A "Club" on steering wheel and some sort of kill switch and do thieves prefer ugly or pretty, in your experience ?
Last edited by Hic; 02-05-2018 at 08:56 AM.
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I'd start with the Free Option and decide if the steering wheel controls are that missed. If they are, I'd look more into the Low Cost or Medium Cost Option. If the steering wheel controls turn out not to be a deal breaker, I'd go with the Higher Cost Option and think about selling the other amplifiers to get the Higher Cost Option closer to the Medium Cost Option price.
I got home today and some toys were waiting for me.
What we have here is a couple motorized linear 10K pots, an ethernet breakout board, and a mini DIN to ethernet adaptor.
So here is the plan: I'll pick up a Helix P Six and use these parts to build my remote control. I'll gut the factory radio, and put the pots in place of it's volume and tune knobs, and put the voltage gauge behind the window on the factory radio.
But that's not all!
With this cute little Arduino board, I should be able to read the steering wheel controls, and run the motors on the pots. This gets me the ideal setup for this car: Small lightweight system, great sounding, retain the (added)factory controls, and keep the non-flashy looks.
I'm home for a month, hopefully that's enough time to get the steering wheel buttons working!
Simply Awesome !
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I'm home for a few days, and I'm taking my car on the next work trip. If I'm quick I can have the new setup running for the trip, giving me lots of time to tune it.
A mock up of the new "headunit" setup:
I will eventually tint the window so only the clipping lights show though. I need to glue the old buttons in, and add the new volume knob.
From the back:
I'm ditching the old digital setup out of the phone. I was using a lightning to to HDMI adaptor, and HDMI audio de-embedder, then digital coax to the APL1. The biggest drawback to that setup is the super slow phone charging because a sinle USB cable has to split power between the phone and HDMI adapter.
Now I'm using an aptX Bluetooth receiver that has an optical output. The optical will go straight into the APL1. By going bluetooth that leaves the charging port on my phone to do just that, charge, so it should charge much faster. Also, by having just one device in front of the APL1, it really cleans up the wiring.
I was planning to us the Helix P Six DSP, but before I got around to ordering one, JL came out with the VXi line, my 800/8 arrived a couple days ago:
I've already installed it:
The install pics are terrible, and I couldn't keep the dead grass from blowing into the car while working, so it looks dirty as hell. Better pics will be coming. Overall, the install is much cleaner than with the old Slash 300/4, and the VXi fits MUCH better. Also, now that the AG200 is gone, the driver seat goes all the way back again.
I'm going optical from the APL1 to the VXi, making cabling MUCH simpler. Right now I'm running the mids and tweeters off the first 4 channels, and when I add subs I'll bridge the last 4 channels to them.
At the moment I'm waiting on some TOSLINK 90º adapters and a 90º USB B cable to arrive so I can toss the new "headunit" in.
Today I removed the board from the APL1 and drilled some holes in the side of it's case to mount it to the cage of the factory radio.
Then I cabled everything up:
What you can't really see is the power controller for my dash cam, and the USB power port.
I mounted the volume control, and glued the factory buttons in place:
I've lost a button, but I'm sure it'll turn up soon enough.
Also, I used a DB25 connector to loop the analog Aux outputs from the amp back into the analog inputs:
This gets me an extra 10 bands of parametric EQ per side.
that is some amazing stuff you are doing there. how did you squeeze out the extra bands of the peq?
He went out and back in cadaver.
10 bands auxilary out, 10 bands auxilary in. Looping.
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What Hic said. Here is a screenshot of my routing: