Kenwood KAC 7204 AMP

[Queef]

Ibanender aka Sean , has been around the block a few times ?

[Smitty]

Are you asking or telling?

[Packers27]

It matters but sealed enclosures are more forgiving, especially if it's a tad larger. When they get too small, you begin to lose low end and efficiency. Larger means more bottom end to a point. When it gets way too big you begin to approach infinite baffle performance. Thats not necessarily a bad thing but there is no danger of that happening in your box.
Throw your subs in and enjoy the tunes. If you're concerned, measure the inside and calculate how much space you really have. Filling space is easy but I don't think it's going to be necessary.
If you'll give me a cab measurement, I can roughly model the in cab response. This will show what a good range of air space for your subs would be. I need to know the longest dimension of your cab. Measure from the driver's footwell to the roof in the upper rear passenger side corner. This helps to roughly approximate cabin gain by indicating which frequency cabin gain should begin to kick in. In my 4Runner its roughly 50 Hz, yours should be a higher frequency which also means more gain. It not exact since you rarely gain the full 12 db per octave but gives an idea.

Smitty, from outer corner of footwall to rear passenger is 8'-7" or 103 in.

[Packers27]

This may sound strange to some but its VERY important to me to purchase some grills for my subs. Since the box is forward fire and I have a youngen that sits back there every now and then, I dont want him to kick out my sub with the heel of his foot. Are grills/guards universal? Is there a site where I can shop for them?

[Queef]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atrend-10GB...rd!45701!US!-1

Grill bar type ?

[Packers27]

Yes sir

[Queef]

Sweet !

[Packers27]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atrend-10GB...rd!45701!US!-1

Grill bar type ?

Surely no worries of excursion banging the grills?

[Smitty]

For any new guy reading this... do NOT believe that a simple measurement will magically allow you to model cabin gain in WinISD. The only way I know how to truly determine cabin gain is to take a subwoofer and measure its anechoic response. Then place it in the vehicle and measure the in-car response. What I did was simply apply a 12db per octave filter beginning at the frequency the measurement suggested. In this example it is 65.82 Hz. It does not take into account what amount of CLD you have, thinner sheet metal on newer vehicles with the same dimensions, altitude, humidity, etc... This only gives a theoretical idea of where you may be. The few times I've measured actual cabin gain, it did not look like the model. It may roughly resemble the higher end but it usually peaks and has more of a shelf response after the peak and some things that need to be eq'd out. Keep in mind the tuning changes when you open a window. Technically, driving from the beach to the mountains changes the subs response. I personally do not get wrapped up in the numbers, especially predicted db. I just look at the shape of the curves and look for nasty surprises. Over the years I have learned which curves/response profiles I prefer.

Regarding the case at hand, I modeled the ID sub and found their recommendations to be well done. Go figure, right? I personally would prefer the 0.8 ft3, maybe slightly larger. The power handling will begin to drop in the low frequencies as you go larger than 1.3 ft3. At 1.5 ft3 the power handling is predicted to be around 225 watts at 20 Hz. Do not stress about this as you will not be in this range. I say grab the subs, throw them in the box and jam out. I think you'll like the sound. If you want to tweak it some, that is easy. Just give us your feedback and we'll help you out. Making the box smaller is simply just cutting a block the size of the volume you want to decrease and screw it somewhere inside the box. I think the grills queef suggested should work fine.

[Packers27]

For any new guy reading this... do NOT believe that a simple measurement will magically allow you to model cabin gain in WinISD. The only way I know how to truly determine cabin gain is to take a subwoofer and measure its anechoic response. Then place it in the vehicle and measure the in-car response. What I did was simply apply a 12db per octave filter beginning at the frequency the measurement suggested. In this example it is 65.82 Hz. It does not take into account what amount of CLD you have, thinner sheet metal on newer vehicles with the same dimensions, altitude, humidity, etc... This only gives a theoretical idea of where you may be. The few times I've measured actual cabin gain, it did not look like the model. It may roughly resemble the higher end but it usually peaks and has more of a shelf response after the peak and some things that need to be eq'd out. Keep in mind the tuning changes when you open a window. Technically, driving from the beach to the mountains changes the subs response. I personally do not get wrapped up in the numbers, especially predicted db. I just look at the shape of the curves and look for nasty surprises. Over the years I have learned which curves/response profiles I prefer.

Regarding the case at hand, I modeled the ID sub and found their recommendations to be well done. Go figure, right? I personally would prefer the 0.8 ft3, maybe slightly larger. The power handling will begin to drop in the low frequencies as you go larger than 1.3 ft3. At 1.5 ft3 the power handling is predicted to be around 225 watts at 20 Hz. Do not stress about this as you will not be in this range. I say grab the subs, throw them in the box and jam out. I think you'll like the sound. If you want to tweak it some, that is easy. Just give us your feedback and we'll help you out. Making the box smaller is simply just cutting a block the size of the volume you want to decrease and screw it somewhere inside the box. I think the grills queef suggested should work fine.

Hey Smitty, thanks for the input. I really appreciate you being patient with me. That goes for everyone. Queer, Grinder etc.

When you say "The power handling will drop in the low frequencies as I go larger than 1.3 cuft", do you mean low frequencies as in deeper bass ? The HZ is also confusing. What does that pertain to?

Oh, btw, I seen that Sonic Electronics was having an extended cyber monday sale. They have the IDs on their website but when I messaged them through their Facebook ad, they told me that the subs are discontinued and they dont carry them. However, Walmart online does have them. Of course they are partnered with companies that deal subs I'm sure