2004 Toyota Sienna

[James Bang]

Dash pods wired up. Added a nut rivet to the a-pillar panel to screw the pods to.
Bought the rivet nut tool for this build and found a M6 screw in my hoarder stash to use.


One pic only. It was 1:00am by the time I wired up the amps and speakers to finally get some sound.
I now have 150hz and up available. Tweets need breaking in, but the midranges are definitely much better than they were: firing up from the dash without an enclosure.

My amps location is a little weird, so I'll save that for later, til I find a way to make it junkie worthy, though they're just an old Eclipse 36401 and Hifonics Zeus amps.

[James Bang]

So the cabin pressure vent that will be used to vent the sub for IB is 9 x 4.5" = 40.5 in². The sub's cone area is 130in²
So I have about 1/3 the cone area. I've been trying to search how much vent space you need to not cause any issues. I've read Patrick Bateman on diyma stating one can get away with 1/4 the cone area. Some say you should have the size of the cone area (won't happen). There doesn't seem to be definitive rule regarding this.

On a side note, I bought a sheet of birch plywood to build the box for the subs that won't be used.

[James Bang]

So according to Pssound, 1/2 the Sd minimum is needed for the IB vent to not have any negative effects.

https://youtu.be/sZjDnsoVm1w?si=yyJp...3cBKe&t=21m38s

[James Bang]

A little progress made on the sealed enclosures for the doors.
Some metal was cut to try and get as much air space as possible. Trying to balance getting air space, and the ease of building the enclosure. Full fiberglass would give the most air volume, but I am not up for all that glassing.
So I'm going half wood and half glass.

Ideally, I'd like 1 cuft for a Q of .7, but I'm estimating I'll get around 0.7 cuft.

1cuft would give an F3 of 63hz and 0.7cuft 73hz, so the enclosure size will decide if the midbass is HP'd at 63hz or 80hz.

Onto building: A template was made, but I had to trim a lot of it after this picture because it wouldn't let the door close.



Copied it to the other side... Because stereo, not mono



Metal has been cut behind the driver and the access hole. All to gain a whopping ~0.08cuft



After the cutting, structural integrity was degraded and this more narrow portion moves more than I want it to, 90 angle aluminum piece will be bolted to brace this section. It'll be on the backside, it's shown in the front just for the picture.



Two layers of 3/4" and it barely clears the window tract. This is the backside of the door enclosure's base. The middle layer will be just a frame and the other layer will be routed down to 1/2".

[chithead]

That's impressive right there. Nice progress!

[James Bang]

A little progress on the midbass enclosures: Some router work on the base to get as much airspace as I can.

Some grooves 1/4" deep. The slab is 3/4" birch plywood so some spots are now 1/2".



Routed out 1/4" on the bottom layer of those rectangles that go into the door toward the window tracts:



Middle layer cut like a frame for the depth:



Those cubbies glued and screwed on. Top pieces also added. They go up and under the door panel:





Looking up under the door panel as mentioned earlier.





Bottom panel cut. There was a little lip I wanted removed :



Raised the bottom plastic panel ½” up. The total height should barely clear the seat controls:







I'm using the bottom portion for shaping purposes, to make it look presentable. Hopefully, I'm not the best at the finishing part. I'm not sure how I even want to finish it. Paint? Wrap? Make it match the Dash Pods? Two tone door panel? Try to paint and match the OEM gray panel?

[James Bang]

I think I found another way to add some more air space before I wrap this sucker and start fiberglassing:

I can add more space by adding some wood and enclosing the red circled areas (below pics). The door panel has a little armrest which flips up to access a little plastic storage compartment. That compartment will be cut and shortened a whole lot to make more room for the enclosure instead. Therefore, some more cutting, gluing and screwing is needed. I might get ~.03cuft

[James Bang]

Added a little more air space.





Houston we have a problem; we can't fit the armrest back on without cutting the pocket.



I'll cut that sucker up soon and maybe just glue some enclosure carpet under it. It won't fit much after. Maybe a spare 9mm magazine.

Mounting rings need to be routed out and mounted next

[BigAl205]

Yeah, I'd probably own that van for years not even realizing a pocket was under there

[James Bang]

Yeah, I'd probably own that van for years not even realizing a pocket was under there

Small sacrifices for 63hz gains.