My "not fancy" just for fun build

[wheelieking71]

Just about got this low-buck system locked down.
There is also a nostalgia factor going on as one of the amps is the first 12v amp I ever owned.
I happened to stumble on one dirt cheap, and when I saw it, it reminded me of good times, and what car-audio used to be for me.
So, I am hoping playing with some toys from my youth will bring a fun aspect to this.

Here is the tentative front-stage power:



A proton D275 was my first amp. So, that will be the fun, nostalgic part. Never ran a D230. But, I am sure it will do just fine on tweeter duty.
I am going to send these off for a refurb/tune-up. That expense doesn't really fit the budget-theme.
But, I picked these up for pennies. And lets face it. They are 27years old. The thermal paste is dry as a bone. As some of the electrolytic caps are as well, I am sure.
My guy only charges about $35 per amp (plus parts) anyways. So, its still pretty cheap power.
Now, the D275 is a special kind of monster. Obviously, its rated at 75watts per channel. But, I remember reading back in the day, that this thing is capable of stupid power.
Something like 350watts per channel! And, power doesn't really suffer at higher impedance. Which is good because I have 8ohm drivers slated for mids.

AURA NS6's to be exact:



I have a pair of VIFA ring-radiators sitting there (obviously). And I am pretty sure I am going to start out trying them first.
But, tweets are up in the air before I have tried them all. I have about 6 options on hand.

Now, sub power. Again, I have an option.
I can use this Crossfire CFA602:



Or, I also have this MMATS LM2125:



I am leaning heavily towards the Crossfire. Couple reasons. It too is kind of nostalgic. I used one for the first system I ever built my stepson. It was a good time for us.
And, it is a straight-up beast. They do 600watts at 4ohms easy. I am a high-impedance guy. I want my power at 4 or 8 ohms. not 1 or 2.

I could use the MMATS as well. But, I kinda have a different project on the back-burner I want to use it for. For aesthetic reasons. The nickel plating matches the motor on a Diyma R12 really well.
I want to build a flashy industrial looking powered sub for my office at the shop with them. So, I am pretty sure I will be going Crossfire for sub power duty.

The 701 is on its way to handle processing. That only leaves me to decide on a sub. Really want a 15" in a center console. But, I did some measuring today. Not sure I can pull it off.
I am going to hold off ordering a sub until I pull the middle seat, and can get some better measurements, or even mock something up.

[chad]

I use the NS6 in conjunction with the same tweets and really like it.

[wheelieking71]

I use the NS6 in conjunction with the same tweets and really like it.

How have the cones of the AURAs held up in your doors Chad? I know moisture is an even bigger deal for you, than me.
You have had those in there for years now. If you don't have a problem, I need to quit worrying about it! LOL
I actually chose these because I remember reading someplace that you were pretty happy with them.
I have had them for years. Picked them up when PE was blowing them out.
Kinda forgot they were even there actually, until I decided I wanted to do this as cheap as possible, and started digging to see what I already had.
I actually have several sets, LOL.

Where do you cross between the AURAs and Vifas?

My initial plans are AURAs in the stock door location. Tweets in the stock dash location. Which is outer corners firing straight up at windshield.

[chad]

They have held up fine, I do recommend diluting white glue and painting the edges of the paper gasket, not the top, just the edges. They tend to power compress before they bottom. I think I have mine crossed form 80-2.5 ish and the tweets at 3.15. the left side aura has a shallower LPF than the right due to the axis of the driver.

If you are really freaked out about moisture you can scotchguard the cones. The civic windows do not leak at all though.

[cadaver]

all that looks great

[wheelieking71]

Well, the "budget" aspect of this just snowballed right out the window!



Amps have changed up a little bit as well. Somebody caught wind I had a clean set of Protons, and doubled my $$$ for me!
Will update soon with what they get replaced with. I have an ADCOM 4302 that will probably find its way to tweeter duty.
And, Picked up another Crossfire CFA602 for pennies. So it will probably end up two Crossfire CFA602's and the ADCOM.

[gckless]

Well, the "budget" aspect of this just snowballed right out the window!

Don't they all?

[wheelieking71]

I am all over the place with this. Swapping equipment around like JAX!

I shouldn't even mention amps because, well its obvious I have a problem, LOL.

But, the good weather is here, and I want to get going on this.
Been doing a lot of silent driving lately, which is nice after a long noisy day in the shop.
But, mornings/weekends, I miss my tunes. And so does the wife.
So, there were a few small pieces holding me back from starting.
First step is run wires/cables. I had no circuit protection (that I wanted to use) for the main power at the batt. Handled:



Next is the doors. The doors in this rig let an insane amount of road-noise in. So I want to treat them properly. I have never tried MLV, but it seems to be the best method.
And, Don S. seems to be the best source. Handled:



My drivers door panel has seen better days. Its not completely chowdered and/or garbage.
But, it does have a few broken clips on the back-side. A blown out screw hole. And the vinyl around the switch panel is lifting and I can't get it to lay back down.
I am on a lucky streak! Found a like new set for dirt-cheap! Handled:



I have also gone the direction of big-ass amps. For $$$ reasons mostly. But, where does one put big-ass amps in a pick-up truck? Under the rear seat.
Well, I had accumulated quite a lot of stuff under there that any normal guy that uses his truck like a truck would.
I had talked about a fuel-tank/tool-box earlier in the thread. Kinda been watching Craigslist for one. And, the lucky streak continues!
Bing! one pops up for $150! I go check it out armed with a flash-light, mirror, and tape-measure. Inside is clean as a whistle! Didn't need to measure, guy helped me test fit in my truck.
When it fit like a glove, we just left it sit there. I handed him the money, and went on my way. So, get stuff out from under back seat? Handled:





Okay, now I have 95% of what I need to get going. All road-blocks are handled. Time to get some tunes rolling. Hoping to have a more audio focused update real soon!

[wheelieking71]

So, I am thinking lately (I know, that's the worst thing I could do!) And, I am half tempted to try a 4-way set-up for this build. And a very different one at that.
I kind of like the idea of no drivers in the doors. Especially large ones. I refuse to cut sheet-metal for the purpose of a car-stereo. I may drill a hole here and there. But, that is the extent of cutting that will happen.
So, how to get mid-bass up front? Floors and kicks are out (not cutting sheet-metal, big clumsy feet).
What about extending the center console box as far forward as possible, and having each mid-bass driver fire sideways (towards the doors, center out).
Is that a bad idea? I sat in a BMW once that has mid-bass under the front seats, and it was half decent. I can't help but wonder if center firing out would work.
It sure would make getting 10"s up front easy, and simplify the build as well! At what frequency do we really start to be able to localize?

[pocket5s]

stereo separation in a car happens around 125hz-150hz. so if the driver is playing that and above, your stage will most likely be compressed to the center. depending on the width of your cabin, around 200hz or so the wavelengths will be smaller than the cabin and you'll probably localize the driver more in that location.

having said that, never know until you experiment with it