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Thread: Port bracing question

  1. Back To Top    #61

    Re: Port bracing question

    Quote Originally Posted by Surfer J View Post
    Will pvc elbows from say Home Depot match up with the Precision Port kits?
    Not likely ...but even if they did, they are of entirely different material thickness (i.e. not at all conducive to smooth airflow).

  2. Back To Top    #62
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    Re: Port bracing question

    You can buy a "street ell" ( one male and one female end )to go inside a regular 90 with two female ends. 90+90=180

    The 6" pvc will cost substantially less at Home Depot , than a PR .
    Using flares from PE with pvc , do it , you can get it to work !
    Glue & Primer work best with pvc and DWV or drain/waste/vent pipe is thick/heavy pipe.
    Last edited by Queef; 11-28-2019 at 06:23 AM. Reason: PVC and flare-kit

  3. Back To Top    #63

    Re: Port bracing question

    How do passive radiators work? How do I go about installing and tuning one? What size do I need for my HST-15? Also where can I get one? Again thank you all for the help.

  4. Back To Top    #64
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    Re: Port bracing question

    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...IaAhoZEALw_wcB

    It needs to be bigger than sub and may drop a half-octave. Tune to 30 hZ , 7 hZ lower to 23 hZ

  5. Back To Top    #65

    Re: Port bracing question

    Here's a good place to start: https://earthquakesound.com/index.ph...s/car-passives

    PRs mount pretty much like any other driver (though only vertical is recommended, due to weighted cone). Tuning is done by simply adding/removing weight from the passive cone.

  6. Back To Top    #66
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    Re: Port bracing question

    Surfer J ,
    I'd build a "slot-port" , because . . .
    https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/cont...closure-design

    A sealed box is 'very forgiving of errors' , not so for a ported-box ("exact is all You want").
    Passive radiators - expensive , and size .
    Last edited by Queef; 11-28-2019 at 10:06 AM. Reason: Box example

  7. Back To Top    #67

    Re: Port bracing question

    Quote Originally Posted by Grinder View Post
    Here's a good place to start: https://earthquakesound.com/index.ph...s/car-passives

    PRs mount pretty much like any other driver (though only vertical is recommended, due to weighted cone). Tuning is done by simply adding/removing weight from the passive cone.
    And then it is like changing ports until one gets it "just right".
    With a slot or a tube, it is a bit harder to "unglue" a box, than to change a weight.

    And some 'stupid low' tuning is a lot easier.

  8. Back To Top    #68

    Re: Port bracing question

    What is the minimum distance I need to have between the port opening and the rear wall of my truck for a 6” port?

  9. Back To Top    #69
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    Re: Port bracing question

    Move it forward/backward and listen , otherwise , do like everyone else . . . Build it and put it where it fits ! Compromise .
    Six inches is minimum.
    Could port be located on (top/same side as sub/any side not facing a surface - wall, floor)

  10. Back To Top    #70

    Re: Port bracing question

    Quote Originally Posted by Surfer J View Post
    What is the minimum distance I need to have between the port opening and the rear wall of my truck for a 6” port?
    I'd say at least 6" to avoid turbulence/noise - and perhaps even farther, to avoid inadvertently lowering tuning (i.e. effectively lengthening port, due to its proximity to the rear wall of your truck).

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