I would add the bracing to help with flow ! Might effect frequency in hZ ( possibly higher frequency ), the "Hit" may be a lil more, if "chuffing" is not a concern , go for it.
Making the air passage smoother is usually a good thing. Just be careful about making the corner wedges too large because then you'll be adding a narrow restriction to the air passage in that spot. The impact on tuning might result in the port behaving as if it were slightly shorter due to the reduced air resistance, but I'm not sure if it would be very noticeable. The 90-degree turn of the port on the inside of the box (top-most red triangle brace) would make the port behave as if it were slightly longer and the effect can be estimated with something called an "end correction" factor.
Measure with mics, mark with chalk, cut with torch, grind to fit, sand to finish, paint to match.
Updated Justin tuning sheet (Justin and Erica tuning companion for SMAART and REW)
Do it for them.
^That^ and maybe round nose (Bull nose) over the male section with a router bit?
Measure with mics, mark with chalk, cut with torch, grind to fit, sand to finish, paint to match.
Updated Justin tuning sheet (Justin and Erica tuning companion for SMAART and REW)
Do it for them.
Look into round flared ports too. If you can fit them they offer higher efficiency over slot ports because they have the smoothest air flow. These are what I use most of the time. https://www.parts-express.com/precis...e-kit--268-352
Mazda CX5 AF GB10, AF GB25, AF GB60, JL VX800/8i, AF GB12 sealed, Mmats M1400.1
Ford F150 AF GB10, AF GB25, JLC5, JL twk88/Pioneer D8604, Mosconi Pico, JBL Club 5501, Sundown SD3-10 ported @ 30 Hz
Sienna AF GB15, Audiofrog GS690, JL twk88/Pioneer D9500F, JBL GTX500, Alpine SWS10 ported @ 31 Hz
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5608901
I second this recommendation. Smoother airflow = reduced vent noise per vent area compared to ordinary slot ports. There are additional sizes and accessories: https://www.parts-express.com/brand/precision-sound/285
I believe that you'll need to slot to vent outside the box...
IMO...
At least round over the "A dimension" across from the red bits... that may be more critical than the deep corners where the wind never really is able to get to. The wind should be very stressed there at the male side, and likely to shear away from the sharp corner cause some noise.
If we take the flared round vent as being superior to slot in terms of smoothness of flow...
Then in the limit... one gets to a Passive Radiator having the least amount of chuffing, tumble and swirl.