! I investigated, and unfortunately iDatalink does not support the generation of Cadillac CTS digital Bose amp systems that are in my car (08 - 14 CTS).




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In most cases you can leave the OEM amp in place, but that doesn't mean you have to run your audio through it. For example I left my oem amp in place in my 2012 charger because something required it being there, but not a single audio signal went through it. I merely disconnected the speaker outputs on it and left it in place. In my situation I retained the OEM HU as it had a lot of integrated features so I couldn't replace it, but in your case since you already have an aftermarket HU (and a good one), you should be good to got

I would caution spending a lot of money on sound dampening material initially. Find out if you actually need it. Most don't do this and spend a lot of money for almost no sonic gain. Now, if you are looking to deaden road noise as you are driving, that can be a different story, but still I'd see what you actually need as opposed to just throwing everything in the catalog at the car "just because".

Your statement about not having enough power is misplaced, and a common misconception. Look at it this way, those speakers are probably in the 85-88db efficient range, as are most drivers that are used in car audio. That means a single watt of power will produce a peak output of that 85-88db per speaker. With two speakers that means 3 more db, so 88-91db for that same single watt. When it comes to sub frequencies that isn't much to write home about, but for everything else, it is fairly loud. Every doubling of power gets you another 3db. This means that pretty much everyone that isn't trying to pound the ground drives around listening to their system at 1-2 watts of power, with an occasional peak of maybe 4 watts. Perhaps higher if they truly are listening to some really dynamic recordings that have high dynamic range in them, they'll exceed that for very brief moments, like milliseconds.

High power amps have their place and their purpose and people use them for different reasons. Lower gains for lower noise floor, having that dynamic range capability, etc. Just don't get caught up in thinking you HAVE to have a lot of power to make something sound good, or worse to think that a speaker "wants it".

Just some food for thought...
 
Hey pocket5s, thanks for all the great feedback.

My main focus on sound deadening is to dynamat the front doors and trunk area, to reduce any resonance from the much higher levels of bass they are about to be subject to. And like you said, if I do more than that, it will be to reduce the road noise. It does seem like I’m getting more road noise coming through now than when my car was new.

As far as more power goes, I agree with you. But something is distorting/clipping as I turn the volume up. It’s at the point where it’s starting to get loud, but it’s not super loud yet. It could be the stock Bose sub, or the current stock door speakers. I need to take the time and isolate it. I’m replacing the sub, so if it’s that I’m all good. But if it’s the stock door speakers, I’ll need to check again once I upgrade to the Dynaudio MW182s, and see if it’s still there.

If so, that’s when more power may be needed for them. I have no idea what sort of quality or power the Bose amp has for those speakers. I also don’t know what the stock front door mid bass speaker’s impedance is, or how different they are from the MW182’s.

I’ll just work through everything one step at a time.
 
Notloudenuf said:
I hope you'll post some pictures of the car for me to drool over.
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Absolutely! But right now it’s at a speed shop getting all kinds of engine upgrades. Once I get it back and can switch back over to audio upgrades, I will


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demann said:
I wish! I investigated, and unfortunately iDatalink does not support the generation of Cadillac CTS digital Bose amp systems that are in my car (08 - 14 CTS).
Click to expand...

That's disappointing, my wife has a 2012 CTS Wagon, every time I drive it I look at the doors and think how cool it would be to drop 10" midbass in there, some mids up in the factory locations on the dash and then fabricate some tweeters into the A-pillars. The factory head unit is terrible, can you post a picture of how the kit / Kenwood look in the dash? Does it bother you that there are now a bunch of useless buttons?

Notloudenuf said:
I really want one of these cars. I’m excited to see what you come up with.
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I'd love a CTS-V wagon, but prices on them are not coming down and in fact creeping up. Seen a couple sell on BaT for near enough what they sold for new.
 
naiku said:
... The factory head unit is terrible, can you post a picture of how the kit / Kenwood look in the dash? Does it bother you that there are now a bunch of useless buttons? ...
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Yes, I will once I get my car back from the speed shop in a couple weeks. They are doing all the engine upgrades I've been wanting to do all these years, but I have been waiting for the extended warranty to expire, which it did last May. Same reason I am just now starting to upgrade the audio system.

I think it looks pretty good, all things considered. The only thing I miss is having a rotary volume knob, I used that a lot with the stock head unit. Now I only have the steering wheel volume +/- buttons, and the +/- volume buttons on the bottom edge of the Kenwood.

As for the row of useless buttons, I plan to mount an iPad mini there, connected to a WiFi OBDII dongle, to display several key engine parameters using the DashCommand app. It will be right below the Kenwood double DIN radio, and just above the row of buttons for the HVAC controls. I'll also be able to use it for normal iPad stuff, like watching videos and movies (when not driving of course).

I actually went to a junk yard and bought that whole centerstack module just so I could take it apart to figure out the best way to mount the iPad mini there. Basically the Menu/Select knobs pop out, then I am going to fab up a small plate on a dowel or pipe of some sort, and epoxy that pipe and plate into the opening of where the knobs were. I'll then attach the 10 magnet Wizgear tablet mount to actually hold the iPad to the plate. That way I can just grab the iPad off of the magnet mount and hide it or take it with me.

I'll post pictures of all this once I get the car back and a chance to do this.
 
demann said:
Yes, I will once I get my car back from the speed shop in a couple weeks. They are doing all the engine upgrades I've been wanting to do all these years, but I have been waiting for the extended warranty to expire, which it did last May. Same reason I am just now starting to upgrade the audio system.

I think it looks pretty good, all things considered. The only thing I miss is having a rotary volume knob, I used that a lot with the stock head unit. Now I only have the steering wheel volume +/- buttons, and the +/- volume buttons on the bottom edge of the Kenwood.

As for the row of useless buttons, I plan to mount an iPad mini there, connected to a WiFi OBDII dongle, to display several key engine parameters using the DashCommand app. It will be right below the Kenwood double DIN radio, and just above the row of buttons for the HVAC controls. I'll also be able to use it for normal iPad stuff, like watching videos and movies (when not driving of course).

I actually went to a junk yard and bought that whole centerstack module just so I could take it apart to figure out the best way to mount the iPad mini there. Basically the Menu/Select knobs pop out, then I am going to fab up a small plate on a dowel or pipe of some sort, and epoxy that pipe and plate into the opening of where the knobs were. I'll then attach the 10 magnet Wizgear tablet mount to actually hold the iPad to the plate. That way I can just grab the iPad off of the magnet mount and hide it or take it with me.

I'll post pictures of all this once I get the car back and a chance to do this.
Click to expand...


A friend of mine had a same-generation (I think it was a '13) CTS (non-V) and before the kit came out, he modded the dash, relocated the factory HU buttons down behind the shifter, put a double din radio in it, and then put an iPad mini in place of the motorized screen. It was a very involved job, but turned out sweet. Nobody ever wanted to pay what it would cost to do it again, and then the kits came out.

I wish I had pics of that one.

Jay
 
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