These might work with box and amp you have.
http://ddaudio.com/products/subwoofe...1000-series-2/
These might work with box and amp you have.
http://ddaudio.com/products/subwoofe...1000-series-2/
Two of these in parallel - 8 ohm svc
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subw...subwoofer.html
What did you think about the amp wire I asked about? A free posts ago? As far as easiest way to get switched 12 v
- 2-channel car amplifier
- 170 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (250 watts x 2 at 2 ohms)
- 500 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4 ohm stable in bridged mode)
- CEA-2006 compliant
- high-pass (12 dB per octave) and low-pass (24 dB per octave) filters variable from 50 to 200 Hz
- variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
- cooling fan
- MOSFET power supply
- speaker-level inputs with signal sensing turn-on
- preamp-level inputs and outputs
- fuse rating: 40A x 1
- 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
- 13-3/4"W x 2-1/4"H x 9-3/8"D
- warranty: 1 year
- Our 60-day money-back guarantee
- MFR # KAC-7204
Assuming you're feeding signal to amp via speaker-level outputs from head unit (?), you don't need it (by virtue of "signal sensing turn-on" via speaker-level inputs). It's not clear to me that this amp has signal-sensing turn-on via RCA inputs. If it were ever mentioned, I don't recall which amp inputs you'll be using.
If that's an after market stereo, insert a pic of the wiring harness that connects to the back of the radio. Looking for a blue wire with a black stripe.
Meh, it'll play.