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Thread: New need serious help

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    New need serious help

    Hey all!

    So, I'm interested in upgrading my car's current factory subwoofer. It's an extremely weak free air in my 2018 Honda Accord, with "premium" 450 watt 10-speaker system. I'm fine with the garbage door speakers at this point, I just want some dang bass.

    Anyway, I can't find anywhere online, from Honda (and I work at a dealership, nobody knows anything), or in the manuals that says what wattage or impedance this factory sub runs at. If I do the math it's at least 45 watts per channel, but I'm wondering if there's more directed toward the sub itself...? Help?

    I'm hoping that I can simply bypass it by unplugging it and, instead, plugging in an aftermarket enclosed sub. I found a Sound Ordinance B-17 and noticed that it requires very low power to function. I'm hoping that this could be a simple plug and play, but wanted to check first, to ensure.

    My thought is, it's already got a sub, so it must have its own amplified channel, I'm just upgrading the equipment, right?

    Would really love some help here. Thanks all!

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    Re: New need serious help

    Maybe I should've also asked if there's a way for me to test the wattage coming to my speaker?

    I'm pretty sure I've got a volt meter. Pretty sure I can find out the impedance that way right? Can it do watts, or can I figure out the wattage through some other measurement that the meter will read?

    I'm desperate, if you can't already tell. Lol

    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Owner BigAl205's Avatar
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    Re: New need serious help

    I had a Honda Element that had the factory sub. I don't know if they changed vendors, but back then the subs were dual voice coil 4-ohm, and the system used a balanced line signal. Here's a write-up I did years ago on another forum:

    Quote Originally Posted by BigAl205
    ...
    In car audio, radios normally put out 3 types of signal: speaker-level, unbalanced line level, and balanced line level.

    Most radios have a small built-in amplifier which you hook up to the speakers via the color-coded speaker wires. This is speaker-level output. If you wanted to hook it up to an external amplifier, and the radio had no RCA outputs, you would need one of two things...an amplifier which takes speaker-level input, or a line level converter to change the signal to line-level.

    Unbalanced line level is the RCA-style "preamp" signal which is typically used in car audio. It consists of a center conductor which carries the signal, and an outer shield which is usually a ground. The voltage of the signal is typically around 4 volts.

    Balanced line is the type of system used in the Element. It consists of a positive wire, which carries a signal, and a negative, which carries the same signal 180° out of phase. The advantage of this system is that any noise picked up by the lines is cancelled out by the two phases. The two signals are combined and are about 8 volts.

    When we try to mix aftermarket equipment with OEM equipment, we are mixing 4-volt signals with 8-volt signals. When we hook up an aftermarket headunit to the factory amp, we are sending a 4-volt signal to an amp that wants an 8-volt signal. Anybody who has replaced the radio like this probably noticed that you have to turn the volume up to be able to hear it, and even then it sounds kinda mushy with no real punch. The only way to remedy this is to install a balanced line driver before the amp, but it would be better to just replace the factory amp, altogether. There is no real problem with doing it this way and it has been done many times...it's just not perfect.

    Hooking up an aftermarket amp to the factory radio is where it gets tricky. Since the factory HU puts out 8 volts, some amps can't handle the input. A few amps are designed to take a balanced input, but you will have to do your homework to make sure. One option is to use a signal processor such as JL Audio's CleanSweep to tune the signal. Another option is to use a balun (pronounced 'baloon') to convert the signal. After doing some research, I found the PAC AOEM-HON20 which seems to fit the bill. http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28

    Another area that people seem to get confused is with the term "power antenna". They think that since the antenna doesn't move up and down, that it's not powered. This is incorrect. The EX, SC (and I believe the LX as well) has an amplified antenna. If you don't hook up the power antenna lead on the wiring harness, you will get poor reception...

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Re: New need serious help

    Okay, very interesting. I guess the answer isn't so simple and there are factors I'm not considering here, like voltage voice coils.

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  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: New need serious help

    So maybe a better question is, what do I need to know before I attempt to find a suitable plug and play subwoofer substitute?

    It sounds like ohms for sure, watts as well I'd guess, although I know it's technically impossible to damage a speaker by underpowering it. However can distortion, thus clipping, be caused by not having a matching ohm and or voltage input/output?

    Is there another solution I'm not thinking of? Is there some sort of converter I can get that would allow me to run whatever sub I want regardless the ohm and volt ratings from the head unit?

    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

  6. Back To Top    #6
    Noob slamd1's Avatar
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    Re: New need serious help

    Quote Originally Posted by JayDeep View Post
    So maybe a better question is, what do I need to know before I attempt to find a suitable plug and play subwoofer substitute?

    It sounds like ohms for sure, watts as well I'd guess, although I know it's technically impossible to damage a speaker by underpowering it. However can distortion, thus clipping, be caused by not having a matching ohm and or voltage input/output?

    Is there another solution I'm not thinking of? Is there some sort of converter I can get that would allow me to run whatever sub I want regardless the ohm and volt ratings from the head unit?

    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
    You could run the factory sub wires into an Audiocontrol LC2i and then use whatever equipment you want.
    Current System:

    Headunit: Clarion CZ702
    Highs/Mids: PPI S.65 Tweets, Crunch CS35 3.5 (crossed passively on high out of deck)
    Midbass: CT Sounds Meso Pro 6.5 (crossed actively using mid out on deck)
    Sub: Sundown Audio EV3 12 D2
    Amp 1: RF r250.4 - Highs/Mids
    Amp 2: Pioneer GM-D8601 Sub @ 1 ohm
    T line enclosre

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    Re: New need serious help

    Quote Originally Posted by slamd1 View Post
    You could run the factory sub wires into an Audiocontrol LC2i and then use whatever equipment you want.
    Okay, now we're talking, I'm going to have to look into this. Thank you so much for the suggestion.

    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

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    ~Paw~Paw})]<^>¥ Hic's Avatar
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    Re: New need serious help

    JayDeep,

    Clipping is caused by trying to get every last bit of power out of Amp. There are many forms of distortion
    The solution offered above may do what you need.
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    ~Paw~Paw})]<^>¥ Hic's Avatar
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    Re: New need serious help

    A 10 speaker system would require some type of balancing. To off-balance it (tub thump) , being a basshead may cost $$. The system ain't designed for dub step/hip-hop/country or low-lows.
    Last edited by Hic; 01-06-2019 at 08:00 AM.
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  10. Back To Top    #10
    ~Paw~Paw})]<^>¥ Hic's Avatar
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    Re: New need serious help

    A digital multimeter will measure volts, amps/resistance and knowing Ohms Law will allow you to calculate wattage, I.e.
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