You only need the one wire going into the chamber as shown in the photo. You only to join the drivers when wiring in series. In this case, only the voice coils are in series which only needs a small piece of wire. When I can back to my PC, I'll make you some diagrams for the wiring.
BTW, when the wire is laying on the bottom of the box, it's good to place foam tape around the wire or place some on the box wall. You don't want it to rattle.
Meh, it'll play.
Just to make sure you’re using the right numbers, the sub displaces .05 cubic ft NOT .5. So if you’re enclosure is 1.2 cubit ft the sub will “see” 1.15 NOT .7. It’s not necessarily a bad thing to have it in a larger than recommended box but several things will be affected. The air in a sealed box acts as a spring on the cone “controlling” the cone movement. The smaller the box, the more pressure on the back of the cone limiting its movement. Larger box... less limiting of cone movement. So in a larger box (since the cone will move easier) the sub will be more efficient and play lower... with one caveat... the power handling also reduces. I hope I didn’t confuse you more, but also remember you won’t be using all 250w ALL the time unless you’re playing pure sine waves constantly.
As you can also see in the ID pic you posted as the box gets bigger the -3dB number goes down. This number the the point where you’re frequency plays 3dB less. So you’re 1.2 sealed box will play lower than a smaller box.
As an example... about 20 yrs (or so) ago I used to run a JL 12w4 in a 2.5cf sealed box (it was recommended for 1.5 & 300w), powered with a 500w Soundstream Reference amp and I had absolutely no issues and lasted for years.
If you’re super concerned about the airspace you can always get a few blocks of wood and place them inside to bring you’re enclosure volume down (secured of course). Or you could always look for a different set of subs.
The best way to accomplish what you’re asking is this: series each sub and connect to the terminal (assuming there’s terminals installed in the box). Then run your 2 pairs of speaker wires to the amp. Connect the 2 positives to the positive terminal on the amp and then likewise for the negative.
A squirt of silicone (like in amplifiers) keeps things in place. I have two connectors (4 total posts on my W.O.32 ). The two dvc 4 ohm IDMAX 10's are connected with voice coils wired in series, outside I wire the connectors to amplifier in parallel. Thus presenting a 4 ohm final impedance to amp.
Like TheTodd is saying above.