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Thread: Sound deadening

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    Sound deadening

    Hello! New member, 1st post. I am about to install Polk db 6.5" in my pickup doors. I have to do a bit of work on the panels so I am lagging on the project but I was wondering how much sound deadening to do in the doors. Should we cover the entire inside of the car body sheet metal or focus on the shhet metal just below the upholstery?

    Also, how much do I have to be concerned about sealing it? It will be kinda sealed should I start using butyl to really seal it up?

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    DIYMA Janitor SkizeR's Avatar
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    Nick
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    New York
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    Jul 2013

    Re: Sound deadening

    http://www.resonixsoundsolutions.com...ce-information

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    Re: Sound deadening

    How much to use would depend on the overall structural integrity of the door and what deadener you're using. I went with about 90% coverage on the outer door skin only leaving impossible areas untreated. Probably 80% on the inner skin with some on the back side of the inner skin where I could. I used resonix squares from the site listed above and it's my favorite deadener I've used. I probably used about 10 squares (10sq ft) on the doors not counting the door card itselfI probably didn't need as much as I used, but Honda's doors sound like you're kicking an empty beer can across the ground and I'm going for best possible results and they are crazy solid and dead now. I used abs plastic to cover access holes in the door sealed with weatherstrip tape and deadened over it with resonix rectangles. It's about as sealed as it can possibly get. Check out the link above and the vehicle database on his site as well. Great info there.

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    Re: Sound deadening

    Wow! That's alot! I guess it is going to have to be a trial error. I can put some and see how bad it rattles. It's an old truck but there is not alot to it so maybe not as bad as the newer cars? Thanks for the insight.

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    Re: Sound deadening

    Quote Originally Posted by SkizeR View Post
    http://www.resonixsoundsolutions.com...ce-information

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    Dude! Great article! Thanks for the link. That helps alot. Perfect timing too.

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

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    DIYMA Janitor SkizeR's Avatar
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    Nick
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    New York
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    Jul 2013

    Re: Sound deadening

    Quote Originally Posted by 89mightymax View Post
    Dude! Great article! Thanks for the link. That helps alot. Perfect timing too.

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
    Of course, and thank you.

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    Noob Hemoglobin's Avatar
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Vehicle
    4Runner
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    9
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    Oct 2019

    Re: Sound deadening

    Kinda hard to follow up straight from the horse's mouth, but I'll throw out my recent build. I had my 4runner done from the floor up. Entire vehicle gutted, 100% coverage of the metal. I have no desire to touch the verticals of the truck again. It's done. It does help, but if you think you are going to make a common car a Bentley, no, but on to the parts that count. I did extra layers on the front doors. The only thing I will advise is, if you think you are going to get frisky, and really try to do the best you can do from the audio aspect, do bracing. I did not. I had the doors sealed, but did nothing for rigidity. Well, I'm lucky enough I can get 1/4" 4x8 sheets of HDPE or ABS, through a former job, for what most people buy 2x4 sheets. That said, I'm still taking everything apart and adding bracing now. If you can change your oil, you can brace the doors. I would just do it and save time later. Also, I'm buying the above mentioned resonix squares for the door cards as, at least in my situation, they more than warrant the expense. It's insane how much the cabin side of the door vibrates. This weekends project is actually you ditch the factory plastic grills and press out some metal grills with a little less restriction! Good luck and love the truck!

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    Noob JCsAudio's Avatar
    Real Name
    John
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    Massachusetts
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    See signature
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    656
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    Aug 2019

    Re: Sound deadening

    The ResoNix is good shit! I used to use Sound Deadener Showdown exclusively and ResoNix is a very good alternative.
    Mazda CX5 AF GB10, AF GB25, AF GB60, JL VX800/8i, AF GB12 sealed, Mmats M1400.1

    Ford F150
    AF GB10, AF GB25, JLC5, JL twk88/Pioneer D8604, Mosconi Pico, JBL Club 5501, Sundown SD3-10 ported @ 30 Hz

    Sienna
    AF GB15, Audiofrog GS690, JL twk88/Pioneer D9500F, JBL GTX500, Alpine SWS10 ported @ 31 Hz

    https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5608901






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    Noob LBaudio's Avatar
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    Europe/Slovenia
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    Alfa Romeo GT
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    Oct 2019

    Re: Sound deadening

    I read this article and found the thing that bother me the most and that is that lazy "installers" and "youtube pretendinstallers" put damping material on cables to hold them down,..... dont ask where I would put damping material to such engeneers.....lol

    I persinally use multyple layers of damping material, and I usually combine it with additional very thick layer of BRAX ExVibration paste + sound bariere. Sometimes I use ALU profiles glued to door metal and then damping material over it,...works like a charm, this technique was used by DLS team competitors and many others that compete in EU-EMMA SQ
    FOR FAST MOVING CONCERTS
    Team LBaudio
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    EMMA SLO head

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Re: Sound deadening

    I deadened the doors in my old car (a 2012 Impala) and I just went over them with Noico deadener (inside and outside door skins) and then Noico liner (closed cell foam) over top of it on the inside skin. My problem, since I really didn't do things 100% properly (was my first time), is that if I ever need door access to replace a window regulator or lock actuator, I'm going to have to rip it open - an then somehow "patch" it when done.

    I'm guessing that when it's done right, the bigger holes in the door skin are covered with some sort of PVC (or whatever material they use) that is secured with some sort of removable fastener, so that you can just remove the panel for access and then re-install it when done (with maybe some butyl rope around where it meets with the door or something)?

    Just curious how most people handle this, in order to allow for internal door access if/when needed.

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