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Thread: Frequency humps and dips

  1. Back To Top    #11
    Senior Member chefhow's Avatar
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    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    Harmonics can also play a role. If you have a "suck out" try boosting the octave above or below, and conversely if you have a hump that you cant cut enough to flatten it out try the octaves above or below and cut them to help with your issue.

  2. Back To Top    #12

    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    Quote Originally Posted by chefhow View Post
    Harmonics can also play a role. If you have a "suck out" try boosting the octave above or below, and conversely if you have a hump that you cant cut enough to flatten it out try the octaves above or below and cut them to help with your issue.
    It's difficult to fix a physical problem with an electrical solution

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    ~Paw~Paw})]<^>¥ Hic's Avatar
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    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    claydo,

    Any difference ?
    Viewing Smilies , you trying to access privileged system?¤Somewhere 0ut There¤}]

  4. Back To Top    #14
    Senior Member chefhow's Avatar
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    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulD View Post
    It's difficult to fix a physical problem with an electrical solution
    Difficult but not impossible. Another tool in the box is never a bad thing.

  5. Back To Top    #15
    Owner BigAl205's Avatar
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    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    Quote Originally Posted by chefhow View Post
    Another tool in the box is never a bad thing.
    That's what she said.



    Sorry, couldn't resist

  6. Back To Top    #16

    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    Sorry hic, forgot to report back on the matter....... yes, I played with some of my thick bath towels and had some surprising results.......I had been told before about the need of a dashmat so I started there first.....I think because of my mids and tweets being forward of the dash, there was no discernable changes with the dash padding......but, when I double draped the towels, and closed them in my side windows, it led to a total returned.of said mids and tweets......the result was a slightly sharper focus.....nice..since I knew that this wasn't going to stay I didn't work the tonality all the way through, bit it gave me a nice peek into what reflections were doing in my car......a lot.

  7. Back To Top    #17

    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    the top half of the interior is almost all glass, reflections are the name of the game

  8. Back To Top    #18
    Woobooster WOOSEY's Avatar
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    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    I can solve the reflections for about 50% by dropping my top and opening the windshields..

    Aiming is important too... Try to aim on axis, as soon as you want or must install off-axis I recommend to aim the drivers to the least reflective surface..

  9. Back To Top    #19
    Noob Fricasseekid's Avatar
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    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    That's why my drivers are aimed toward the roof behind the dome light. This way
    -they aren't very far off axis adjacent to the listening position
    -each speaker is close to the same degree off axis
    -the head liner minimizes reflections
    -what does get reflected reflects back toward the rear windshield and rear deck

    I also have my drivers set forward of the a-pillars (closer to the listeners) to minimize diffraction. I'm sure I am getting some diffraction and reflections off my dash though because my stage sounds a bit diffuse in certain areas. I have yet to address this but I'm hoping a dash mat will help.


    Sent from my Springfield XD with love!

  10. Back To Top    #20

    Re: Frequency humps and dips

    one of the simultaneous issues/saving graces, of a 4-way install is you can limit the amount of reflection issues.

    wide-bander and mid bass 2-way is stuck with that wide-bander's location limitations, one of the things I don't like that much about putting the wide-bander up in the A-pillars or dash.

    I like the door spot, just above the knees and it would figure that the width of image is best here, but stage is a little more lop-sided than kick panels.

    I can get used to the expansive image when I'm not listening to a compression driver system, which is another animal.

    I'll say it here again, (probably going to do a lot of repeating) in that the Aura MR series braxials, had a unique design.

    You had a known distance for the passive crossover to function from, but if you turned the entire speaker it put the tweeter's tilt on axis, or slightly near it.

    This has the benefit of mating the dispersion of the tweeter's beaming with the woofer's beaming, or basically, it was like aiming two flashlights. By turning the speaker, you could get both directivity patterns to coincide, or mesh at some point in the speaker's axis.

    This made for a more cohesive image, and even if you had the Aura emblem "cocked" a bit, it was an aesthetic price well paid for the sonic attribute of a matched output.

    OR, I didn't care that the speaker wasn't "squared" because the sound was what I was after.

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