Need Advice from people smarter than me, new car new stereo.

Hey, the more i read everywhere the more i get confused. I am starting a new build in a 2016 Ford flex SE. I have never installed anything in a ford have always had Chevy. Last 2 cars were 2012 Camaro and 2012 Cruze both had a LOC and subs only. 2010 Colorado With clarion flip screen and pionners 2ways in doors on 250wX2 amp 2 kenwood 12s on phoenix gold amp 1000rms.

What i have to start with.
2 12 Pioneer Champion series pro DVC 4ohm 3500 max 1000 rms, parallel with a hifonics brz2100.1d ran @ 1ohm. in a qbomb XL box
Lightning audio b4.320.4 55wX4 @ 4ohm, 80wX4 @ 2ohm. (will change in the future)

I plan on getting a Audiocontrol DM-608 first then door speakers. I want to leave rear door functional for passengers. I think i would be better running the front components active since i will be spending the money on the DSP. I am not going for anything amazing just something that sounds good. Is it worth running active or running passive and doing the rear doors with new 2 ways and powering all 4? Door speakers also have depth mounting issue i think can be solved with adaptors or rings just can't go to big in front with mid driver. Also not sure about speakers. I want to go with 6.5 fronts over stock 6x8 for better mid bass. I do not know about speaker brands have not kept up want good mid bass looked at morel or hertz. I have to keep a reasonable budget or stretch out the build lol.

What headunit do you have? Switching to a smaller speaker isn't going to help you with midbass, and getting 6.5's in there will be difficult without doing any cutting. I suggest these https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSS...68.html?tp=106. I helped on of my co-workers install some a while back and I was rather impressed with it just running off radio power. Since you will have a DSP, I would only hook the amp up to the fronts and run active, run the rears off radio power, and keep it faded fully to the font whenever you are riding without rear passengers.

Using factory head unit with dsp. This is where i get confused alot of threads i have read say a 6.5 will put out better sound then a 6x8 and that there are more options with the 6.5. The speakers have a plastic piece that mount then off the door a decebt distance.

I'm not too smart but I will give it a crack

Midbass volume will largely be determined cone area, assuming everything else is about the same. Oval speakers will have different dispersion patterns on the long and short sides.
You will want to set the new speakers on a ring that pushes it out as closely to the factory speakers as possible. Fastrings also help with door panel vibrations.

PaulD, this is from March , he may have found a way to deal with it.

His last activity was in April ?

I am not sure if you get more output from 6.5's or 6x8's, but the one thing that everyone seems to be missing here is if you want more output from whatever size speaker you put in, make sure you do a proper sound deadening. If you don't do that, whatever you put in will not sound nearly as impressive as it could be if you properly deaden the doors.

I put in some Morel Tempo Ultra 602 6.5" components that replaced some Infinity Kappas. When I did, I deadened the doors, as well. The improvement is sound was substantial. I did not have a sub at the time and the sound I got was like I did have a sub. The Tempo Ultras are an extraordinary speakers with super smooth tweets, but it was the bass response that really impressed...and deadening the doors get almost as much the reason why as the drivers.

If you don't deaden the doors, you will be wasting you time and money. Proper sound deadening is one of the more important upgrades in improving SQ and one of the more least expensive, as well.