Moron here, wondering if I can be enlightened

Hi, I have a question. I'm a complete noob when it comes to car audio. I bought a car that was already wired and had a sub, an amp and a eq unit (I think that's what it is). The problem is, the sub was old and moved on to a better place recently. So, I bought another sub. A 1000 watt, 2ohm kicker from best buy. Now, my old sub was a 12inch 4ohm Kenwood. I'm not sure if this is the problem itself, seeing as the impedance of the Kenwood is higher than the kicker. Maybe my system is set up that way. I'm not sure. Anyway, I wired up the Kicker. I had to cut the wires because the kicker needs open wires to hook up and the wires were set up with these "boot's", if that's what they're called, to hook up to my old Kenwood. I rewired, checked to make sure they were set up properly, and hooked them up. No sound. Rewired again. No sound. And again with no sound. So I'm guessing it has something to do with the impedance of the woofer, but that's just a shot in the dark coming from me. Any help with this? I'd appreciate any feedback. Thank you in advance.

Edit: Just to clarify what I have as far as amps and stuff go, I have a American Pro Bass Machine that's 600watts. The eq unit I can't remember off the top of my head. And a Kenwood deck, if that helps any.

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Originally Posted by Hollow

the sub was old and moved on to a better place recently.

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Did you test it, or just assume it was sub when bass stopped?

I tested it the only way I knew how. It had to be pushed in to work. Sometimes it would work perfectly when I pushed it in but eventually it would just stop.

amp model number?

Couldn’t find much info on that amp, but if it’s the same as this eBay amp, it is not rated to be bridged to a 2 ohm sub.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Pr...-/362407062559

TomT

I can post some pictures tomorrow of the amp. Where I am, it's almost midnight. Lol I don't have the model number off the top of my head.

And nope, that's not the one. I'm guessing what I have is pretty old. It's a small, red one but that's all I know.

like this? https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/4GAAA...E0F/s-l640.jpg

if so, on rca end there is a light for power and one for protection. note if one or both are lit when system is turned on

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/cv4AA...E0N/s-l500.jpg

With a few quick Google searches just using the brand name of the amp and wattage listed, you may be dealing with a 2-channel amplifier. If that is the case a 2-oh subwoofer's impedance will be too low for that amp to function when bridged, as I assume it was when running a 4-ohm subwoofer. Is your Kicker a single 2-ohm, subwoofer or dual 2-ohm subwoofer? Model numbers for both amp and sub will help immensely.

It's the same model but it is a 2 channel amp. I'm not sure if it has a protection light, but I know for sure that the power light was on.

And you're right, I have a 2 channel amp that was running a 4 ohm subwoofer.

The model number for the amp is V.5.1222. I think, that's what was on the face of the amp.

The model number for the sub woofer, I believe, is 43CWR122. That's just what's on the box. But it is a CompR 12inch Kicker. All I know is that it says 2 ohm on the magnet.

Edit: If necessary, I can post pictures of both.

I made a mistake. The amp's model number is V.S.1222. My bad, read it wrong.

Can't find much info on that amp (it's V.S.-1222) other than made 04-07. But it won't work with that sub. So, you can get a 4 ohm sub (or DVC 2 ohm) or swap amps. If it was me, would order something like this and be done https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-PN1.650D.html

Ok. Then I should ask, since I can take this sub back whenever and get my money back, if just getting another amp would be the best route? I don't really want to spend 100 bucks on an amp and install it knowing I could have saved some money and just gotten a replacement sub. Is there perks to having a amp that can run at an 2 and 4 impedance? Are 4ohm subs just not a thing now a days and just getting the amp would be a more "future proof" investment?

Try connecting the sub to one set of speaker terminals on the amp, instead of bridging it, and see what happens.

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Originally Posted by papacueball

Try connecting the sub to one set of speaker terminals on the amp, instead of bridging it, and see what happens.

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May have a bridged switch you have to flip to off

Ok. I'll give that a try in the morning.

Seemed like that got it to work! It doesn't hit as hard as my old kenwood but it definitely sounds good. Does that have something to do with it not being bridged anymore?

Yep. It's only getting about half the power.

So that's why, ok. Thanks for all the replies, guys! When the time come's, I'll probably just buy another amp. Thanks again!

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Originally Posted by Hollow

Ok. Then I should ask, since I can take this sub back whenever and get my money back, if just getting another amp would be the best route? I don't really want to spend 100 bucks on an amp and install it knowing I could have saved some money and just gotten a replacement sub. Is there perks to having a amp that can run at an 2 and 4 impedance? Are 4ohm subs just not a thing now a days and just getting the amp would be a more "future proof" investment?

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yes i think that