Jay's 2015 Mazda 6i Touring build thread

[JayinMI]

Also, something I noticed. The XScorpion wiring harness doesn't have illumination or dimmer wires in it. The 4100NEX screen is quite bright at night.
I looked at the Metra equivalent (70-7903) and it appears to have said wires. So, even tho it was a good price on the package, I probably wouldn't do it again. It would cost a little more to buy the separate pieces, but I think it would be worth it.

Jay

[JayinMI]

So, I've been trying to decide on equipment for the new install...

I'm definitely using Illusion C3CX's, C8's, 90% that I'm going to do 2 AE IB12AU's.

For Amps, I'm considering:

(2) Alpine PDX-V9's

OR

(2) Arc Audio XDI1200.6v2's

OR

(2) Alpine PDX-F6 (4 channels to C3CX's, second bridged to the C8's)
(1) Alpine PDX-M12 (subs)

OR

(2) Arc Audio XDI600.4v2
(1) Arc Audio XDI1100.1v2

OR

Mosconi Gladen One 1000.1
Mosconi Gladen One 250.2
Mosconi Gladen One 130.4

For processing:

Either a
Mosconi 6to8 Aerospace

OR

Mosconi 8to12 Aerospace

Can't decide if the ability to play 24/192 natively is worth the extra money,
since I doubt I could tell the difference...especially while driving. I don't need 12 channels. lol

Any input?

Jay

[beak81champ]

I actually like the idea of the all Mosconi option, just because. I don't think you can make the wrong choice with any equipment you have listed! You are going to have one super sweet system...

[Babs]

I agree Mosconi.


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[Glenn]

I'm a big fan of the second Arc combo, but all the listed equipment kicks some serious ass.

[JayinMI]

Someone suggested (2) PDX-V9's and a PDX-M12. Along with the 8to12. He suggested I might need the extra channels for rear fill in the future.
I had planned to experiment with rear fill, but I was going to do a MiniDSP piece that would allow me to do L-R R-L stuff.

Frankly, that setup would be sweet, but it's a little out of my budget. For now.

Jay

[JayinMI]

I actually like the idea of the all Mosconi option, just because.

I thought about doing an AS amp setup, but the amps are big enough that I'd have to lose my spare, and I don't want to do that since the car actually came with one.
I like the layout of the PDX amps because I can use stack kit hardware to suspend them from a welded steel rack suspended from the rear deck, all the controls face out, wiring wouldn't be visible.

The issue that has me leaning away from 2 V9's, is I'm worried getting the subs level matched would be tough, running one on the the sub channel of each amp.
Since there can be a pretty big difference in sub channel power from amp to amp.

But I think it would be a killer setup if I could get around that. I could always pre-plan to add the M12 later. Hmmm....

Now I'm thinking....

Jay

[Babs]

..suspend them from a welded steel rack suspended from the rear deck, all the controls face out, wiring wouldn't be visible.

The issue that has me leaning away from 2 V9's, is I'm worried getting the subs level matched would be tough, running one on the the sub channel of each amp.
Since there can be a pretty big difference in sub channel power from amp to amp.

But I think it would be a killer setup if I could get around that. I could always pre-plan to add the M12 later. Hmmm....

Now I'm thinking....

Jay

The rear deck idea is very cool.

I'm running left and right IB off two XD1000/5v2. If I measured output or voltage I might see some differences but you can tune for that.


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[JayinMI]

Yeah, I figured I could get it pretty close, and I'd probably give it a shot....

The last setup I posted about (2 V9's and an M12) Richard said I should do:

100W to the tweeters
200W to the mids
500W to the Midbasses
and the M12 on the subs (600 apiece)
and it leaves 2 channels to do rear fill.

I'm NOT building kicks, and 500W on C8s in my doors might result in some noticeable tactile feedback. lol

But I'm seriously considering doing the 8to12 and 2 V9's and leaving room for the M12 later.

Seriously.

Jay

[JayinMI]

So, I installed the Maestro SW a couple of weeks ago. None of the BT buttons worked. Posted up in the Idatatech FB group and most people were like "It should work."
Today, I got in there and did some testing. I wasn't getting anything on the wire that was supposed to be for the BT buttons...unless the car was off.

Long story short, I ended up finding the wire at the steering column, cutting it and running the button side up to the Maestro. I also unplugged the external BT module above the glovebox. Now my BT buttons work, and my car isn't constantly trying to pair with my phone.

Jay