https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3EXuHlBy4M
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saw this on diyma...
deadener can only do so much to stop vibration. bracing the panel is really the one method people should invest time in, imo.
What's a good material to use to brace a panel and how do you go about doing that?
funny, I was just browsing this over there. That door turned out real nice.
I guess a side benefit of converting your door into a box is structural stiffening?
That tessa (sp?) tape is a cool product.
Wooden dowels make since I need to do something to remove the 3 millimeters of X-max on my door card. :hmm:
Best takeaway for me was sealing air gaps and use of plastic and rivnuts.
While a door even well sealed I might guess models about like a flexy funky aperiodic chamber, I imagine there's really only so much you can do and still get a door card back on.
But I appreciate the continuing showing off that makes me want a router more and more.
My problem is the Subaru door panels. The door card actually pushes into the access panels. Found this out after sealing up our Forester doors, and then trying to put the panel back on. Yeah...
hmmm... you could fiberglass some access hole covers that sink into the access holes a bit deeper than the door panels. might even be kinda easy if you could just use the door cards for the moldQuote:
Originally Posted by chithead
Buy a different car :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by chithead
Haha kidding aside, thank you for sharing this here.
Thank you for all the wonderful ideas and tips and tutorials in your videos!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by caraudiofab
No problemo
Haha.. Given up for now. Gotta find a source for ABS or similar sheet from a vendor who doesn't want one arm and first born for a sheet. I would like to stay plastic.
But yes, much to fill in..
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...2CEB8BC8_1.jpg
So for now I've at least got my original CCD and MLV layer over the whole mess. :)
A bit extreme, but, here is another technique.
(video) Houston, we have a problem:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-58-00_943.mp4
(video) Here is how a hill-jack cures panel flex:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-17-17_796.mp4
Pics:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3914434250.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3914284682.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3912891350.jpg
I was dumbfounded at how much newer everything about that truck felt after that mod. It literally transformed the entire truck. It felt brand new.
So I won't get to this in time for the NCSQ meet, but I have an idea on this for the single large non-flat gaping hole in my doors allowing all that midbass energy to be stopped only by a CCF and thick Sounddeadenershowdown layer of MLV.
I'm considering and wonder if anyone's seen this... Why not a layer of fiberglass? Good thick layered up "plate" that fits well behind that MLV layer, deadened with CLD, and rivnuted to the door?
Naysayers have said laying up glass vertically you'll run into a huge challenge with gravity working against you. Curious has any of you old pro's seen it done? I think if I park the car securely on the downhill portion of my driveway, gravity won't be such the issue.
Just thought I'd throw this up the flagpole and see who salutes.
Yes this has been done numerous times. I have seen people build a "backer plate" out of blue tape and then add fiberglass and mat to fill in the hole.
If I could remember there is a build log on DEEMA that shows it. No idea which one it is because it was probably 2010 that I saw it.
That's cool.. I'll search. Would love to know how effective it would be. I suspect if enough contour can be shaped into the plate for strength, one would think it would be equally as strong as the ABS sheet Mark did in the op post vid, while sealing even better because it's a mirror mold of the the flanged opening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Notloudenuf
Any reason the door could not be removed and laid on supports , (saw horses) , and worked on in a horizontal position ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Babs
Only reason I could think of is because pulling the door is something I've never done and that scares the crap out of me! LOL! But I guess yeah that could be done. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Just lay the car on its side
I've been thinking about easier ways to seal off these non-flat holes in inner door skins.
I've seen many use CLD with sheet metal & screws over it but it's tough to get the sheet metal to seal on the edges if the surface is not flat.
Maybe this has been done before.... But what if you used a thick medium density CCF sheet, say 1-2" thick, and cut it big enough to overlap the hole. Then screw the sheet metal over it in order to sandwich the CCF tight up against the CLD and put positive pressure on it. The foam would take up the voids created by the uneven surface. This might even work without CLD if you want to make removal easier....
Just some thoughts I thought I would stick here :nuts:
I've used galvanized sheet metal and self-tapping screws covered in CLD and filled any gaps with duct seal
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Ben...t-Seal/4595233
seems like someone with a 3-D scanner could create files of the doors of most popular vehicles, then you take the file/ download to your local library/3-D printer space, and voila....
for a small fee and the cost of a spool of resin one could have custom fitted door seal panels, probably would be better to engineer into the panel some structural rigidity, like honeycomb or whatever, then let the 3-D printer do all that hard work, leaving lightweight panels with bracing built-in, ready for install with screw holes already part of the piece.
might be a bit too fancy for shoring up door work, mid bass isn't that important anyway... if no one is going to see it anyway.
From my log finally attempting a good job at sealing.. I used .020 aluminum sheet, full-coverage with CLD, to fill the hole what I could and CCF where it wasn't terribly feasible over the window motor. Inside was treated with layer of moisture-covered Owens Corning 703. CLD coverage over every hole that could be covered also. Basically the window slit and where doorcard attachment pin holes are, are the only unsealed areas. A CCF and MLV layer between the card and door metal, along with existing CLD on door metal remained. Then insulation actually in the voids of the door card itself, as well as FAST rings round the driver. Easily the single best thing I've done this year in terms of improving speaker response. Flat out worked. Fixed huge phase-related voids from backwave interference etc. I can't speak highly enough of a good job sealing a door.
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NICE JOB ! :nod:
Either multiples of smaller drivers or two big uns [ 10's / 12's ] ought to put down some mid-bass !