Captains Log -2013 Mazdaspeed3

[captainobvious]

It may be able to...remains to be seen. The frequency response graphs from B&G show a big drop at 10K in the horizontal plane, and is very sensitive vertically as well. I'm sure with plenty of EQ it could be done, but I have the NEO3's as well and was able to integrate them into the design so I figured why not? If anything, it should allow me to use a lower crossover point on the neo8S and try to keep them out of the range where they get a little unruly

Here's the data sheet:

http://meniscusaudio.com/images/NEO8...eet%20Rev1.pdf



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[Glenn]

Can't wait to hear how these sound. I am really curious how they are going to do with feet and legs in the way.

It may be able to...remains to be seen. The frequency response graphs from B&G show a big drop at 10K in the horizontal plane, and is very sensitive vertically as well. I'm sure with plenty of EQ it could be done, but I have the NEO3's as well and was able to integrate them into the design so I figured why not? If anything, it should allow me to use a lower crossover point on the neo8S and try to keep them out of the range where they get a little unruly

Here's the data sheet:

http://meniscusaudio.com/images/NEO8...eet%20Rev1.pdf



.

[captainobvious]

I used some of the Butyl Rope from Don's SDS site to provide a good seal and some additional dampening between the midbass pods and the sheet metal. Then, I pre-drilled osme holes and used sheet metal screws to secure the pods to the metal. You can see the butyl squeezed through in some areas. It forms a nice seal there. I also ran the speaker wires from the enclosures to the termination point and added a screw down for the midrange pods to secure them. Pics are a little out of order, but you get the idea.

[captainobvious]

Pics help....

[captainobvious]

Also unseen in these pics- I put a layer of open cell foam on the floor of the spare tire well under the box and a layer on the bottom of the box.









Template for the single piece...


















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[captainobvious]

The box being made is to house a JL 13TW5 sub. JL recommends a 0.8 cu ft enclosure for this driver which gives a QTC of 0.94. The internal volume of this enclosure is 0.958 and the sub only displaces about 0.05 cubic feet so I'll net about 0.91 cubic feet internal airspace and will lower the overall system Q a bit. The hole cut in the bottom is to allow the spare tire mount to pass through. I will be using this factory mounting point to secure the sub box/structure and will use another wood piece to cover and seal this hole. The baffle size is 16x18 so I still have room to upsize to the 15" AE down the road if I decide I want to go that route.

[captainobvious]

Still working on putting the trunk together, piece by piece. I screwed in thick gauge metal supports to attach the base floor piece to the sub enclosure. (The enclosure will be bolted to the factory spare tire mount to secure the whole piece). I also used more ensolite foam to ensure this structure is resonance free and decoupled from the metal floor. I cutout a sub baffle and mounted that as well. You'll notice that I used ensolite on the back of the baffle as well. I could have used standard wood glue or butyl, but I want this piece to be removable in case I want to mount a different driver in the box at some point. 28 wood screws lock the baffle in place so it's not going anywhere
Another thing you'll notice (and I'm surprised noone mentioned it yet) is that the sub box is offset quite a bit to the right side of the trunk area. The reason for that is that the actual spare tire well is shifted to the right side of the vehicle. In order to keep the end result looking as symmetrical as possible, I decided to mount the sub with as much offset to the left as I could afford. In the picture, you'll see 2 amps mocked up. While the sub box is quite obviously closer to the right amp, the distance from the center of the sub to either amp (left or right) remains very consistent. The subwoofer sits about 1.5" higher than the amps, and the distribution block is even shorter. I want all three to look like they are on basically the same plane visually once the cover piece is on, so I'm raising the amps and distro to produce that effect. I will also use ensolite on the mount for the subs to ensure their chassis' are decoupled from and vibrations of the subwoofer enclosure. These amps are huge so it's going to be a tight squeeze. I should have just enough clearance for power/speaker connections on the far end and rca's on the near end. I wish these had the same input/output layout as the DC Ref series where they are all on the long side.

[claydo]

Coming along nicely capn. , great progress!

[captainobvious]

Thanks Clay! Seeing as how this meet is coming up quickly on me, I need to hustle

I'll be working on this more a few hours here and there over the course of this week (Can really only do anything in the evenings after the normal day job).

[SublimeZ]

Looking good

Another thing you'll notice (and I'm surprised noone mentioned it yet) is that the sub box is offset quite a bit to the right side of the trunk area. The reason for that is that the actual spare tire well is shifted to the right side of the vehicle. In order to keep the end result looking as symmetrical as possible, I decided to mount the sub with as much offset to the left as I could afford.

Why can't they center the spare well? :hmmmm: It about made me crazy trying to get my subs centered in trunk http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r...O/DSCN1134.jpg